You may want to check again. The B500 doesn't have a viewfinder at all -- optical or electronic.

Another alternative is to find a used one from a reputable reseller, such as this Canon G10 from Robert's Camera for $101.

Unfortunately the market has chosen to go a different direction, but ...

There might be another approach in your case. The director of the "Santa Fe Photographic Workshops" gave a talk a few years ago at our local camera club and he described, as part of the talk, how he came up with a novel (to me) idea. He taught himself to "hip shoot" his camera. He taught himself to be able to eye-ball the field of view and point his camera while holding it at chest level so that he could take pictures without ever looking at the camera. It took practice, but he eventually got very good at it.

Are you married to optical viewfinders? Why won't an EVF work for you?

I think earlier responses more-or-less answered this, but I'll add that you need to remember we see light logarithmically, not linearly, and as pointed out, 18% gray means 18% white, not 50%, so:

18% : 0 stop - middle point
36% : +1 stop
72% : +2 stops
100% : +2 1/2 stops

and going down:

18% : 0 stop - middle point
9% : -1 stop
4.5% : -2 stops
2.25% : -3 stops

So if you look at it as 'stops' rather than as a linear scale, 18% is pretty close to the middle of the brightness perception scale with about 2 1/2 to 3 stops on each side.

[As I understand it, originally the middle gray cards were closer to something like 12.9% which would have centered it a little better, but somewhere, and maybe someone here knows the history of why, the middle gray "convention" got pushed up to 18%.]

Does that clear up the mystery a little?

I also have a R2000 and have had to deal with clogged heads a few times. It's not hard to deal with.

Turn on the printer then pull the power cord so the head is not locked and move it away from the parking area. Fold up a paper towel to dimensions of the parking area, then spray it with Windex to make it fairly moist. Position the soaked towel in the parking area and push the head so it sits over the towel and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. Move the head away and the towel should be saturated with ink. Remove it and throw it away. Repeat a few more times with fresh paper towels. Try printing at this point. If it's still clogged, repeat the towel exercise above.

It works pretty well, and you'll get some idea of how much excess ink gets thrown around. You'll likely appreciate that it was probably a good thing to got through this cleaning even if it weren't clogged.

If you are only looking for a finger-press remote, I agree completely with MT Shooter that the RFN-4s at Amazon is the way to go. It's reliable, small and most importantly doesn't need the hotshoe which is almost always holding a flash or flash controller when I want to use the remote.

I've been using Godox flashes and strobes for several years now, and love them from the little TT350 up to the AD600s. I have two V860IIs that I like a lot and use quite often, but to me this is a no-brainer. For your situation, absolutely the AD200s. They have more power and flexibility in roughly the same footprint. The only drawback I can think of is that it uses a different battery than the V8xx series in case you planned on using both.

If you want more light, remove the grid. If you have an extra diffusion sheet inside, remove that too.

Does it work as expected if you press the shutter button directly rather than using the mc-30 cable release?

If you're a Canon shooter, did you consider the EOS R?

I must not understand your question. Is this a simple problem of just raising the contrast? Just go into levels, raise the black point to make the black ink solid, drop the white point to turn all the gray white, and adjust the mid point to taste. Or do the same with curves, or brightness and contrast. If you want to further bring out the text, sharpen it.

This is just too simple, so I must not understand what you are asking.

Not a big deal, but just so you know,



It has a 1" sensor which is smaller than an APS-C sensor. Smaller even than a 4/3rds sensor. That is, BTW, why it is called Nikon 1.



The 1" sensor has a 2.7 crop factor, so a 10-100mm lens has a 35mm equivalent of a 27-270mm. (The APS-C crop factor is 1.5) [I guess the 4 in 47 was a typo]

Things like focus and ergonomics are important to me, and I would guess to others.

I recommend sticking with your A6000 until you are can justify an intermediate level DSLR such as the Nikon D7200 or Canon 80D. Entry level DSLRs are missing important features such as focus fine tune.

Consider buying used. The price of a used or refurbished D7200 is close to the price of a new D5600, but the D7200 is a *much* better camera. You might even find a used or refurbished D7100 for even more savings.