scg3

I have a Godox V860II shoe-mount and like it because of its fast recycle without needing an external power pack. I also like its potential for multiple flash and was thinking of buying two more plus the Pro-C trigger but what I've heard about the Godox AD200 makes me wonder if it might be the wiser choice since it offers a line of light control accessories. I have two questions: First, how much punch does the AD200 have compared to the B860II? Second, how would the AD200 compare to my old Alienbees 320 watt-second B800? The idea of swapping out this decade-old-plus old gear for a smaller, self-contained TTL-exposing unit like the AD200 is obviously attractive but am I comparing apples to oranges? As a photojournalist, I like to travel light but not foolishly.

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

The AD200 is rated at 200 Ws, beyond that I can't help.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I’d post this to the AD 200 Facebook group. Very helpful and more users than here.
That being said, I love my AD 200.
Very compact, I could get two into my camera bag.

scg3

Thanks. It's hard to believe that such a small unit could take the place of my Alienbees but times do change!

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Hi-

The V860II is a typical shoe mounted "speedlight" type- these usually have an input power to the flash tube of between 80 and 100watt-seconds at full power. Thr AD200 is rated at 200 watt-seconds. This differential will usually boils down to 1 to 1 1/2 f/stop more power at the same ISO setting and distance. The AD200, however, has bare bulb capabilities and a removable reflector housing. The bare bulb technique can be useful as an omni-directional light source that can work well in smaller rooms or environments with reflective walls and ceilings. That configuration also works nicely with various types of light modifiers, scoop-like reflector attachments and bounce cards. The can be use off-camera to add catch-lights to eyes, act as a wink-ligh fill in low existing ligh situations and has many othere uses in multiple lighting setups.

Exposure wise, when you remove the reflector housing and go to bare bulb, at the same ISO setting and distance, you will loose approximately 2 stops so the additional power is need to approximate the effective output of your original unit. If you bare bulb configuration is used atop the camera, it is important to keep the flash tube in a vertical orientation because more light is emitted form the sides of the flash tube than from the top of it.

If you like the potential of bare bulb the AD200 is a good choice and you can use it with the reflector housing in place and it will operate like your present unit but with the additional power. It can serve as a second or third off camera flash as well. If you don't require the additional power or the bare bulb feature, you can simply add more units like your preset model.

The Alien Bees are not exactly an "apples and oranges" kinda thing- it's more like "oranges and tangerines" They too are electronic flash systems but not in the "speedlight" category- they are classified as mono-lights. Theses particular ones are AC operated so they require household current. Battery operation would entail an auxiliary power supply if one is available for that make and model. Theses units have quartz or LED modeling lamps so you can see your exact lighting. They pack about 300 watt-seconds and are usually used with soft-boxes or umbrellas. Theses are too large, heavy and unwieldy for any kind of practical on-camera mourning- the are designed to be supported on lights stands. The Alien Bees are designed for manual exposure operation- no TTL integration.

The Godox units would probably be you better choice for photojournalism and news gathering photography. If you do other work as part of you photojournalism assignments such as fashion shots, casual portraits and headhunts, food layouts, interior architectural work etc, a mono-ligh or two can be beneficial. The Godox units can be used off camer on light stand or manned, on a mono-pod, by an assistant for more mobile operation.

I hope this helps.

scg3

Thanks. It does.

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

I believe your numbers are incorrect when comparing the V860II and AD200. You may want to read this.
http://dpanswers.com/roztr/content_show.php?id=317

DavidM Loc: New Orleans, LA

Tim Payne sells both these units and has a facebook page where questions like these are asked and answered all of the time. Post your question there and I'm sure he'll have an answer for you as well. He provides a 2 yr. warranty as opposed to 1 yr other resellers have.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/speedlightfundamentals/?ref=bookmarks

aflundi Loc: Albuquerque, NM

I've been using Godox flashes and strobes for several years now, and love them from the little TT350 up to the AD600s. I have two V860IIs that I like a lot and use quite often, but to me this is a no-brainer. For your situation, absolutely the AD200s. They have more power and flexibility in roughly the same footprint. The only drawback I can think of is that it uses a different battery than the V8xx series in case you planned on using both.

cigar dude Loc: South Central MA

I have 2 AD200s - They are great in my estimation. I also have the a duel flash bracket (Bowens mount) that holds 2 ad200s. You can use if you need more light.
They are very lite to carry. 2 ad200s in a duel holder is a lot lighter than a 400 ws mono light with a battery. In the end of November they are coming out with a round head. So it is very system orientated light. As a Photojournalist the ad200s seem like a good fit for you, but ultimately you would have to make that decision. Just my opinion and as always opinions vary like the wind.
Oh by the way I am a new guy - just been lurking for a while

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I don't see where my "numbers" are incorrect in that I did not quote any exact numbers for the V860II unit- I simply estimated it's watt -second "input to the flash tube" based on experience with many of theses kinds of units- I don't know of any one-piece, shoe mounted unit of that size and configuration that exceeds 100 watt-seconds- most of them are in the area of 80w-s.

If you read carefully into the article in your link, you shoud realize that there is not necessarily a direct correlation between watt-seconds and the actual practical light output of any electronic flash unit or even its published guide number. Watt-second are an electrical values based on voltage and capacitance. The REAL output should be expressed in E.C.P.S. that is, Effective Candle Power Seconds- this value takes into consideration the EFFECTIVE power based its reflector efficiency design, and type, and relationship to the location of the flashtube in the reflector and any lens or difusser that is permanently attached to the front or the reflector or reflector housing. Oftentimes the value is expressed in B.C.P.S. which stands for Beam Candle Power Seconds along with an angle of coverage expressed in degrees. This rating is more specific as to the coverage of the given unit.

Most of the manufacturers "speedlights" and even some of the larger studio units no longer issue E.C.P.S. pr B.C.P.S specification for their units. There is a mathematical formula to establish a starting point guide number IF you know the E.C.P.S. value of the unit: It's the SQUARE ROOT of E.C.P.S x .063 x the ISO. Published guide number may be based on this formula, however, they are often exaggerated or "tested" under fixed conditions which may not necessarily match those of each photographer's working conditions so individual testing is required to establish a REAL guide number for each unit under each photographer's working conditions.

Since, nowadays, most "speedlight" type units are used in TTL or auto-flash operation, to many photographers all theses values are moot. Only those you operate the flash gear in manual mode need to be concerned with most of this data.

Now- Even of all of the above data is ascertained and a accurate guide number is established, all bets are off as soon as the reflector is changed or any ligh modifier is employed. Of course, bare bulb operation negates any influence that the reflector has over actual effective output.

More about "speedlights"- In the link refereed to the author made reference to a parabolic reflector. Theses kinds of reflectors were commonplace in many professional grade portable flash units. Theses types of units are still made by Lumadyne, Norman, Q-flash and a few of the latest imported varieties. They consist of a user changeable helical coiled flash tube enclosed in a glass envelope and a matte, spun aluminum or pebble surfaced metallic reflector. The ligh quality is generally softer and even with this configuration when compared to that of "speedlights". Because the light is not concentrated, the higher E.C.P.S. values and guide numbers are achieved through higher watt-second power- theses units can go from 100 to 4000 watt-seconds. Most "speedlights" employ smaller linear flash tubes in highly polished metallic or mirror-like plastic reflectors- some use a plastic difusser to slightly soften or spread the light.- their higher guide numbers are achieved by a more concentrated reflector design, however, the quality of light tends to be harder that units with parabolic reflectors.

My estimated differential in actual exposure differential is based on a generality. In most flash units with their supplied tube and reflector in place, a 100% increase or decrease in watt-second input usually accounts for one f/stop- give or take. Of course any mono-ligh or studio flash unit or system with a specified guide number, again, that number may be moot, in that most of theses units are used in conjunction with modifiers such as soft boxes or umbrellas.

In this thread, the OP was seeking advice on the selection among 3 differet flash units- 2 basic "speedlight" types and one mono-light. I simply supplied him with a basic overview of the situation based on the type of work he indicated. He seem quite satisfied with this Godox unit so I found no reason to recommend any othere brand or source of supply.

I use electronic flash gear in by business, in-studio and on location just about every day. At one time I operated a side business that specialized in electronic flash custom builds and modifications. I am very well versed in many of the older time-honored brands- I know them well and have taken them apart and put the back together. I am not as familiar with many of the relatively newer imported brands. Some of the made in China units went through a period of growing pains and quality control issues but are now improved and have become more mainstream among professionals and advanced users. I can not opine on every unit that comes up in conversation but I can offer reasonable general advice based on the experience of others whom I know and my observations of the basic configurations of the current gear. I always advise photographers to arrange to test flash gear, whenever possible, before making major purchases and then to perform their own tests to establish their own personalized exposure methodologies.

I have no interest, reason or pleasure in misleading anyone.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Check this out.

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scg3

Whew! THANKS!