A CPL filter has two filters. The first is a rotatable linear polarized filter to block light entering which is at 90 degrees from the alignment of the linear polarizer plane. The second filter is a Quarter wave plate which retards/changes the polarized light into unpolarized light so that auto focus and metering can function properly. The film surface or digital sensor wouldn't know the difference. Don't ask me how quarter wave plates work. I just viewed several videos explaining the physics and my head exploded.

The purpose of a CPL is to give you control over strong reflected light entering the lens because reflected light is highly polarized. Think sun reflecting off a pond or off a glass window.

Welcome! How are things in Mason? I grew up in Xenia and dated and married a girl from Morrow before relocating to upstate NY.

CG Canon gave you a pretty good summary. I started in photography in 1965 with a film SLR. A few years after digital hit the scene I got my first DSLR, a mid range Canon APS-C. About 3 years ago I downsized for weight considerations to a MFT mirrorless and it far exceeds my needs. I have to add that, other than my first camera, all my other cameras and lenses were purchased used in excellent condition. Asking what brand camera to buy is like asking what brand car to buy. Find something that feel comfortable in your hands. It will also help if you feel comfortable with the menu format. Buying refurbished with warranty is like buying new. If you go with used, be selective and careful.

Hip C did a good job talking about improving. Re: making your image comparable to a D850, the short answer is NO. You can't create accurate pixels where none existed in the original capture. The real question is can your eyes notice the difference? The latest AI software can do a reasonable approximation to fill the gaps but it's never going to be equivalent. Your camera is perfectly capable of producing beautiful 16x20 enlargements using post processing software and up sizing. If you pixel peep you may tell the difference. MFT shooters do that all the time.

My goto charger for AA and AAA is the OPUS BT-C2400. I have 3 of them. I have 150 AAA's and 41 AA's. I also have an OPUS BT C-3400 that I use for C's, D's, 16340's, 18650's and 26650's. I use an adapter for the C's and D's due to size. Most of my AA's and AAA's are ENELOOPS but I also have good luck with EBL and Tenergy. I have PIR motion sensor puck lights all thru my house which is where most of the AAA's get used. I use a spreadsheet to keep track of charging history (date, current, mAh & Volts) and identify where each of my batteries are installed. I'm considering buying more EBL's because they hold 30% - 50% more mAh's than ENELOOPS which are rated conservatively.

[quote=User ID]I always process ALL cameras output to my liking. Any differences between cameras, lenses, filters, and such have zero effect on the results of my doing that.

When I hear about "Canon color" or "Nikon color" I feel really dismissive of those who concern themselves with stuff like that. Ive witnessed sales staff talking that trash to customers who I know damnt well will use AWB for everything, forever, no exceptions.

The only differences driving me nuts is all those batteries !! I guesstimate I use about ten different batteries.

Look below and then tell me how many different brands of "corporate color" youve found there:[/quot

I see you were in Albany NY!

Does depend on who you ask. I've done it both ways. I've had better success doing denoise and sharpening last because sometimes you can introduce some noise during editing.

"Partly my fault" leaves part of the fault to someone else, who? A better assessment would have been "My fault".

I use a "low vision" keyboard with letters nearly 1/2" high. The problem I'd have with the PS keyboard is the text is so small I'd need a magnifier to read it. I'd be better off using a tablet with custom dedicated buttons for frequently used commands. The complexity of commands in PS is why I use LRC 95% of the time.

I recently finished a large project to make digital copies of my deceased mother-in-law's massive photo collection contained in two storage bins. The goal was to save the image files to stick drives to distribute to my wife's numerous siblings and their children. Some of the photos dated back to the early 40's (frilly edged B&Ws). Some were old 11x14 professional linen finished portraits (requiring multiple scans). Some photos were curled, torn, dog eared or creased. I'd used the camera on a copy stand with side lighting method before but I had challenges ajusting for varying print sizes and keeping prints perfectly flat and aligned (square). I found it easier to use a scanner so I used the scanner on my Epson ET-8550. It took me quite a while but I got excellent results. I only needed to edit a few prints (damaged originals) and stitch the multiple pass images. At the end I had about 1,300 images saved into logically labeled folders on 20 2GB memory sticks.

What CHG_CANON said. RAW is what you start with. I'm assuming you want to compare the "lenses" at each f stop. Unless you want to compare something other than the Lense's performance such as editing capability of software.

Have you guys forgotten (are you too young) about film SLRs before auto focus, before auto exposure, thru the viewfinder split image rangefinder, setting hyperfocal distance on the lens and no LCD screen. My first advancement was a built in match needle light meter. I shot a wedding with a Nikon Photomic Ftn. I also remember getting disoriented by turning in the opposite direction while looking down at the matte screen viewfinder of a Rolliecord 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 with the magnifier focus aid flipped up. (which I still have it in a box behind me). Photography is oh so much easier now. I greatly appreciate modern advancements including mirrorless.

I downloaded the latest versions (including 13.2 of LRC) for all my subscription products and I have seen no change in speed or operation whatsoever. Works just fine. May be your download got corrupted or your system is no longer adequate.

I bought an ET-8550 a year ago and I love it. It produces shockingly good color and B&W prints. I've been doing color printing since the 90's. This is the best printer I've had. Yes, it uses dye ink except for the pigment matte black it uses for matte media. Regarding the archival properties, check out Wilhelm Research Institute's latest test with the ET-8550. The latest Claria inks will likely outlive your children provided prints are kept under glass, in storage or out of strong direct sunlight. I suggest you check out JToolman youtube videos and Jose's fb printing group. He is a printer Guru! I decided to get my ET-8550 after his review and experience. I just ordered my first set of refill ink bottles even though my tanks are still about half full. In a year I've had to do 3 manual nozzle cleaning cycles to clear up nozzle check line irregularities with 3 or 4 nozzles. One secret I will pass along. All inkjet printers need to be regularly exercised (just like humans) to stay in peak performing condition. Canon printers do (ink & $$ wasting) nozzle cleaning cycles automatically before printing whenever they are not used to print something every day or so. Epson printers do not do automatic nozzle cleaning cycles but do periodic short (few seconds) nozzle cleanups on the cleaning/parking station. I specifically purchased Qimage Ultimate software because it includes a nozzle purge printing utility which allows you to schedule automatic unattended purge prints which exercise all the nozzles just like you were printing a photo. I have it set to print a 5x7 purge print on ordinary paper every 4 days whether I'm home or on vacation. (I actually schedule 2 purge prints, one set for glossy photo and one set for matt paper to exercise the photo black and the matte black.) The purge prints use a tiny amount of ink. Printing those every few days for a year plus many 13x19 prints and my tanks are still about half full. I edit with LRC but now I print with Qimage because it allows more control and manages ICC profiles easier. Qimage also includes editing features but I'm sticking with LRC.

Also what CHG_CANON said. You could have a corrupted file or your computer could be underpowered for the latest LRC update. More and more and more AI requires computing power to function. My computer is 2 years old with a good video card plus 42GB of RAM and sometimes I can hear the cooling fans revving up.

Great image. I do my own printing. I bought an Epson ET-8550 a year ago and I'm very happy with the job it does with B&W and color. I just made an 11x14 print of your image on 13x19 Red River Metallic Luster paper and the print looks fantastic. I did increase the whites a bit to widen the dynamic range and ran it thru Topaz Photo AI. Printing it at 13x19 would have required cropping a bit off the top. If you want to PM me your address I can try mailing the print to you.