I have the Tokina 11-20 2.8 I use on my D7000 for Astrophotography mainly but also landscape & car photography. I love it. I think I paid $179 used in great condition. It can be corrected in LR or PS. If yours is anyway decent for $119 you can’t go wrong.

My wife and I had a portrait studio for 15 years. We printed almost 90% on semi-matte or luster. The rest canvas. We used Millers the parent of MPix.

I shot a video of a large steam locomotive pulling a tourist train going thru a RR Crossing last weekend. The Reading & Northern T1 2102 engine pulling a string of vintage Pullman cars. Once the locomotive enters the shot it appears like it’s behind heat waves in the air. The air was in the low 60’s and the locomotive I’m sure was quite hot, so at first I thought maybe that was it. But then the passenger cars look the same.

Doing some reading I’m guessing it was a case of rolling shutter. I captured it on an iPhone 8+ 4K 30fps shot vertical for Instagram. This is first time I’ve experienced Rolling Shutter while capturing videos of fast trains, cars planes.

I’ve been using Cap Cut to edit it has no fix for rolling shutter. I downloaded Davinci Resolve but haven’t installed it yet. I’ve read Adobe Premiere Pro will fix rolling shutter, but I don’t want to subscribe to possibly fix one 1 minute video. But this train only runs a few times a year, so I would like to save it if possible. Any suggestions? Would someone with Premier Pro be willing to try fixing it for me? Thanks, Dave

I was carrying May folded up all black Bogen tripod with a Joystick ball head attached over my shoulder with a sling. A boy about 10 said to his father, “Dad! He has an Uzi”

Imagine back in the day nature photographers who used Gun Stock holders for long telephoto lenses. I’m sure they had the police called on them often.

I’m the flip side of this story. I’ve been into photography since about 1970. Always film up till about 2001-02 when I purchased a Fuji S2 for our portrait studio. My mom suffered from early onset of Alzheimer’s starting about in her late 40’s around 1981. She stopped speaking by about late 82. I’d love to have videos or even audio recordings of her talking. Just normal conversation. I’m sure there are many others in the same place. But I do see your point of parents or others that are never actually there in the moment.

Unless it truly is a very close trusted friend or family, never use that option when purchasing an item. Like stated above, you lose all protection. I purchased an item for $150. I Never got it. It took about 10 days, and me saving all my communications. But I got my money back. If I’d used friends & family, I’d be screwed.

I’m looking to buy a used but well working GoPro w/ image stabilization. Hero series 5, 7 Black or 2018 Hero model. Please let me know if you have one for sale. Thanks, Dave

I have it. It came with my Spyder Monitor Calibration puck a few years ago. I found it worked well with my Nikon D7000 and assortment of AF Lenses. I did have a focus issue. I had tried making my own calibration guide using a print out from online attached to a yardstick. The Spyder lenscal worked much better. It’s been a few years since I’ve worked with it. I’d check eBay for a used one.

Incredible capture. Please share you equipment & technique.

We have so many around our home. Thankfully our home is mainly stone & aluminum siding. They drill into 4x4 x 6” garden timber used as edging along our hedges. There are so many holes drilled in them over the years. I’ll look into the traps because they make it hard to walk into our yard without being accosted by them. Our 6 year old grandson is spooked by them. He was bitten by a bee once and is afraid of all bees. We also have issues with wasps and hornets who are attracted to the water in our garden pond. Especially during dry spells. Last year we had to bring in an exterminator because hornets nested in the wall and kept getting into my mother in laws bedroom. Once she got stung that was it, we had to bring in the big guns. Sorry for length. Dave in PA.

I bought (2) lenses thinking they were Minolta MD Mount lenses, turns out they are Konica A-R Mount manual lenses.

1 is a Tokina AT-X 24-40 2.8 Zoom. Very clean with a hard shell case. 72mm filter Mount with a haze filter on it. Looks like new.

2) is a Sigma 200mm tele F 3.5-16. It has a locking mechanism on it with 3 dots at the Mount end the says A EE. The focus says Quick & Macro Focus. Also has a hard case. It too looks in great shape. The aperture stop down pin on the mount end seems a bit stiff towards full stop down. May be normal or may need to be used more.

Both are manual focus lenses. Knowing nothing about Konica Im open to offers and or negotiations before I put them on eBay.

Pictures available upon request.

Just for reference I’ve been with eBay since 1998 and have 682 feedbacks 100% positive. Im known for quality items packed Very Carefully and shipped fast.

Thanks much, DAVE in PA.

Amazing capture. Either fighting or a mating ritual. Either way you captured it at the perfect moment. I’d say enter that into a Pennsylvania Magazine contest, I’ll bet you’ll place and get published. Just keep the rights.

I thought I read a long time ago that on a 35mm camera a normal 50mm lens is included because it’s pretty much WYSIWYG (What you see is what you get). But I know this is definitely not true when it comes to objects like the moon. Is it some sort of perspective trick, or because our Eyes and Mind can concentrate on a single object out of a whole seen that to our eyes 👀 the full moon 🌕 looks relatively large. But when shot with anything less than a 2-300mm it’s a very small circle.

I’ve been photographing since the early 70’s and shot professionally for 20 years. I’m also an amateur astronomer. This just came to mind while watching the almost total lunar eclipse last week. Then tonight I watched a video from an accomplished Amateur astronomer & YouTube monitizer who decided to go simple and capture the eclipse on a FX Canon camera with a 110 2.8 lens. The moon 🌚 was pretty small.

So to sum it up ⬆️ is there truth to a 50mm being generally what we see? And what MM on an FX or DX I have DX gives you the moon 🌝 as our eyes 👀/ brain 🧠 perceives it. Thanks 🙏 in advance. Dave in PA.

BTW I do realize there’s a difference especially to our eyes if the moon is at the horizon or at ZENITH.

Pete Rose, was hired to shadow him and photograph him for 2 days. He’s actually a very nice and interesting guy. The twist was he was The Hit King, I was the Strike-Out King. If he ever makes Hall of Fame I have several items autographed by him.

Thank you all for your replies. Seems like the best option is to forgo the mirror up. Because in order to capture enough images for deep sky astrophotography I must use an Intervalometer. Either external, my favorite choice or the built in software. Often without an expensive guided tracking mount, the best option is many shorter images stacked together. This can give you the equivalent of a longer exposure.

I have a tracking mount, but it is not guided. So my longest exposures to date are 2 minutes at a time.

I’m starting to shoot with the camera attached to my old 70’s version Celestron C8 SCT. It tracks, but not very accurate over time. So with it, I’m currently exposing 20 seconds at a time. I may go longer but it’s the equivalent of FL-2000.

Thanks again. Spiney-Dave

I didn’t post this in Astrophotography because I wanted the most Nikon D7xxx users to see it. I’m using my D7000 for Astrophotography. Both with lenses & direct connected to my telescope. In order to have the sharpest images I want mirror up. I know how to use mirror up for individual exposures. Click once mirror up, 2nd click starts the exposure, all at least 15 seconds long. Using an Intervalometer how to I get the mirror up, stays up, and then take 10-50 or more individual exposures? Yes, I read the manual, but didn’t see the answer.

Thanks in advance, Dave