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Posts for: billnikon
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May 25, 2019 07:36:28   #
Vinosity wrote:
I want to pick the minds of UHH experts! I am looking for suggestions and advice on what you may utilize as a "rolling cart" to transport gear when at a location with good enough surfaces to do that. I have looked at tool caddies, grocery carts, and rolling beach coolers, all of which may be an option, but there must be some great ideas from the photographers posting here. Thanks for the help!


Here is the staple for Florida wildlife photographers who carry way more equipment than they need. BUT IT WORKS.
https://www.amazon.com/Baby-Trend-Debut-Stroller-Cascade/dp/B078227XTG/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=three+wheeled+baby+stroller+with+pneumatic+wheels&qid=1558784080&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
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May 25, 2019 07:30:05   #
Pysanka Artist wrote:
I am looking for a monopod recommendation. I like to shoot a lot of nature -- flowers, insects and the like and get tired of supporting my 100mm macro lens. A lot of times I'm close to the ground or squatting and was thinking perhaps a monopod could help take the weight of my canon 7d mark ii and my lens. I also have a mpe-65 lens with flash that I haven't played with yet. Do you have any recommendations for me. Besides the monopod itself, is that anything else I should get with it? I'm going with an acra swiss system for my tripod and ball head.
I am looking for a monopod recommendation. I like... (show quote)

I do not recommend a monopod for macro work. You are much better off with a tripod, one with an independent center post. Here is one that is on ebay for a good price, the photo's do not show it, but the center column can go horizontal, if you put a ball head on it, you will have a great system for macro.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manfrotto-055XPROB-Tripod/133061832376?epid=97346115&hash=item1efb1a6eb8:g:HXoAAOSwIJRc5xGu

Monopods and wildlife do not mix well, for me, birds in flight are too unpredictable for a monopod. You cannot follow fast enough. If you must, use a tripod with a GIMBAL head.
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May 24, 2019 07:59:11   #
brontodon wrote:
I'm going on a cruise along the Seine River from Paris to Normandy for the 75th anniversary of D-Day. I'd like to travel light, yet have as much versatility with my Nikon D7100 as possible. The lenses I'm choosing among are:

Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8
Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-4.5 VR
Nikon 15-140mm f/3.5-4.5 VR
Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6 VR
Nikon 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6 VR
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 (either AF or MF "pancake" version)

We'll be walking on shore excursions each day, and shooting from the boat the rest of the time. I should probably go with just the 11-16 and 18-140, which keeps me to just two lenses. I usually bring a fast 50 with me, and I'm thinking of the MF version because it's so tiny. But I just don't know how much "reach" I'll need when shooting from the boat. The 55-200 is very duplicative of the 18-140 but it's very lightweight. The 18-55 is very lightweight for walking around, but the 18-140 is more versatile. The 70-300 would give me the greatest reach, but it's the heaviest lens on the list.

Any suggestions, especially from people who may have taken such a river cruise and know what it's like? Thanks in advance!
I'm going on a cruise along the Seine River from P... (show quote)


My wife and I have taken several river trips. As a result of this EXPERIENCE I now only take a pocket Sony camera in a belt pouch. Taking any DSLR is TOO much. My favorite travel Sony's are the HX90V and HX99V, both have a Zeiss 24-750 zoom lens capable of 20X30 sharp enlargements. And they have pop up viewfinders that act just like your DSLR.
The belt pouch keeps you hands free for those shore excursions.
Please do not take your DSLR, you will not be needing it if you take a pocket camera.


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May 24, 2019 07:00:10   #
dyximan wrote:
I have a nikon D 500 and the nikon 18 to 300 lens and the Tam on 150 to 600 G2 lens, I read an article I believe it was by Steve Perry who talked about using a tele converter on the 18 to 300, I recently looked online and see that Nikon or others have a 1.4 a 1.7 and a 2.0 Tele converters. I would use the converter on either one of the Previously mentioned llenses, any suggestions, I would be using this primarily for birding and/or obviously very distant objects in the daylight hours. I'm sure you can direct me to comparisons which are helpful but am also looking for practical and personal experiences.
Thank you
I have a nikon D 500 and the nikon 18 to 300 lens ... (show quote)


A tele converter will not work on your 18-300.
There has not been a tele converter made that IMPROVES image quality, in fact, the opposite happens.
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May 24, 2019 06:57:07   #
CurleyB wrote:
After 2 D3200s crapped out on me for different reasons I opted to buy a more sturdy camera, sucked it up and got a D750. (I was stuck with Nikon because of the lenses and attachments already in my bag.) While doing some night shooting I found my cheapo tripod was not up to the additional weight of my new camera. In order to avoid going through a bunch of different tripods, I was looking for recommendations. Criteria is: cost, weight, ease of use, replacement parts, etc. Any suggestions, and why?
After 2 D3200s crapped out on me for different rea... (show quote)


1. I am so sorry for you that you are STUCK with Nikon, I know many feel differently.
2. I have found BENRO tripods reasonably priced and substantially built. They also come with a tool bag and carrying case.
3. INDURO is another great brand. The Enduro GIT403/404 are examples.
4. Benro TMA 38CL ser3M3 is another
5. TMA48CXL series4 mach 3 I believe is $437.00
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May 24, 2019 06:47:11   #
markwilliam1 wrote:
I don’t own a full frame camera. I don’t understand why lenses are made for a crop sensor camera and different lenses are made for a full frame camera. Why can’t you use a crop sensor lens on a full frame and vice versa?


Good question grass hopper, here is your answer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XG5YcG3sxM
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May 24, 2019 06:45:19   #
tenny52 wrote:
By looking at the reviews and photo samples of the Hwawei P30 Pro, I find that dsl camera days is numbered. At a price of less than a pro zoom lens, it can do much more.
Its technology may not be truly optical, but the effect is similar to 100 times the iso capacity of today's camera. This is only the beginning of a new era of photo technology.
At least for now, you won't need to carry 20 lbs of photo gears on a safari trip.
Hwawei is a smart phone and network company, which is under Trump's censorship heavily.
If Hwawei opens a camera subsidiary, I believe a lot major camera companies will go bankruptcy.
And we can mothball our collections of gears.
Do you find this is true, scary, or fiction?
By looking at the reviews and photo samples of the... (show quote)


I am 70, nothing scares me anymore.
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May 24, 2019 06:42:38   #
snipershot wrote:
The title says it all. I have the D500 and am learning and loving it. I have the sigma 50-100 and its nice, but I need something wider. What say you guys?


I own the Nikon 17-55. It acts like and looks like the Nikon 24-70. First of all they are both made in Japan, I stand corrected, the 17-55 WAS made in Japan.
I find this lens just as sharp as my 24-70 F/2.8, which is saying something because the 24-70 is SHARP. The 17-55 of course gives the same field of view as the 24-70 on your D500, which, I find anyway, an ideal lens for almost everything.
The 17-55 is not a light weight, I would not want it around my neck all day, unless of course, I used in on my favorite BLACK RAPID strap, then carrying that lens around all day would not be too bad.
The range of the 17-55 is better than the 18-35 especially at the top end, the 24-70 is almost a portrait lens, but also wide enough for good architectural shooting. The Sigma will give you a field of view of 27-52.5 mm. So it looks like the Nikon gives you more at both ends. The Sigma however is a 1.8 lens vs. a 2.8 lens, so chalk one up for Sigma, but with the ISO range of the D500, one stop is nothing for that camera.
The 17-55 is built like a tank, and will give you years of service and after years of service you should get almost what you paid for it on resale.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
Yes, the 17-55 is a real value, I got mine on Ebay, Mint in the box for a really great price.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
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May 24, 2019 06:28:33   #
cygone wrote:
I read a post somewhere that the commenter states the 1.8 or 1.4 50 MM lens are not good lenses to use on my D850 because they can't handle (or is it, resolve) more than 23MP. Is this correct? If so, what is a good walking around lens on the D850. Thanks


I shoot the 50mm 1.8 lens off the D850 without a loss in MP unless I crop of course.
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May 23, 2019 08:19:47   #
Chris T wrote:
To quote Bufface, Stan …

"Fortunately, I was able to work things out with the seller in Japan, he initiated a postal claim for shipping damages and my money was refunded."

Perhaps, you missed that … huh?


That is why I like selling on Ebay. Both the buyer and seller are protected. I am happy you got your money back.
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May 23, 2019 08:09:48   #
drsdayton wrote:
I'm pondering binoculars...primarily for birding, and don't have a history with them - so have some questions:

1) 8x42 v 10x42 - I glean from what I read that 8x42 may be easier for beginners, particularly in terms of tracking. Is that true? Will I feel differently about this a year out? (Seems to me that the extra range would be worthwhile, particular when paired with 600-1000mm camera lens capability)???

2) You can easily jump from the $3-400 range, to the $8-900 range, to the $2,000 range. Are there significant differences (that matter) between these price points?

3) Should I be considering other sizes? Are there clear favorites out there?

Thx for your thoughts!

Doug
I'm pondering binoculars...primarily for birding, ... (show quote)


For a small pair, that is excellent, I like the Nikon Monarch 7 (great value) 8X30, they also come in 10X30 (my personal favorite). Then going up from there the Nikon Monarch 7 10X42 (my favorite sitting birding glass). Both the 30 and 42 are bright. I prefer the 10 magnification. But that is my preference. If your going to get a pair and walk around with them over your neck the 30's are lighter. All Nikon Monarch's come with a padded neck strap and rubber outer caps.
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May 23, 2019 07:42:40   #
HardwareGuy wrote:
At this time, Outdoor Photographer has a special membership price going of 30% off for the first year.
Can anyone offer their opinions if the content is worth it, and which level you are at?
Thanks!


The articles are good and well presented. I suggest buying a copy and looking to make sure it offers what you are looking for.
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May 23, 2019 07:41:17   #
Rayjenks wrote:
What is a good small wide angle lens for a Nikon D 800 either Nikon or tamron, or another third party lens. Starting at 15 or 18 mm


Nikon 16-35 mm f/4. It is sharp.
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May 23, 2019 07:39:32   #
Bufface wrote:
I purchased a used Sigma EX 180mm f/2.8 APO HSM EX DG OS for Nikon from ebay.

The lens arrived with the lens cap cracked as some force had been applied to the front of the lens when shipping. The glass elements appear undamaged, however upon attaching to the camera, I noticed the focus system is completely broken.

The lens will not autofocus and the manual focus ring turns, but does not actually focus the lens.

Fortunately, I was able to work things out with the seller in Japan, he initiated a postal claim for shipping damages and my money was refunded.

I now have this $1,000 paperweight in my possession, and I'm wondering what possible avenues I could explore for having it repaired.

This is a Japanese lens in the USA, so it is gray market, and I believe Sigma charges an additional $250 dollars on top of the standard repair fees. This may put the cost above what its worth.

I have never dealt with a broken lens that will not focus at all, and I am curious as to how difficult a repair like this would be.
I purchased a used Sigma EX 180mm f/2.8 APO HSM EX... (show quote)


Nice paper weight.
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May 23, 2019 07:37:20   #
Reconvic wrote:
If I don't use the correct jargon concerning equipment and technique...excuse me please. I am a relatively new photographer of 20 months but have immersed myself in birding especially raptors in flight and "dives". For me and other more experienced professionals it is the most difficult event. I use JUST a Sigma 600 Contemporary for all my captures. I have researched the media and here on UHH about the best camera and lenses for my passion. The 850 comes in at 46 mps but I always crop that ends up at 20 mps. The 850 is frequently compared to the D500 crop camera that also crops out at 20mps, and now the mirrorless Z6 and Z7. The 850 comes in first in image quality and focus rate, depending on the lens of course. An osprey dive for me happens in a little over 2 seconds. I have 2 successful dives now and the 850/sigma has nailed every frame including the 50 mph dive and the getting up out of the water. My buffer runs dry at 20 frames and takes a little time to recover so I can complete the fly away.

Soooo...Is there a better camera for what I am doing? Mark Smith on you tube is the only other photographer that I have viewed that has successful osprey dives and has determined that the 850 is the best for both focus rate and image quality. The lens he uses is a 600 prime that I don't think I can free hand? I have to rent a Tamron G2 to see if there is any better image quality?

I am including 2 of the frames of my first Osprey Dive where the osprey is estimated at speeds up to 50 mph. Would greatly appreciate any comments from you that I greatly respect.
If I don't use the correct jargon concerning equip... (show quote)


Suggestion, either the Nikon 200-500 5.6 or the newer Nikon 500 5.6. Both these lenses have the new electronic aperture, when, at 10 frames per second assure that each exposure will be right on the nose.
I would further suggest using GROUP AUTO FOCUS, Continuous auto focus, either matrix or center weighted metering. I always try to use manual exposure or aperture priority for the best exposure (yours are a little washed out) I would also recommend shooting at least at 1/2000 sec. or 1/4000 sec. is better, at least two stops down(cause your talons are out of focus) to give better depth of field.
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