Traditionally, back in the days of film, in the darkroom with your negative on the enlarger, you could "lighten" certain areas of your photo by "burning"; i.e. causing more exposure over just that one area. You could also darken certain areas by "dodging". i.e. covering the light with a small piece of paper or your hand in a circling motion to lessen the amount of light put to the paper (print medium).
In the digital darkroom today (i.e. Photoshop and/other software, you use brushes to lighten or darken problem areas.
In Lightroom, it's very easy to lift some shadows, eliminating a lot of need for "burning". However,
please note if any areas are blown out, (Total whiteout) there is no way to recover that loss. Total blow outs cannot be dodged in.
I hope this makes sense.
I've attached a photo for illustrative purposes only. The top photo has been "burned" using Ps to darken the too light spots on the back of the mantis. The lower photo is just a jpeg conversion with some sharpening of the RAW file in Lightroom.

Vintage lens in very good condition. The front element has a couple light scratches that is hardly visible. I tried to show it in the pictures but unsuccessful. Focus ring and aperture ring turn smoothly. It comes with a Hoya filter, original front and rear caps and hard leather case.

This is a Sonnar lens and is perfect for portrait.

I also have an excellent condition Samigon filmfix film extractor that I can throw in if interested.

$200 includes USPS priority shipping and paypal fee.