I have a number of "albums" created over the years, e.g. vacations, family, friends, bikes, doors, etc. I would like to display them with random sequencing on a monitor/TV. Further, I would like to accomplish this via a WiFi connection if possible. I do not need a large screen but was looking for something in a 24 inch size range. I would like some of your recommendations or advice on how to pick from the many alternatives that are available? Thanks in advance for any help/advice/comments.

You need to learn how to read. He is saying it can vary as much as 600k. He was saying in the Daylight range he was measuring a variance of 270k instead of 600k.

Grow a brain, learn how to read. And I trust the guy at nikoncafe and his testing than you an your uninformed, untest, opinion. And by the way. go back to school and learn how to read. I wish this site had a true ignore button because I would ignore you as well as the other guy. You guys just want to argue. I stated my opinion and I stand buy it. The OP can read all the information and he can buy a styrofoam cup if he want.

I've read about this numerous times and think one has to view the image on the LCD screen/EVF and manipulate colors to meet what one's brain considers "neutral grey." Having defective color vision (red/green + something else) leaves me unable to complete this task successfully. Seems obvious I must rely on "Auto WB' or just keep it on "Daylight" which is what I've been doing. As Gary Friedman tells it:

How to Nail the White Balance using the Grey Card
· Do one of the following:
o With the subject holding the card in front of them, do a Custom White Balance in your camera. The white balance will be locked until you change it.
o When you’re processing your images on your computer, use the test shot taken in Step 1. Use the White Balance Selector tool (commonly referred to as the “Eyedropper Tool”) on the grey card to set the white balance, then apply that setting to all the images in that session.
· That’s it!

BTW, I noticed years ago that my eyes each have slightly different ideas of the colors I'm seeing. I wonder how many other folks have such, seems about right since bilateral symmetry is typically off a smidge naturally.

I ask this because I keep hoping the answer involves a button that will magically find and set the "correct" WB but suspect that's what I'm already doing with "daylight."

I have noticed that PSE & LR sometimes/rather often select a "auto WB correction" that even I can see is wayyy off. My guess is that when one color predominates as green in a lush landscape the auto algorithm takes too much green out leaving other colors off kilter.

Here I go ignoring Mark Twain's good advice; "It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt.”

I shot a lot of photos with Amoreena at this cemetery that I am in love with, even though my eternity will be spent as ashes. This is an old catholic cemetery in Milwaukee that I've been photographing for 35 years or maybe longer. It is simply a living (??) work of art. Please do not inform me of my desecration or how I'm on my own personal path to hell. I don't want to hear it. At the risk of redundancy, we destroyed nothing, used nothing up and left everything as we found it. If I believed in the afterlife or the spirit world or ghosts, I might tell you that the dead were greatly thrilled and amused to see a still living angel walking among them.

Now to the photo:

This location is a sort of a catacomb at the base of a large hill that supports a 140 year old chapel (that I've photographed inside, but not nudes. If you are interested in seeing those, maybe I'll post some on a different section of UHH, if there is enough interest). For some reason, this gate has never been locked, so I guess it's okay to go inside. Above this space and on the slope of the hill is a skylight, to make seeing inside the space possible. It was once paned with leaded glass but now sports plexiglass (thanks to drunken middle-school vandals, I suppose). Anyway, I put one of my remote speedlights on the skylight with a small cell grid so it would cast a beam downward. This is the ray of light illuminating Amoreena. I shot several versions, but this one with her upward gaze is my personal favorite. Sort of a reverie, if you will.

If you have any comments or questions about how I made this photo or any technical aspects of it, please ask me. Any other conversation is also welcome, but no preaching, please.

“I'm curious- there are so many, horror stories, on this forum, about damaged gear. What are some of y'all doing with your stuff, engaging in some kid mortal combat using your camera as bludgeons? After all, it is precision optical, mechanical and electronic gear, not a firearm made of gunmetal! “

Over the last few decades I have taken my cameras & lenses: on open water kayak crossings from Minnesota’s N. Shore to Isle Royale and circumnavigated it, 5 times, camera and lens frequently pulled out of cockpit to photograph rough water; hiked the Tongoriro Crossing and numerous other wild areas in New Zealand, always with a camera & lens carried at the ready; frequently portaged canoes in wilderness areas with camera & lens strapped to my chest, with branches not infrequently hitting my chest and equipment; etc., etc. I continue to make my living doing this type of photography. I don’t mean this to be rude, but stuff happens, and many of us do things outside of normal experiences…inability to imagine it doesn’t stop it from happening.

Unfortunately, this question, operating to protective filters, usually opens up a can of worms and as you can see the "shouting and counter- shouting has l already started.

The anti-filter came to insist that protective filters will introduce flare and negatively affect sharpness. The pro-filter folks remind us of the possibility of serious lens damage due to various impacts, dust, dirt, great fingermarks, etc.

Technically speaking, anything you place in front of you, even the finest optical glass coated filter can possibly cause the aforementioned issues. A poorly crafted filter will certainly do so. I high-quality filter such as the kind made by B+W, Zeiss, and other reputable and time-honoured manufacturers will usually NOT cause any perceptible loss of image quality.

As for wide-angle lenses, B+W has a very comprehensive stock of THIN filters for wide-range lens applications. Also, note that with ultra-wide-angle lenses LENS SHADE usage can be problematic. The shade would have to be very large and shallow to preclude vignetting, the same problem caused by a filter in a thicker rim or made of thicker glass.

So, here is my personal experience. I do quite a bit of industrial photography on construction sites and other hazardous environments. I am dealing with airborne particles, metal filings, sparks for welding, sawdust, etc. I will use the protective filter in those situations. Over the years, 5 filters needed to be replaced because of damage that would have seriously harmed the front element of my lenses. I have made extremely large prints for trade-show booth displays with no loss of quality due to filter usage. You have used the filter on your other lenses, so I assume you are satisfied withte the quality.

A serious head-on impact or dropping a lens on a hard surface will cause serious damage regardless of filter protection. If the filter is shattered, the shards of glass will, in turn, damage the lens. A lens shade may prevent scratch of the lens by heavy brush or sharp twigs in the woods, etc., but again would not abate a head-on impact.

Here is a link to a very comprehensive website. It explains the thin-filter usage and has a handy "vignetting" avoidance tool that will hel you determthe correct filter for your focal length and filter mount diameter.

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/UV-and-Clear-Lens-Protection-Filters.aspx

I hope this helps.