Wow.

Can see the post now, "Drone for sale, great shape, sharp images slightly melted." I've heard the guys who use remote cams for the rocket launches can get a little melted.

I was going to say "pump the brakes" but it may be too late.

It might be worth getting out a pad of paper and writing down where you have your images. Lightroom CC Classic will point to images on your hard drive. The catalog just stores information about them including your edit history.

So, I like to create a new folder somewhere named "photography". I also put that on it's own hard drive. Then, I slowly move things into that folder and organize how I like it. For the most part, that is by year, but I also break out key events/jobs. Just add a little at a time to the catalog.

Then, you also have one point to backup which you should factor in.

Very nice, thanks for sharing.

Search YouTube for tutorials on all of them to help decide.

It has come in handy a few times for me, mainly in sports and birds. I see it as working with the AF blocked shot setting. If the occasional "thing" comes in closer than 6m and I know I'm not interested in that area, I'll use it. I don't want the lens to hunt for focus close. For birds, it helps prevent the camera from focusing on a close branch that might be tempting for it when trying to follow in-flight.

Yes. B&H and Adorama, but any of the listed shops or my local shop. I also have bought all my lenses used.

Well, paid gigs are way, way down as I do mostly sports. No portrait shoots at all as this is a side gig and the potential virus exposure isn't worth it to me or others.

I have branched out and done more "fun" stuff like birds and surfing. So, that has been good.

Email I got said all are closing but you can still print online and they will ship to you.

That might actually be better than trying to brave my local Costco parking lot. People get really aggressive and nasty there.

By highlight weighted metering, do you mean expose to the right, or the mode in some cameras? I've got a highlight mode in two of my bodies that are great for certain situations, like when doing an event and they turn out the lights but I still want to get the subject in the spotlight.

For ETTR, one thing I recently learned is that the in camera JPEG mode does make a difference. "Standard" or "Normal" will drop the highlights and boost the shadows a little for the preview you see on the back of your camera. When I'd get back to my computer, it wouldn't ever be as "to the right" as I wanted. Then, I changed the in Camera setting to Flat/Neutral. The preview isn't as nice, but it is much closer to actual RAW histogram.

Hilarious.

Now we can wait for the yellow snow comment.

You will get a lot of opinions for sure. I went from a D7200 -> D500 for my crop body. D500 will be better, will it be revolutionary? No. The D7100 -> 7200 -> D500 get 1/3 to 2/3 stop ISO better each time. I've had acceptable shot to ISO 6400, but like to cap the D500 to ISO 5000. That is great for a crop body.

Better on D500 that D7x00:
- AF. It focuses better and faster. And in less light. Hard to go back from this AF when you learn how to use it
- ISO, maybe a little
- Buffer, yes, but I rarely filled buffer on D7200.
- Flicker control. This can be a life saver in those poorly lit places. Even in older pro arenas.
- Build. It is a solid piece of equipment.
- Auto WB is very good (I set custom when possible)

If you want truly better low light, a FX body will be a huge change. I can take my FX bodies to ISO 12,800 and beyond. 2x the crop bodies. There is a huge cost in lenses and they are heavier. I personally really like the reach on a 70-200 on FX for indoor sports. So that is a factor.

A used D500 will be better and could be a decent price point. You may still be unhappy in certain low light situations. The camera won't help you anticipate a shot, know where to pre-focus or how to compose. The D500 will help in some tricky AF situations.

What I don't like about D500:
- Basically, it isn't a full frame
- You need to expose right at high ISO or the noise isn't good.
- At higher ISO, the dynamic range of the color falls off fast. Noise isn't the only problem
- The dynamic range isn't as nice for landscapes.

My D500 comes with me for field sports and wildlife. I don't bring it for indoor events, but I have multiple bodies and some picky editors.

So, I'd say, step back and figure out what you need. Do you have an editor who is hard on you? Strict requirements from contracts? Or can you take a little motion blurr to keep ISO down and grain and be super happy?

If I could only have one body, a mid-range FX with a great sensor like the D750 and a Nikon 70-200/2.8. I do have a D500, D5 and D750 so I get to choose the right one for the situation. Indoors, D500 is last on my list unless I know the lights are great.

Roku is great. It can also add up. Make a list of the channels you need, want and don't care about. Then see what it will cost to get them.

There are some good sites out there that compare the channels offered by each. Sling, owned by DirectTV is a nice option (but a little confusing). If you add some to the premium content apps like Netflix, Disney+, Hulu, etc. you get a lot of options, but you may not be saving money any more.

I put a little clear tape on it so it doesn't move to the dreaded locked position.

Did you click the button to "visualize spots"? That helps with that tool to find dust and turns in to black and white. Should be on the toolbar below the image when in spot removal.

To protect your camera stuff or computers? I try to keep my camera stuff in a closed closet and with caps on. The computer has fans that like to pull all that dust in.

The few times I've used room air purifiers, I was too lazy to clean them and they got to the point of not helping.