Only 72 of these were ever built, most by the Baldwin co. they were all built in the early part of the 20th century DM&IR being built in 1941, of the model in the picture there were 18 built in two classes M3 and M4.
all 2-8-8-4, they are some of the largest steam engines ever built only the "Big Boy" built for the Union Pacific was slightly larger. DM&IR weight was 1,133,040 while the "Big Boy" was 1,208,750. The "Big Boy" was a 4-8-8-4. There are only 3 surviving examples of the leviathans they are all the DM&IR models. The age of steam was a moment in history that changed the size of the planet. Thank you for the picture.
Sounds like a good idea on the surface, except like all things in nature there is balance. Remember your high school science class, matter in neither created or destroyed. The Earth weights the same today as it did millions and maybe billions of years ago. If we removed all of the trash (matter) from the planet we would change the mass. That would alter the orbit. It is my understandings that even the slightest alteration of the orbit would make devastating impact on the plant. Caution in all things.
I did not see this question, what operating system are you running? If you are not on Windows 10 you should consider up-dating. Microsoft just eliminated support for Windows 7, which was the last viable operating system. Windows 8 and 8.1 were table systems. Windows Vista is an unmentionable. Windows 10 which is the latest current OS comes on all new system, your will need the Pro version.
Your Camera came with a charger, the manual indicates that the battery can only be charged in that charger. See page 25 of the users manual. Nikon generally does not have internal charging circuits in their larger Cameras. The reason is that the batteries both heat up and emit very minuet amount of gas. These could damage the Camera.
One quick note, besides taking pictures I am a industrial electrical engineer. Your new WD's will last you a long time and give you very good service if you treat them with care. Since a hard drive has moving parts which can become damaged, avoid any significant impact. When transporting them pack them in foam lined cases or pouches. I have used a couple of heavy socks in a zip lock bag. Avoid ex-stream temperatures, don't leave them in a freezing car over night, don't allow them to sit in direct bright sun. When in use place them on a solid surface avoid cyclic vibration or any sudden shock. Don't move them at all when on if at all possible. All mechanical hard drives are susceptible to disc surface damage if the reader heads contact the disk surface. It's called scooping, it happens when vertical movement of the head hits the disk surface the damage is not reversible. I also recommend that lap tops not be operated on your lap. In my many years of using portable computers I have never had a drive fail. The best way to operate your potable computers and external drive is to find a good solid flat surface place both on it and don't move either. I have 7 potable HDs, and 3 potable SSDs. I have a very early WD passport 250mg with FAT32 partitioning, it has thousands of hours of time on it ran for 4 years around the clock. It was tapped to a 4 pound piece of steel, and placed on concrete floor next to my computer. It to this day has no bad sectors. Best of luck and take many great pictures.
We all recall the dawn of digital, my favorite Nikon came out with a Camera that while it took good pictures it looked like two wallets attached in the middle. Does anyone else remember these? It worked well but no real photographer would have anything to do with it it did not look like a camera. So they had to return to the form everyone knew. I still do not like mirror-less camera.
Many years ago I encountered a Photographer from National Geographic. He had a pile of Camera; this was back in the film day. BDP (Before Digital Photography). I was complimenting him in the incredible pictures in the publication. He answer was humble and enlightening. He said they got shoot in the most incredible locations with top notch equipment. He added that for every picture you see there are hundreds even thousands you do not. He told me on his last shoot which lasted 3 weeks; he shot many thousands of pictures, only 2 or 3 shoots were printed in the magazine. I always remembered that, so shoot, shoot, shoot. I have found that I have whole day’s even trips, with my camera that results are all a waste of memory on my cards. But then I get that one shot, that one perfect shot that says it all. As for Photo shop, as someone said it’s a tool. I use it to cut out stuff like power lines another clutter that ruins what would be good pictures. I also use it to restore old photos for friend and family. That takes the old and the new and blends them together. You can imagine handing someone a photo of their great grandmother that was damaged and faded that now looks like new, like it was taken yesterday. It is now preserved for ever.
Living in the South I see these regularly, it never takes away from the beauty. This is a wonderful Photo. Thank you for sharing.
These are great. The settings are just fabulous.
Kodachrome, is the older of the two types being one of Kodak's original developments. It had a very complex development process, and was designed as an archival product. It was expensive to make and for 35 mm cameras was mostly distributed in 25 and 64 ASA. Ectachrome on the other hand was a later development and was less expensive to produce, and develop. Ectachrome was also produced in much faster speed ranges, first as 100 ASA, then a professional version in 160 ASA, and later a high speed version in 200 ASA. The Kodak continued to refine the Ectachrome development process to increase film performance, and reduce the grainy nature of Ectachrome. Kodachrome in the 25 ASA speed when used in a stable platform could produce images that when projected even on the largest screens were stunning it also had much deeper tones that Ectachrome. I have several hundred Kodachrome slides that I shot to be printed as pictures, some of them were blown up to 24 x 36 format. I also used it as studio portrait film, I had a second floor natural light studio. Kodachrome was balanced for natural light, so when used with incandescent lamps it yielded an ineradicable color. I never used Ectachrome even though it was cheaper, I tried it once and the results were so much inferior to Kodachrome, it was always worth the cost to me. In 2009 Kodak stop producing Kodachrome, some Ectachrome was discontinued in 2009, and the rest in 2011. These are iconic films, they mark an evolution in progress of image processing. Today I can take my D7100 and take shots for power point, or wall presentation, with no thought of do I have the right speed film in my bag, do I have slide or print film with me. So hold onto all you slides. I keep mine in a air tight box. I am sure they are only valuable to me. Happy processing. There is more history on Wikipedia about both products.
Share what is Meaningful let go of what is not, thank you, I feel every image.
I have many DVD's as well I am not sure why it is but Netflix seems to go to the bottom of the barrel for their movies. It is the same with Amazon Prime, I feel they want you to watch their as you say sub-par creations. I travel to Mexico and watch Netflix there the content is completely different much broader selection of movies. An associate recommended VuDu for the best movie content I have yet to try it.
On the first picture, for my part the crop is perfect, pictures of people tell a story, or at least they should. This tells what is important to the occupant. If you were entering into the space you would see that the books, and the items on the wall would be the first things your eyes would see. These are items of great importance to the owner of the space, and relay their life story to the guest. The position of the man is such that he allows you to view all he treasures, his body does not block the view of those displayed items. I think all these pictures are wonderful. Thank you for sharing.
For most of us who take photographs shutter speed is a tool, it is an adjustment for an effect. Not an element of the end product, the end product is the result of the applied tool. All photographs are moments in time, once seals on film or now in the digital form, they become static time stands still, a moment that can never return. It is infinitely long and infinitely short. In a single image all elements can be in play. If you set up a time exposure of traffic on a busy highway at night, the highway will be clear and in focus suspended in time, but the lights of the cars moving through the frame will be long ribbons of illumination traveling through time. But when the shutter closes the time has passed. Shutter speed, like Aperture, and ISO are parameters to be used like brushes for the artist.
Depending on how cold the equipment was, using the air tight case, bag or any such is correct. I recently read an article by a pro who also said to return the equipment to indoor temperature gradually. So from the outdoors to an attached garage or enclosed unheated porch. In the long passed with my film cameras, I would got out to my location with the Camera in the trunk of the cold car, I would have put it there the night before. I would use it all day and get my shots. On the return trip home I would put it in the cold car on the floor of the back seat, then drive 30 minutes or so as the car warmed so did the Camera and lenses, all slowly, they were always in a bag to slow the process. I now live in South Carolina where there is not enough cold weather to even bother with.
Does anyone recall the issue with dry cold air and film causing a lighting like effect from static electricity.