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Posts for: Toby
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May 21, 2012 10:03:12   #
You are well on your way. I would suggest you open the aperature up as much as you can so as to separate your subject from others. Also bend your knees, especially on the hurdles and long jump. Sitting on the ground will give a perspective that most observers do not get to see. Be careful of subject underexposure because you will be getting more bright sky.
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May 21, 2012 09:44:38   #
Are you going to check his books to assure you get your share of the net profits? Remember, "net profits" is the number after everything else you can possibly charge to the project is deducted. Not to be confused with "gross profits".

I would suggest a fixed fee or $ per shirt and then a % of net profit after a certain level is atained. If he is an honest business person that should not be a problem.
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May 21, 2012 09:37:55   #
I think a good way to judge if a photo will sell is ask yourself, "if someone else, a stranger, had taken the photo would I buy it and hang it on my wall"?
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May 17, 2012 10:39:38   #
Coops Place wrote:
Thanks for the info, but I regularly format my CF cards in the camera after I download and backup my pictures. I have also reset the count to 0001 manually. According the the manual, if you reach the count of 9999, the camera will not allow you to take anymore pictures on that card even if you have more space on the card. If you reach 9999 you have to format the card in order to use it in the camera. I have several CF cards and I get the same results on each card.


I didn't bother to see what the manual says but when I reach 9999 the next file on the card goes into a new folder than the camera creates and goes on from there.
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May 10, 2012 10:35:18   #
Approx number of shots?
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May 10, 2012 10:24:54   #
WHAT MAKES YOU THINK HE IS SLEEPING?
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May 9, 2012 11:22:05   #
I have one and it's heavy, expensive and fantastic. I love it.
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May 7, 2012 09:23:34   #
hj wrote:
hj wrote:
My son coaches several soccer teams and I shoot for them. Another forum recommended Canon 200mm f2.8L to me a couple years ago for night-time soccer under lights and it has served me well, though limiting my shots due to the prime focal length. Thought I would like to get a 70-200mm f2.8 zoom lens to better cover near side of the field. However at my age, I find a lens that heavy would be a real struggle for me... over 3 lbs just for the lens. Can anyone recommend a lighter lens that would allow me to make closer sports shots on the near side of the soccer field under night lights? Seems like anything slower than f2.8 will not work. I have been looking at various Primes with a shorter focal length than my 200mm, but I see no one suggesting they are fast enough for sports. I'm not adverse to shooting some long shots with my 200 prime lens, and then swapping lenses for some closer shots. I'm in a quandary and need suggestions.
My son coaches several soccer teams and I shoot fo... (show quote)


I'm interested in Canon's 100mm f2.0 for shots on the near side of the soccer field. However I have seen several comments about this being fine for "indoor sports" and never a reference to outdoor sports. What might be the difference? Any thoughts about near-side soccer field shots under night field lights?

I have enjoyed shooting my prime 200mm f2.8 L lens and would like to alternate with a shorter focal length prime lens. So much easier just shooting, rather than adjusting the focal length on a zoom prior to a shot.
quote=hj My son coaches several soccer teams and ... (show quote)


HJ, if I were going to use that lens I would station myself near one of the goals and just concentrate on that part of the field. You may want to check to see if you are getting enough of the action in focus because of the small depth of field. May need to go to f2.8.
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May 6, 2012 17:49:32   #
imagemeister wrote:
Whats wrong with the 70-200 F4 L ?? Crank up the ISO if you have a decent / recent body and shoot away !


ISO 3200 may not be enough to get you 1/500 of a second. More than 3200 ISO and you will get questionable quality.
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May 6, 2012 10:22:01   #
I have shot night soccer for many years. Anything less than at the collage level at night is probably starved for light making an f2.8 a must (lower than f 2.8 has too narrow DOF). Soccer is so fast that unfortunately one second your lens is too long for the action just in front of you and the next it is too short for the far action at the other end of the field. There is no good lens for night soccer. A 70-200 is about the best compromise if you want some range. The weight is a killer, so use a monopod.
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Apr 30, 2012 11:57:46   #
wilbur wrote:
If I take a picture of someone's reflection in a mirror, using auto in my g12 , is the camera focusing on the surface of the mirror or is it focusing on the reflected subject which is 10' away from the mirror ?
If I'm not expressing this correctly , someone that understands my poorly posted question, please restate it so it can be answered. Thanks. Wilbur


Notnobudda, wrong! wrong! wrong! A good mirror is esentually invisible. The light from the subject travels from the subject to the mirror to the camera. The total distance is what you need to focus on not the distance to the mirror.

A 10 second test to prove this. Tape a piece of newspaper or similiar item to the mirror surface (actually you can even use the mirror frame if it has enough detail to focus on). Get as close to the mirror as you can and still focus on the newspaper (2 or 3 feet). Now look over your shoulder at something across the room. Is it in focus? No. If the mirror image was on the mirror surface it should be in focus just as the newspaper is, they are the same distance. If your camera focuses on the mirror surface, you need to clean the mirror. High school Physics.
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Apr 27, 2012 10:39:11   #
nat wrote:
There was a discussion earlier today about boosting the ISO on a sunny day to get a higher shutter speed. Can someone explain to me in simple terms how this works? I don't fully understand ISO except that on sunny days I keep it at 100-200 and gradually increase it as the natural light decreases. Thanks in advance. Nat


It might just be your wording but you should set the shutter speed you want first and then adjust the ISO (sensitivity) to what you need. An alternate would be to hold the ISO and adjust the lens aperature or a combination of both.
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Apr 26, 2012 11:39:19   #
Aspect ratio is the ratio of length to width. The aspect ratio for most DSLR's is 2:3 (2 units wide to 3 units high). Any photo made to this ratio (4x6, 8x12 or 16x24 for example)will have all of your information in it. Any photo made to a different ratio will either have white edges on 2 sides or part of the photo cut off on 2 sides.
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Apr 24, 2012 12:24:44   #
bedgmon wrote:
In the not so distant past, we wrote on the back of the photo who was in the photo, age, etc. for future reference. I am asking for opinions on how I might keep the information on my generational photos that I am scanning. Many are in the early 1900s and some in the late 1800s. (I will not be the one to receive the hard copies for my children.) How would I show text on the front of the photo and not destroy the feeling of the photograph? Is there a better alternative? I am open to learning and/or using new programs.
In the not so distant past, we wrote on the back o... (show quote)


Two suggestions using PS or CS4 (I am sure there are others that will work as well). If info is a small amount use meta data. If you have a photo with many people in it I suggest you load it into the software, click on the filter at top of menu, click on "stylize" in the drop down menu and then click on "find edges". The result will be an outline of the people in the photo that you can put a number or letter on each persons head. Next make a separate file (Word or Excel) with a list of facts about each item.
Hope this helps.
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Apr 21, 2012 23:58:13   #
They are all very good
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