Posts for: Math78
Dec 24, 2017 14:02:15 #
sathca wrote:
Iâve had Nikon cameras since film and never even looked at Canon seiously. I recently came across a review of a Canon camera and was surprised to find out that their auto focus system has 45 cross type sensors while most Nikons only have 15. So how does Nikon still manage to rate so high? It would seem that the Canon auto focus would make the Nikon grossly inferior. What am I missing? Or is Nikon grossly inferior at auto focus
If it's focal points that you want, then look at Sony.
The A6300 has "425 phase detection AF points - the world's highest number among interchangeable lens cameras - that are densely placed across the entire frame."
Nov 28, 2017 21:18:42 #
(Panorama)
Forgive me, it was the only camera I had with me on the hike that day. Three iPhone photos stitched together in Microsoft ICE. Looking east from Scottsdale's McDowell Mountains.
Nov 28, 2017 18:31:14 #
The D7200 did not exist when Elements 9 was released. You will need a newer version for D7200 raw files. JPG files should be okay.
Oct 13, 2017 19:54:09 #
I use the Foliage Network to keep track of leaf color. They have reports for the southeast. Not that much change from year to year, so their archived reports are good for anticipating peak color week.
https://www.foliagenetwork.com/index.php
https://www.foliagenetwork.com/index.php
Sep 27, 2017 15:46:13 #
Google usually has the answer, maybe several answers. I found this:
http://petapixel.com/2015/06/24/this-preset-pack-brings-real-dehaze-to-lightroom-6-1/
http://petapixel.com/2015/06/24/this-preset-pack-brings-real-dehaze-to-lightroom-6-1/
Sep 18, 2017 20:24:55 #
The AF-P lenses will work fine on your D7200. However, these lenses do not have an on/off switch for the VR. Fully compatible cameras allow you to turn VR off through a menu item which might only be available in a recent firmware upgrade. For the D7200, you can not turn off the VR and there is no firmware upgrade with that capability. You have to leave VR on at all times.
Aug 16, 2017 23:37:56 #
You are not focused on the sun. You should be able to clearly see a sunspot right now. Auto focus can work, but it can be difficult to lock on to the low contrast solar disk. I find ISO 100, 1/100 sec at f8 works pretty good with my filter.
Aug 6, 2017 13:23:59 #
You'll want your passports since the best views are from the Canadian side. Also make sure you get one of the new Canadian $20 bills - very strange! If you want to do the "maid of the mist" boat ride, you should plan on doing that from the Canadian side. The Canadians let you make advance reservations for the boat, American side boat is often a very long line, especially in the afternoon. They have fireworks during the week but not on weekend nights.
Aug 5, 2017 18:45:26 #
Try B&H. I received filters and glasses in this week. Still in stock.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1312580-REG/lunt_solar_systems_bh_eclipsegls5_b_h_eclipse_glasses_5_pack.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1312580-REG/lunt_solar_systems_bh_eclipsegls5_b_h_eclipse_glasses_5_pack.html
Jul 20, 2017 20:31:57 #
chaman wrote:
This is a good example of the gear producing a subpar image. The settings all seem to be correct, exposure is fine and the image comes out like this. Sometimes gear matters and I think this is a good example of that. Some here hesitate to blame the gear but that was the limiting factor in this case. As said before nothing seems sharp but it was probably in focus. The optics did the best they could but it was not enough.
The ISO is okay. Unfortunately, I think these photos just show the limitations of the Canon SX60 when used at maximum focal length. Backing off the max focal length might improve image quality a little bit. But a bridge camera is not going to give DSLR results.
Jul 18, 2017 20:11:40 #
LestheK wrote:
Need help. I am going to SC for the eclipse. I have a Nikon D80, a Sigma 75-300 zoom. Aperture 4.5-22. I have a 1.7x teleconverter and a solar filter. Problem is what settings do I use for the partial and full eclipse. Do I use the teleconverter or should I get a 2x. Thanks
For this once in a life time experience, I recommend you spend $10 and get this book on photographing a solar eclipse. Lenses to use, settings, etc., it's all in here.
http://www.amazingsky.com/tablet/eclipsebook.html
Since you already have a solar filter, then you can be taking practice shots of the sun right now. Finding the sun in the viewfinder and focusing on the mostly featureless solar disk is a lot harder than it sounds. Good luck. But don't get so wrapped up in the photography that you fail to just enjoy the experience. There will be lots of pictures available from other folks.
Jul 10, 2017 23:39:36 #
I think the sun should be white. The yellow-orange color that I get comes from my filter. But it looks like you are not in focus, and you may be overexposed. There is a very large sunspot currently close to the center of the sun. I don't see it at all in your image. You might want to check this NASA website for current solar images. That way you'll know what you are looking for. What I get looks like the NASA "HMI Intensitygram - Flattened" image near the bottom.
http://sdo.gsfc.nasa.gov/data/
http://sdo.gsfc.nasa.gov/data/
Jul 9, 2017 15:02:01 #
edgorm wrote:
. . . and I even have trouble with the utilities. Help please.
The safest action is to take your HD to an expert and have them recover your photos for you. If they were once on the HD and have been deleted, then they are almost certainly still there. You just can't see them without the proper utility.
Jul 4, 2017 23:24:48 #
This is what I use with my Nikon. Takes AAA batteries. Very reliable over long distance (>100 ft). $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-RW-221-Wireless-Shutter-Release/dp/B0049H6G7Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499224967&sr=8-3&keywords=pixel+oppilas+rw-221
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-RW-221-Wireless-Shutter-Release/dp/B0049H6G7Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499224967&sr=8-3&keywords=pixel+oppilas+rw-221
Jul 2, 2017 23:55:46 #
JimH123 wrote:
In a normal static scene, you are not going to see any difference in 12-bit vs 14-bit. There needs to be some heavy processing done . . .
I agree with this. I've been switching to RAW 12-bit compressed when I need to maximize the frames per second that I can shoot AND write to the SD card. The 12-bit file is about half the size of the 14-bit, and that makes a big difference in continuous shooting with my D7100. I can't tell the difference in image quality as long as the exposure is reasonably close to being correct.
Check out some comparison photos here: http://photographylife.com/14-bit-vs-12-bit-raw