Any camera with a "Program" or "Auto" setting and Auto Focus is Point-and-Shoot any time a P&S is wanted or needed. The better the camera, the better it will P&S. The difference is that better cameras can do much more than P&S while a lesser camera may be better off left on "Auto".

I often leave my cameras ready to P&S. If I pick one up and don't want P&S it only takes a second to set it back to Manual.

This notion does not take size into consideration.

Happy New Year!!!

Seems like Thomas902 and selmslie both have it right.

It is totally possible to import a single-capture raw into LR, change the exposure 2-3 times and export 2-3 tiffs with different effective exposures. The tiffs can then be merged into a single HDR image with software. I *think* this is effectively what happens under the covers when a single raw is fed to Photomatix because Photomatix does not produce a raw HDR file.

It is also possible and desirable to shoot bracketed exposures, import them into LR, and have LR produce a raw HDR merge. This is a useful workflow when the objective is a raw HDR file but it only works if the shooter had the luxury of time when the shot was made. It is very nice to edit the resulting HDR as a raw file but it takes extra PP time. The resulting HDR could also be exported as a tiff and sent to a non-raw editor for finishing. I think Photomatix would also do this, and faster, but without raw output if that matters.

Zone edits to an exposure can also be done on a single shot using a raw editor like LR, but a merge method would be faster and probably more effective.

As always, the trick is to use the right method for the circumstances.

(Thomas902 - my original answer way up in this thread was aimed at casual shooters. If a shooter depends on SOOC jpgs it is useful to understand in-camera HDR .)

Cheers and Happy New Year!!!

When PS updates on my computer it leaves the old version in place. In fact, if I forget to move or delete the old version I have to be careful to run the new one and not the old one. I use a Mac but it may work the same way on a Windows machine. Look around in the Program Files folder under Adobe.

I have the original Arca-Swiss ball head on carbon fiber Manfrotto legs. I perch an a6300, D700, and Z7 on it with F-mount 70-200 and 80-400 zooms. There is absolutely no problem being steady and the A-S head handles the combinations like a dream.

If you don't need the rotating pan clamp over the top of the ball, then an Arca-Swiss can be had for under 300. A Really Right Stuff ball head also handles a big DSLR with long lens attached.

Try that shot with a circular polorizer filter. Take 4-5 shots with the polorizer rotated to different positions. One of the shots is almost certain to give you a better starting point in Lightroom.

If my shoes were all the same brand and type, I'd like a lever clamp - but my shoes are NOT a matched set so the knob clamp works best for me.

That's the point. All the camera does is crop. Its not really any kind of zoom at all, and crops are more flexible and effective in Post Processing unless one does not have the tools.

Only reason I can think of to use digital zoom is if there would be no way to crop the image later in a photo editor. Otherwise the photographer can make a more creative crop later in an editor than the camera ever could on its own.

Hard to beat a good quality dedicated macro lens in the 60mm to 120mm range. But, apart from a bit of inconvenience an extension tube on a prime lens you may already have will yield very good results.

Test. Thanks for ignoring.

I'm new enough to UUH that I don't understand the difference between these posts for viewing and posts that can be downloaded.

These files are 2048 pixels on the long side. The original images are between 6K and 8.5K wide so there is plenty of content to export and post without up-sampling. Of course then you might see all my mistakes! :)

Most likely alder or maple with fall color and golden hour sunlight.

There might have been a 6-stop ND on the next to last image. All others are circular polarizer and ISO 64. Shutter speeds mostly 0.5 to 1.0 seconds except 3 seconds on number 7.

Made several fall trips to the Rainier National Park and Olympic National Park areas around Western Washington. The result is this collection of water studies with some rain forest ambience thrown in. All shots Nikon Z7 with Z mount 24-70 f/4 or F mount 70-200 f/2.8.

Been using 15" MacBook Pros for about 9 years. Both Core i7s. Ram has varied between 4 and 16gb. Premium video option. Any amount of storage will work but more is better. My camera sensor is up to 45mb now, and the MacBook continues to run with little hesitation. A middle-tier MB Pro will perform well out of the box without worrying about upgrades. The performance has been a pleasant surprise after 20+ years of desktop and laptop Windows machines.