I traveled from Florida to Philadelphia a month ago and returned to Tampa a week later. I carried on two Nikon D7100's, 8 lenses, 6 batteries. I carried the cameras, lenses and strobes (2) in my carryon bag. I took all of the batteries out and put them into ziplock baggies (8 Nikon batteries and 24 Penlight batteries). I opened the bag at security in Tampa and he look then said "Fine, thanks! Do NOT run them through the X-Ray, they are fine!". My clothes were also in the bag and all went into the overhead as the bag was too big under the seat. Frontier tried to charge me $40 for the bag in the overhead so I offered to allow them to put it under the seat as they had assured me at the gate that it would fit. The point is, I fly regularly with camera gear. DO NOT CHECK IT AS IT WILL BE THE LAST TIME YOU EVER SEE IT!!!

You're mostly correct. I was going to reply to someone that was asking about crop or DX lenses or Full frame lenses.
In answer to that and kind of in answer to this, a crop lens just means that the cone of light reaching the sensor is just large enough to cover the DX sensor. On a Nikon FX or DX Camera, you can use either full frame lenses.. I have an 80-400mm Nikkor Full Frame and a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 full frame. I use these interchangeably on my Nikon D7100 (crop sensor DX) and my Nikon D610 full frame. I also have a Tamron 10-24mm DX, Nikkor 18-70mm DX lens and a Nkkor 70-300mm lens. These can also be used on either the Full Frame Nikon D610 or the DX Nikon D7100. However, on the Full Frame D610, it will either give a rounded edge image at the limits of the DX to FX on the sensor or I can switch the D610 to DX mode. The DX camera just takes the center (DX) portion of the FX image and ignores the rest. So all of my lenses can be used on either DX or FX... However, the DX lenses on the FX camera will still only display the DX portion of the image and gives the 1.5 (roughly) magnification. The FX lenses on the DX camera will also work but the DX sensor will ignore any part of the image outside of the sensor and will also do the 1.5 (roughly) magnification.

I started shooting film in 1957 with my Grandfather (who was a professional and took me everywhere with him). By the time I graduated from high school in 1971, I was student teacher of the school photography class and photography editor/chief photographer for the journalism staff.. That was film/darkroom days. Having said all of this, I purchased Adobe Lightroom about 6 months before they started the Cloud. It was good but could only be installed on 2 computers. When they started the Cloud, I jumped. Now I have it installed on 2 desktops here, 3 laptops here and when the wife travels from Florida back up to Pennsylvania, its installed on a desktop up there. It's very easy to control as Adobe allows either 2 or 3 active logins at a time, and if you forget to log out, it will log one or all of the logins out so you can get in.

You seem to be confused about subscription software.
1. You pay $9.99 per month for the basic Adobe Cloud which includes Lightroom CC (Lightroom Classic which is what I use 99% of the time) Photoshop, the new Lightroom CC (to me overly simplified and not as good) and some others.. There is NO additional charge.

2. You can (for the $9.99 per month) have it active on 2 or 3 computers at a time. I have it installed on 2 desk tops and 3 laptops but only two are active. If you start a 3rd, Adobe asks which other you want to log out. For me, that's no big deal because Im not at the others.. In addition all are kept up to date as you login. If you were to purchase this package (and Adobe has discontinued ((I believe) outright purchase) it would cost you a thousand dollars or more for what you get and it would only be updated for the first year. My Adobe is ALWAYS kept up to date... and you don't miss the $10 per month. Heck I spend more than that on gas, sodas or any other trivial thing.

Sure, you can go use a freebie or you can purchase some other program but Adobe is the standard that everything else is compared to. and for $10 per month, it a steal. I also use a couple of other programs for portraits and hdr but they plug directly into or Lightroom exports images directly to these.

I like it.. I carry a D7100 for my long shots. (keeping a telephoto lens.. (usually an 80-400mm) on it and a D610 with a 50mm or wider lens on it. This gives me the option of shooting landscapes or get long birding/wildlife shots. I have two sling type camera straps (the normal to wide on my left hand and the telephoto on the right) for instant shooting. But, this is my choice and everyone needs to understand that equipment choice is as individual as anything else. And ISO, Shutter speed, aperture and focal length are determined by the shot. Camera/lens is one of the few individual choices left to the photographer.

I've purchased from them for years.. Have never had a problem. I purchased a new motherboard, processor, memory and power supply after Hurricane Irma last year and everything works fine. I even purchased a 1tb WD IDE hard drive for the wife's computer at the same time.
Everything arrived 3 or 4 days later and works great.

I rarely use Auto ISO.. I have a Nikon D7000, a Nikon D7100 and a Nikon D610. It has been my experience that Auto ISO will use the fastest shutter speed with wide open aperture at the highest ISO. If I'm in near darkness and on a tripod trying to do a timed exposure (yes I know all exposures are timed but I mean a fairly long exposure) I don't want the camera to bump ISO up to 64,000 and Aperture so f/4.6 in order to get a 1/60th of a second shot.
I want to shoot at ISO 100 and aperture f/16 at 250 seconds or something. I'm on a tripod and Yes there may be waves or something but I dont care.. I want the stars or the night lights or other things that are fairly motionless... or I want those car head and tail lights to make trails... I am NOT trying to freeze an image.

Now, some cameras (mine) will allow you to set ISO limits .. like a high ISO of 400 or something.. but even that is not as good a good old Bulb using a cable release or a wireless release and manually timing it.

Just my opinion and everyone does it differently.

Any DX lens (on FX or DX) will have the 1.5 magnification issue. An FX lens on the DX camera also has the same issue.. it is because of the sensor being roughly 1/3rd smaller.. On an FX camera with a DX lens, the camera will only use the center 2/3rds of the sensor and will go into "DX" mode which will give the same 1.5 magnification. Currently, I have 2 DX cameras (Nikon D7000 and Nikon D7100) and an FX camera (Nikon D610). I have one DX lens remaining (Tamron 10-24mm) and EVERYTHING else is an FX lens.. All of my FX lenses work fine on my 2 DX cameras and I don't have to worry about them on the FX... My Tamron works on the FX camera BUT, it still sets the camera (automatically) to DX mode and ONLY uses the center 2/3rds of the sensor. I will be moving to a Wide or Wide zoom FX lens as soon as funds permit.

I have a Nikon D7000, Nikon D7100 and a Nikon D610.. (the 610 is full frame). I have a Tamron 10-24mm zoom wide angle DX lens. Its ok but I wish I had gotten a full frame wide zoom. It is an okay lens but isn't the best or even in the top 5 or 6.

Also, if you are using a laptop, you may be able to do your updates, etc. at a drive-in or other store that that provides free wi-fi..

It depends.. once the programs are downloaded, all Adobe needs is to verify your login. Actually, according to Adobe, if you successfully login once, the login is (theoretically) good for 30 days. The idea is that you can login with a laptop or whatever and then process in the boonies. Now, this does not include sending photos up to the cloud. I almost never use the "cloud" part of Lightroom, except to put processed photos where a customer might preview them. As for processing in the field, you can do anything on the Adobe Cloud Apps that you can do at home, as long as you have logged in that once in 30 days. This is according to Adobe... in practicality, I haven't tried to see how long. I generally have I-net access at cabins, hotels, and motels when I travel so it is irrelevant to me.

I agree.. I have both a FF (Nikon D610) and two DX (crop sensors Nikon D7000 and D7100). I love the Crop sensors with my long lenses as it (seems) to give me a longer reach.. Yes, I know that I can put the FF into crop sensor mode, but then, I may forget to take it out again. With the two, I can put a wide to 50mm on the Full Frame for wide and portrait work and put the long lenses on the DX for telephoto work. This gives me the best of both worlds.. and IF I NEED TO, I can always put one of my long lenses on the FF camera. Ohh and the D7000, D7100 and the D610 all use the same battery so I only have to carry one size. And yes I have 6 batteries and a car dc to ac power converter so that I can charge the batteries while driving (Important NOTE!!: Don't try to charge the batteries while parked with the car engine off. You may end up trying to find someone to jump start your car for you). However, the battery charger and ac converter work well for shooting with a drive between locations. Also, since my charger is AC (and I travel with 2), I can plug it in at the hotel/motel/restaurant when needed. I have 3 chargers and carry 2 on trips. When at home, I can charge 3 batteries at a time. By the way, I am probably going to purchase 3 more batteries just for insurance.

I have both an FX Nikon D610 and 2 DX Nikon D7100 and D7000. While I started with a couple of DX lenses, I now have migrated to all FX lenses. The main reason is that, while a DX lens will work on an FX camera, it will cause the camera to shoot as a DX rather than an FX.. All FX lenses and All DX lenses will work on either camera, however a DX lens on an FX camera will either put the camera in DX mode or the image will only cover the center 2/3rds of the FX sensor and leave the outer 1/3rd blank. With an FX lens on a DX camera, the camera will just ignore and discard the additional 1/3rd part of the image.. you will only see what the sensor sees in the image finder. Both stiles work well but I have (over the years) managed to eliminate my DX lenses for better built and better glass FX lenses. NOTE: FX lenses tend to be heavier though because of the better (non-plastic) barrels and work and real glass for lenses.

If that lens has the "Silent Wave Motor" SWM built in then it is fine. If not then it will not focus or change apertures automatically. If I read the Nikon Lens Comparison chart correctly... that lens should be good. I would verify though.

I failed to mention that the Compact (Compac?) Flash cards that I had for my Nikon D70s were nothing but trouble.. bent pins in the camera, failing cards, etc. But these were cards from the Nikon D70s era and a lot has changed in card capacity and dependability. As I said in my other post... my SD cards have all functioned well... I've only had one small card that failed and it wouldn't format so there was no lost data.