Action sports almost has to be JPEG because of the file size. Most editors want the pictures right after the event, and RAW would take forever to upload, as well as filling up the cards quickly.

BTW, why isn't $30 per shot entirely reasonable, if not downright cheap? Several hours work and the skill involved?

Correct me if I'm wrong, and I am sure some will, but aren't we buying professional images of an event?? As long as the quality is good and the contract is adhered to, what difference does it make if they are JPEG or RAW? It's implied that RAW can be modified to a greater extent, but no photographer I know wants their pictures changed.

Don't know about sorting by subject matter automatically, but Photo Mechanic allows lightning-fast review of the photos in a file. Only $150, best software buy out there if you need to review lots of pictures quickly.

We need a lot more pictures of the models to properly evaluate the lens. :-)

Rick at Discount Camera Repair.com

I have this same system, and it's fantastic for sports photography when you have to travel. The small hard drive can be gotten around by using external hard drives to store pictures. Most pros seem to have Apple Macbooks. If you don't need to haul the computer around, the very best for photography, IMHO, is the 27" Imac. The big screen is fantastic for photo editing.

One caveat: If you are a lifetime PC user, the transition to Mac can be a bit daunting.

I started with a Nikon 5000, and it was a great choice. I have better cameras and lenses now, but I still miss the articulated screen the 5000 series has. I would take a look at the D5300 if I were you.

Talk to Rick at Discount Camera Repair. Might be able to fix it cheaper than replacing it.

I have a macbook pro retina and a 27" IMAC non retina. I don't see a lot of display quality difference. The IMAC is an awesome photo editing computer because of the size of the display.

Buy the largest, fastest of each card that you can afford, to state the obvious. But, here's a tip someone will thank me for, one that has saved my sports shooting assignment more than once: Set the second card for backup in case of card failure. If you run out of card space, and don't have a spare with you, you can always pop out one card, and format the card which is still in the camera, and resume shooting.

One caveat. The lens is great, no question. However, in my business, mostly sports photography, the lens sits in my lens cabinet most of the time. I find that there is very little that I can't do with my 24-70mm and much cheaper and lighter wide angle prime lens. If you do landscapes primarily, I think it would be your go-to lens. Otherwise, I would not be quick to buy the 14-24mm just to have the trinity. Just my $.02

With that much light, why so slow a shutter? Try at least 1/800.

I shoot sports almost exclusively.With a monopod, I have VR off always on my 70-200mm. With my 400mm 2.8, I try to use it for long shots, but it autofocuses slightly faster with it off, so it depends. Just my $.02 and nothing more.

I have the 28-80 macro, and I can tell you that it's a killer lens for extreme close-ups. At $40 it's a steal!!!

Dave, unfortunately my experience has shown that there are always Lighthouses, or their ilk willing to ruin things for those of us who are trying to learn in good faith.

Mine is also made in china, but the build quality is OK. It's low-light killer!