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Posts for: steveg48
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Dec 28, 2019 08:12:22   #
burkphoto wrote:
Avoid gaming monitors (too bright and contrasty for photography)

Try to get 10-bit color

Try to get 100% coverage of sRGB, 99% coverage of Adobe RGB, and 100% coverage of P3 ICC color spaces

QUALITY starts at $350 and up

Get a calibration kit from X-Rite or DataColor if one isn’t included with your monitor (software and colorimeter or spectrophotometer)

BenQ, NEC, Sony, Eizo...


I suggest that in-plane-switching (IPS) is also an important feature. If you change your viewing angle , what you see doesn't change.
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Dec 10, 2019 07:55:09   #
CindyHouk wrote:
I have accidently turned on or left the bracketing feature on and this would happen. 1st and 2nd photo might be fine but the next one or so would be blown out depending on the settings.


Me too
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Nov 25, 2019 07:39:30   #
camerapapi wrote:
Understand that Picture Control actually modifies only the JPEG files. If shooting RAW data Picture Control can be modified in post.
I have my cameras set to Standard.


It also affects what the live view lcd displays. If you want a final black and white output from your raw file, it might be helpful to use monochrome picture control to help you visualize what the final image may look like.
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Nov 25, 2019 07:19:38   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
If you shoot RAW, the picture control is immaterial. It can be modified in post.

Ask yourself instead: why are you shooting both RAW and JPEG?

Other camera settings that are immaterial to the RAW shooter: White Balance and Color Space. Consider just using the camera's Standard picture style, Auto-WB and sRGB colorspace. Your JPEGs will be good enough, if you continue to capture these too, and your RAW has a 'good before' reference for your editing. Your editor determines the colorspace as the RAW file is colorspace independent.
If you shoot RAW, the picture control is immateria... (show quote)


Not exactly true. If your camera has a live histogram, the Picture Control setting affects this histogram which is based off jpg. If you use the histogram to ETTR you might want to use a Standard setting as opposed to vivid.
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Nov 20, 2019 07:26:46   #
Disagree with SOOC. Raw is not SOOC as raw is just data, not an image. What you see on your editing screen is the default rendering of your raw processor.
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Nov 14, 2019 07:27:18   #
Photobum wrote:
Attached is the result from a backyard photo taken with an ND 8 filter which would require an additional shutter speed of 3 stops. And even though I tried various shutter speeds with and without the viewfinder covered, they all have a milky or foggy appearance. Now these are a quite inexpensive set, but I at least thought I'd get better results than this. Oh, the filters are 3 inch square, rather than the screw in kind. Any suggestions would be most helpful. Ken


I just had similar problem. I just took two consecutive images- taking filter holder off and then replacing in between. One good, one hazy. No change in light conditions. I have had light leaks before-am using 16 stop filter.
1. Best practice is to cover viewfinder to prevent light from entering.
2. Filters should have gaskets around the edges.
3. Put 'camera raincoat' over camera and lens
4. Use gaffer tape
I am not happy with my Lee filter holder. It attaches very loosely to the adapter ring. Am concerned it will fall off. It is hard to prevent light from leaking around 100 mm filter edges. I have become aware of a filter holder that has end caps that look like they would do a good job of preventing leaks. Have read reviews and am concerned that the attachment will also be sub-optimal. But I think it will be better than the Lee holder. Here is a link. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1291990-REG/formatt_hitech_fc100holk_100mm_firecrest_filter_holder.html
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Jun 22, 2019 06:18:19   #
I had an experience where I called up B & H because I lost a lens hood for a Samyang fisheye lens that I had purchased at B & H. I did not see it for sale as an accessory on their website. They said they do not carry it and that I would have to call the distributor. However, they gave me the phone number to call. The distributor was very helpful and I was able to purchase the lens hood from them.
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Jun 20, 2019 16:51:33   #
Soul Dr. wrote:
Sharpen should always be one of the last things to do in PP.

will


Not exactly. There are 3 types of sharpening: capture, creative, output.
Capture sharpening should be done first to compensate for the demosaicing process in the camera.
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Jun 2, 2019 14:15:37   #
pesfls wrote:
Check and see if you accidentally activated the digital teleconverter


Yes. That was it. Thanks for responding so quickly
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Jun 2, 2019 12:21:48   #
See attachment.
How do I get rid of the white rectangle?


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May 29, 2019 16:37:57   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Adobe sent me an email about that because they're concerned about the confusion. I wouldn't say it's fake news as much as misinterpretation of Adobe's announcement. They are still offering the $9.95 plan, but they are also offering something for $19.95, and they would naturally prefer that people buy into that plan.


The $19.95 plan is not new. It has been offered for a long time.
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May 3, 2019 14:52:02   #
larryepage wrote:
I'm sure that rmalarz will reply for himself, but I will answer your question from my perspective.

I used a D200 for years. When I bought it, it was probably the best Nikon DSLR available other than the true pro models, and, in any case, it was the best that I could afford. I was very happy with it and used it for years, even after other, improved models were introduced. But for a good period of time, it retained its position in life. It served me well while I was doing photography pretty much in isolation. It captured the images that I was after. As I tried more things, though, and couldn't make some of them really work, the question arose about whether there might be something new that would do better. So I started shopping around a little. I was retired by that time, so it didn't seem to make sense to spend a ton of money. The result was trading a big box of old film equipment locally for a well-used D300 and nice D300s. Guess what...these cameras, although still not the latest, offered me quite a bit of new capability over the D200. Technology had advanced to the point that I could accomplish some things that weren't easily possible for me before. This further widened my range of interest so that over a few years I made some other equipment advances to gain some important (at least to me) additional capability.

So the short answer to your question (from my perspective) is that the best that used to be available was a far cry from the best that is now available. That's why today's preferences often don't include cameras that were used in the past. Besides that, most of them are lost, broken, or worn out. And there are some folks who do still like to use some of the ones that are left. Some of those folks do beautiful work with them. But I'll bet that if what is available today were available then, it would absolutely have been used by at least some of the photographers of the time.
I'm sure that rmalarz will reply for himself, but ... (show quote)


I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with having good equipment. I’m saying that it’s not necessary and not sufficient to take good pictures. The time someone should get better equipment is when their present equipment is truly limiting them. In some cases the limiting factor is the photographer and not the equipment.
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May 3, 2019 14:07:28   #
rmalarz wrote:
I wholly agree. The equipment does matter, to a point. Stick a roll of 120 in a Kodak Brownie Hawkeye and a roll in a Hasselblad and you'll see quite a difference in the quality of the image. That is unless one is going for the style of photograph produced by the Kodak camera. So, people who state it's the photographer and not the camera are simply parroting some cliche they've heard somewhere. One with which I've never agreed.

Although I've not seen this edition of Tony's videos, it's probably the only one with which I've agreed.
--Bob
I wholly agree. The equipment does matter, to a po... (show quote)


How do you explain that many great pictures were taken many years ago with cameras that no one would want today?
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May 3, 2019 14:04:39   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
reminds me of a curve mentioned before about the photographer experience curve (from Photographer's Learning Curve)


Thanks for this
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May 2, 2019 12:19:34   #
I use a RRS panning clamp on top of my ballhead. Tripod does not have to be level. I only need to level the panning clamp.
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