Check with camera clubs and photography stores in your area to find workshops. If you are not near a major city, you should check clubs and stores in the nearest major city.

Go on YouTube and search for "Photography." Many of the landscape photographers that post regularly on YouTube also run workshops.

Workshops in the field very in length, cost, and physical demands.

Also check with community colleges for photography and art courses. An art course is a good foundation for photography.

Most camera manufacturers have "ambassadors" that offer educational material on-line.

BenQ Monitor.

In-camera noise reduction reduces noise throughout the frame, reducing contrast across multiple pixels. This works great where noise is a significant change in pixel value over the pixel value in its neighborhood, bit it also reduces contrast at edges (more apparent in in-focus areas), making the image appear soft. That is why post processing noise reduction is better. I select those areas where noise is most apparent, like the sky, out of focus background, and in-focus areas that lack detail, and apply noise reduction only to those areas, avoiding highly detailed areas. I do not apply noise reduction on detailed in-focus areas, On detailed in-focus areas, noise serves to enhance texture and is hard to detect. I suspect the algorithms in DxO Prime, Topaz Sharpen AI, etc. do something similar.

It could be useful as a scientific instrument or to one-up other photographers, but it would be wasted on a photograph to be appreciated by a human eye.

What is more valuable to you: The time it takes you to re-export a file or the extra money it costs to store that jpeg?

I never export a file unless I am going to immediately print or post it. I never export a file just because I think it is finished--If I look at it later, I might change it some more.

Contrast and low lighting: Contrast issues can be the result of incorrect camera settings. Have you tried resetting the camera to its base settings? Low lighting is an exposure problem. Do you shoot raw or jpeg? Do you use Aperture or Manual Mode. Have you changed the contrast setting on the camera? Do you use center point metering? Do you focus and recompose? Before pressing the shutter button, do you adjust the exposure when viewing the the image in the viewfinder or on the LCD monitor? Do you print your photos or post them on-line? Do you have a properly calibrated monitor? Buying a new camera may not resolve your problems.

Have you looked at the Sony RX100 Model III? It fits in a shirt pocket.

People can’t remain perfectly still for ¼ sec. 1/125 sec is a safe speed.

Sounds like mirror or shutter shock. Use mirror up and either silent shutter or a faster shutter speed.

Canon has a couple of free applications. One for editing on a smartphone or tablet; one for editing for print.
There a lot of third party applications for editing on a smart phone. Snapseed is one of the better ones. I believe Snapseed has both a free and a low priced more complete version.

1. No front or back focus because of lens manufacturing tolerances and mirror alignment tolerances (different for every lens and different focal length in zoom lenses)
2. With the histogram and zebras showing over exposed areas in the viewfinder, and "what you see is what you get", proper exposure assured.
3. Mirror "slap" that cause camera vibration and image softness within a range of low shutter speeds is eliminated.
4. Higher frame rates are possible when the mirror is eliminated.
5. Elimination of the mirror assembly reduces the lens mount to sensor distance, facilitating higher quality and lower weight lens designs.
6. Elimination of the mirror improves camera reliability and reduces camera cost.
7. Elimination of the mirror makes it possible to introduce an in-body stabilization mechanism.
8. The newer/better high resolution, high frame-rate viewfinder displays eliminate mirror blackout while providing a viewing experience similar to the optical viewfinder used in DSLRs.

I know that the "mirror up" mode in DSLRs can reduce or eliminate problems 1 and 3, but focusing using the back display is extremely difficult in bright light, and the process is a pain to use because of the extra steps involved and the extra time it takes.

A weed is a plant that grows where you don't want it.

Lens weight scales with sensor size. Camera weight goes down as sensor size goes down, but not to the extent that lens weight does. As lens aperture size increases, weight goes up. So the lightest weight system would be something like the OM E-M5 Mk3 with M. Zuiko non-pro lenses.

Thee D500 with the 500mm pf lens is a great wildlife and sports combo. Compare its weight to the OM-1 with the 100-400mm or 300mm f4.

While mirrorless cameras may be slightly lighter than DSLRs, if you want to save weight, crop sensor lenses are much lighter than full frame lenses.