Tom Shelburne Loc: Roaring Gap NC

Recently volunteered to take couples pictures in front of indoor Christmas trees at our club at night. Tried not to use flash which I don't like as I have not mastered. Using tripod and cable release I shot at 1/4 second to allow aperture of about 6.3 to get adequate depth of field to see tree and keep ISO below 500. However many had motion artifact and discarded - others not as sharp as I would like.Most were Ok and people happy but not me .Question is what is the slowest shutter speed to use on stationary objects or people with tripod and cable release. I should have opened aperture and allow trees to blur or accepted higher ISO with faster shutter speed. Even stationary people not stationary due to breathing etc.
Thanks!

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

In my case it is impossible to make an evaluation without seeing the images. Flash is an invaluable tool, you should lean how to use it. Many times bouncing is possible and it helps to eliminate that "flash effect."
Most modern cameras have no issues exposing at ISO 1600. Any noise reduction software works well reducing noise if needed.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Lesson learned the hard way. Get a flash, learn to use it, I strongly suggest the following book, he gives simple ways to use a flash ON THE CAMERA.
On-Camera flash, by Neil van Niekerk
https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Flash-Techniques-Portrait-Photography/dp/1608959538/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1DQY0L972J39X&keywords=on+camera+flash%2C+neil+van+niekerk&qid=1670325980&sprefix=on+camera+flash%2C+neil+van+niekerk%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-4

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

Can people stand still for even 1/4 second?

Robertl594 Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan and Nantucket

A few options, if you are using a high megapixel camera, you will need to keep your shutter speed faster than if not.
1. Boost iso. You can clean it up in PP
2. Use mirror lock up with a delay, or use a shutter release cable (you did) to eliminate camera shake
3. Use software like Topaz to sharpen image in PP.

eshlemania Loc: Northern Indiana, USA

Found this book on Abe Books for $5.26 including tax. Also the companion book Off Camera Flash for $7.49 by the same author. The books are used, but are always in good condition.

anotherview Loc: California

Learn and apply mirror lockup. This function subtracts the effect of minute vibration and resulting blur from mirror slap.

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

What camera and which lens. Modern sensors are capable of very clean images well above ISO 500. How dark was the venue? Depending on the ambient lighting and your gear one thought that occurred to me is that your lens' autofocus did not quite nail it. I've seen that occur on numerous low light situations. Were people walking around while you were shooting? I assume the tripod wasn't weighted for extra stability since you were using it indoors. Even with a camera release and tripod heavy footed folks nearby on a hard floor could have transmitted some vibration. Was the tripod carbon fiber which also absorbs vibration? How far apart were the trees? Were they in the same plane? if so, a wider aperture of f/5.6 or even f/4 would have let in more light. Were the images just of the trees, or were people also in the shot? If there were people in the images then the results you got are not surprising at 1/4 second.

Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD

1/15 sec is the slowest speed for people with a tripod, but you have to ask them to remain very still. As you said, opening the aperture to allow a faster shutter would have been wise. It also would have softened the background, allowing your subjects to stand out better. By moving them far away from the lights you may have even created a nice bokeh effect with the lights. Flash is always an option but in many cases it will add an artificial look to the scene and take away from the natural ambiance due to white balance/imbalance and hard/soft light characteristics. Without seeing samples of your situation it’s impossible to tell.

tcthome Loc: NJ

Or you could think about continuous lighting if you are not comfortable with flash & this way you know what you have & can raise your shutter speed high enough to freeze motion. With that said, a flash's short flash duration should freeze the motion at much slower shutter speed than continuous lighting, I think.

Bill_de Loc: US

Shooting Christmas Trees

https://www.ninamacephotography.com/top-tips-for-photographing-around-the-christmas-tree/

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jackpinoh Loc: Kettering, OH 45419

Sounds like mirror or shutter shock. Use mirror up and either silent shutter or a faster shutter speed.

jackpinoh Loc: Kettering, OH 45419

People can’t remain perfectly still for ¼ sec. 1/125 sec is a safe speed.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Was there floor vibration from walking?
Common issue with wood floors.
Or if near a road with heavy traffic or trucks will also cause vibration.
So many variables.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

I don't like to photograph people unless I can stay at 1/30 or faster, preferably 1/60 or faster. That said, it depends on:

> Whether you have in-body image stabilization (no tripod)
> Whether you have in-lens image stabilization (no tripod)
> Whether you have Dual IS or Dual IS II (both combine in-body with in-lens stabilization) (no tripod)
> Whether you are using IS or a tripod
> Whether you are close or far away
> Whether you use a wide, normal, or tele lens
> Whether you use a dSLR with mirror and mechanical shutter, or mirrorless camera with electronic shutter
> How still and attentive your subjects are
> Whether your subjects are blinking in a dusty wind
> How much cayenne pepper some kid scattered on the toilet seats of the church restroom... (YES, it really happened!)
> Whether your sensor can deliver quality at higher ISOs

Group photography is always a game of chance. Each additional person in a group adds to the challenge of getting them all with: their eyes fully open, attentive, smiling, standing or sitting still, not blocking someone else, etc. That is one of many reasons why professionals use off-camera flash, and generally lots of it, even in bright sun.

> Flash needs to be high enough to throw shadows down behind the subjects, but not so high as to cause eye sockets to be in shadow.
> Flash needs to be high enough to reduce the distance between the flash and the front row and the flash to the back row to reduce exposure differences.
> Flash needs to blend well with ambient light. Outdoors in bright sun, flash needs to be within a stop of the sun's intensity at the focus point.
> Flash needs to be diffused, unless outdoors when sun shadows are present. Direct flash matches the sun's specularity.

Depth of field can be calculated with software on a smartphone or computer. I use DOFC on my iPhone and my M1 Mac. You simply plug in some numbers for your camera, then the distance and focal length, and it gives you an aperture for a sharp 8x10. It's not perfect, but it gives you an idea. See screenshot, below.

People have written whole books on group photography. There are many approaches. I tried to answer your question in my first sentence, but I hate the simplicity of my answer. The answer, as in all of life AND photography, is, "It depends..."

(Download)