Thanks everybody for your help. My video card, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 w/2,048MB video memory, is not available anymore. I called PNY, the maker of the card and was told 1) to get a monitor with Display Port or HDMI 2.0 and 2) the card supports 4k. You really need to tie all loose ends otherwise it's an expensive purchase that may also need a PC upgrade, etc.
I just got a new iPad Pro 12.9" to replace a ~10 years old pad. I'm very impressed with the new device especially the Retina display. I installed LR CC and viewed some images synced from LR Classic.
Now I have a problem with the images on my PC - they are 1920 to 1080 which used to be the standard but look really not great compared with the iPad.
So I'm considering upgrading my 27" monitor. I don't print images, I don't sell anything. I've looked at, say BenQ, quite a few choices. They have several 4K monitors at a range of prices. What would be an adequate monitor other than having 4k resolution? It doesn't have to be a BenQ, just any make that offers quality monitors.
Thanks in advance, Sam
WarpedWeaver wrote:
Creative Live has a "fast start" camera guide for the D7500 taught by John Greengo. It is currently on sale for $19. The name of the classes are misleading; there are 26 lessons on the functions of the camera and PDF information you can print out for reference. He is an excellent educator and when you finish you will know what your camera is all about.
https://www.creativelive.com/class/nikon-d7500-fast-start-john-greengo?via=autocomplete
I have this guide for my Fujifilm XT-2 and go back to it often if my memory fails me.
Creative Live has a "fast start" camera ... (
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I second John Greengo's guides. I have several of his "Fast Start" classes, the best way to dive into a new camera.
Thanks everybody for your help. You're right - clicking on the actual, physical power button does it. I did go to Apple Support and that's when the proverbial bulb lit up in my head!
The app I was trying to get is a new one for me - Lightroom CC, the cloud version, so it wasn't on my previous pad.
On a different note, I'm amazed by the iPad Pro. The images are incredible, it's very fast so it should last me for a long time.
I had an earlier post about iPad Pro and using it for viewing, post-processing with Lightroom.
Well, I got it and it's a major improvement over my ~10 years old iPad.
I'm stuck on how to get an app. I tried getting Ligthroom for iPad but couldn't go beyond the "confirm with double click" message. I double clicked everywhere I could think of, but so far, no luck. Double clicks on the message button or the blinking left upper corner message didn't do it.
I tried youtube videos w/o success. I'll go to Apple's support if needed unless some UHHoger knows the trick.
Thanks in advance,
Sam
billt1970 wrote:
I LOVE OP/TECH USA products and have been using them for years. My go-to is their Pro Loop Strap, worn cross-body, leaving the DSLR dangling at my fingertips ready to grab and shoot. Their products are modular and meet all your criteria, including price.
Check out https://www.optechusa.com/straps.html
Best Regards,
Bill Taylor
Gambrills, MD
I second OP/TECH straps. I use them on my 2 camera bodies, much better than the strap that comes with the camera bodies.
Retired CPO wrote:
I don't know if you have ever been on a African Photo Safari. It sounds like you have not. The customer is NOT in charge. The driver/guide is. And his liscense is on the line every day. It would be very easy for the situation to evolve just like the Op described. Elephants can appear and disappear in the bush like ghosts and when they appear out of the bush close to a vehicle, THEY are in charge. Believe me, I didn't appreciate the cheap shot at PRESIDENT Trump, but I have no doubt that this scenario could have been exactly as presented.
I don't know if you have ever been on a African Ph... (
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I'll second that. I've been on a safari; you have no say as to where you go, it's the guide's and driver's responsibility to get you there safely w/o disturbing the animals.
This was a cheap shot at both the OP and the President.
duckfan48 wrote:
I always use iPads in the field. A iPad 10.7 air connected to camera for the screen. Then For a quick edit and upload, I use my older 10.5 iPad pro with 256g. Storage small but I picked up a LaCie 2tb copilot, I do the edit Make a folder then move to the drive. Afterward load onto the PC for PS. But if there’s more needed before I get back, I have an older 12.9 pro with Affinity. It’s 1tb, and I only load RAW there. But I also load to the copilot for PP at home if can wait. I’ve had the Copilot for about a month and really glad I spent the money. I am waiting for the newer 12.9 iPad Pro To upgrade to. The card reader, yes definitely stick with apple, and you can order online Direct from Apple. Personally unless my dog gets loose I will not walk into a Best Buy. Even if they are giving stuff.
I always use iPads in the field. A iPad 10.7 air c... (
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My workflow is done on the PC at home. I take a lot of images on trips (2-3 a year) but do no editing while traveling. My insurance is multiple SD cards which I switch frequently; so far I have had no problems, no losses. I'll go for the newest 12.9 Pro version, the 2020 one, Wi-Fi only since any image work will be done at home. The 2020 version has some advantages over the 2018 one, mainly 2 back cameras, improved AR according to B&H. I usually go for the latest and greatest then keep the device for a long time.
Thanks again everybody, this has been an interesting and informative discussion.
Thanks to all that responded with excellent advice. A couple of clarifications - I download my images to an internal PC drive which is backed every week to 2 external drives. All my editing is done on the PC.
My idea is to be able to sit downstairs or in the yard and do some additional editing, viewing on the iPad. The heavy work is still going to be on the PC with the large monitor.
I go on several trips every year (this year is, obviously, an outlier) using several SD cards. I switch cards every couple of days, trying to stay at below 1k images per card. So far no card has gone bad but I want to make sure that any loss will be minimized. I don't download anything during the trip but may want to do that in the future with the new iPad.
I understand that I'll use LR Classic on the PC and LR CC on the iPad. The images will be synchronized between the PC and the iPad. So, in summary, the iPad will be an addition, not a replacement to my post-processing workflow.
Again, thanks to you for helping me here.
I have a ~10 years old iPad that's outdated. I'm considering replacing it with the newest iPad Pro 12.9" model. I would like to start post processing my images (Olympus E-M1 Mk2, Canon R, both RAW) with Lightroom on the new pad. I'm currently doing the PP on a PC using LR Classic.
My questions for those UHH members with the experience -
1) Which LR version should be used on the iPad?
2) Do I need to store my images on both PC's hard drives and on the iPad?
3) Is it possible to access the PC images from the iPad?
4) How can I download images from SD cards to the iPad, i.e. what accessory do i need for that task?
I signed up with them right away and haven't been disappointed. Yes, you need to pay the CC balance in full to avoid hefty interest charges but I do it anyway for all my credit cards. I don't buy anything unless I can pay it, period.
I just bought a lens & filter for over $400. This will be paid in full.
The savings are real, you get a discount from B&H for the sales tax amount AND your state gets the tax. It's a win-win for everybody, including B&H.
jayluber wrote:
My buddy Eric Gail introduced me to this technique of using the camera's internal multiple exposure capabilities to capture landscapes in low light where artificial illumination is not practical or desired. The result is a stacking of the light from consecutive images - but the result is almost noiseless - depending on the ISO used. My buddy has a program on his card that lets him use the multi exposure capability but he can also change the ISO of each capture. He then uses an ISO of 100 for the last take and that eliminates all noise. My Canon will not let me change ISO on each of the multi photos.
Here is an example photo I shot last night showing a friend how to do it. It is not a great (or even good) photo - but it is a good example of what can be done.
It was after 10:00 at night, almost full moon and I was shooting across a desert landscape with some homes in the far background with lights on. It was black from my location to the homes in the back. I coul dnot see the clouds with my naked eye. Canon 6D, Canon 24-105 f4 L. It is single photo direct from the camera derived from 6 photos at 2 sec, f4, ISO 400.
The photo is virtually noiseless and the foreground is nicely illuminated with great color transmission. You can even see stars in the sky. This is a great way to photograph at night and for milky way by doing the multi exp on the foreground and a shot or series of shots for the sky.
Thought I'd share with you all.
Let me know how it works out for you if any of you give it a shot.
My buddy Eric Gail introduced me to this technique... (
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How did you determine the parameters - 2 sec, f4, etc? Did you shoot in M?