Couldn't agree more, except for one point. If you shoot a lot of portraits full frame will make it easier for you to get an out of focus background. I'm going to Hong Kong and Guangzhou shortly and taking my D750 in preference to a DX camera. Why? Because hand held blue hour and night shots are important to me, as well as lots of low light interiors.

Good composition!

Nice shot. While you are at it I would desaturate the reds in the sky slightly and crop to reduce the amount of dark foreground showing. There's no particular interest in the foreground details, the houses in the extreme foreground are distracting, and this would also get the horizon further away from the midline of the frame, leading to a stronger composition.

If the filter is stuck because the front of the lens, and filter, smashed against the floor (as happened to me) none of the above mentioned methods will work -- I tried them all. The filter will have to be destroyed. Best to leave this to a professional who has done it many times, but you can do it yourself if you want to or have to(look for directions online). I took my lens with stuck filter to a local camera store and the repair guy did a perfect job -- no scratches on the front lens element, nor lens threads damaged -- and didn't charge for doing it.

For flowers and many other subjects you will get superior results on your D7200 with Nikon's DX 40mm f2.8 "Micro" lens. It's a true 1:1 but has a rather short subject distance for true macro. Costs about $250. and is very sharp, very light, no VR. One of Nikon's true bargain lenses. Unless that sounds like too much $$ I would start there. For insects and flower interiors you have to keep your shadow out of the shot. It's not as difficult or limiting as some people seem to think. As you progress with macro you may want a longer focal length lens like 90mm or 105mm or more. Or you may be happy with the 40.

The 70-300 AF-P DX will not work on a D40 or on most older Nikon DSLRs. Not even D7000. Not even manual focus!

The problem is puzzling. I use both Sony XQD and Sandisk Extreme Pro in my D500 without problems. You will rarely need the extra "bandwidth" of the XQD cards unless you shoot video. I prefer them, but for two different reasons: (1) easier to hold in my hand without dropping (2) much faster transfer speeds to the computer, about double the SD

I am having to work around a peculiar problem with the initial position of the central focus point marker when the camera starts up -- way to the right side.

Thanks! What I thought about the tail. Looked more normal in flight.

Well, a snack maybe. Nikon D500 with 300mm f4 VR PF and Nikon 14 III TC.

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Nikon's newest DX lenses do not bear this out. I have the Nikon FX AF-P 70 -300 and the DX AF-P 70 - 300. I don't believe the FX version will give you better results on a DX camera. If anything, my testing showed the opposite, by a tiny margin. I use the FX version on my D750 and the DX version on my D500 and D7100. Plus the FX version is way heavier. It has a small edge in speed at the long end f5.6 rather than f6.3. 1/3 stop, hardly significant.

Get the Nikon DX AF-P 70 - 300 and get it gray market new or Nikon refurb on sale, both for under $150. Make sure first it will work on your Nikon DX camera. D7000 no, anything later, yes.

For more serious wildlife/bird photography in the 300mm range the 300 f4 VR PF is fantastic but $2000. msrp. Works really well with a Nikon 1.4 x TC too which gets you 420mm.

What does "visually as good as" as mean? In bright light resolution IS determined mainly by the number of Mpix. So a 20 Mp one inch sensor should give prints ALMOST as high in resolution as a 24 Mp full frame sensor (or 24 Mp DX sensor for that a matter) But in less light, noise becomes an increasingly serious problem. If you don't care to take photos in low light, yeah, a one inch sensor should be fine.

These are fine technically. To get sharper shots with this gear you will need to get closer. Shooting from closer you might need to up the shutter speed some. What's even more important if you can manage it is some interesting activity of the GBH such as graceful landing, taking off, facing you with wings up, grabbing or holding prey. Be prepared to spend lots of time at it. With shutter speed above 1/1000 sec you will gain little by being on a tripod, other than avoiding fatigue holding that heavy lens.

Great shots. I am wondering of you are doing any noise reduction and if so, how. Thanks.

The latest Kenko 1.4x TC will almost certainly work on both lenses. The Nikon TCs won't work on either lens. From my experience with similar lenses you will not be happy with the results with any TC on these lenses. As others have pointed out, TCs work best on high end lenses, particularly primes. I can tell you that the Nikon TC14 III works well on my Nikon 300mm f4 VR PF without stopping down. On my Nikon 200-500 it's better to stop down to f10 or f11. In your situation I would take the advice of another member who commented, skip the TC, stop down to f8 and crop.

Nice shots but the reds are way oversaturated. The Golden Gate bridge isn't golden but it isn't fire engine red either.