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Posts for: johntaylor333
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Dec 30, 2018 10:22:56   #
Johnwoo wrote:
I'm about to get a new Laptop computer, for Moderate Lightroom use how much RAM memory is needed?
Will 8 GB be enough? 12? 16? Lightroom is likely the most demanding of the programs I use.
Thanks in advance for the opinions of you users.
John


I would check how many memory slots are on your system and only use half, so that you can add more later if needed. System builders often fill all the slots as smaller memory sticks are typically cheaper per GB.

Remember that all the memory needs to be the exact same specification and the only true safe way to expand memory later is to buy the EXACT same sticks again.

Given all this, and the low cost of RAM these days, I would suggest going big - at least 16 GB
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Dec 29, 2018 08:27:10   #
The Pro-10 is good. So is the Pro-100.

The biggest differences are that the -10 uses pigment inks and the -100 dye inks. The Dye inks Canon uses have been tested to have useful lives of many decades and are great with the possible exception of real archival prints for museums. The quality of the -100 prints is wonderful and my sporadic use -100 has not clogged once in 3 years.

The biggest difference is price. If you wait for one of the frequent sales, you can get a -100 with 50 pages of 19x13 paper for around $100 after MIR (right now the -100 at B&H is $110 net, the -10 is $379; prices/MIR good to 12/31)
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Dec 29, 2018 08:18:58   #
My personal suggestions:

The Getty Museum (must reserve, free)
Venice and other beaches
San Diego - well worth the effort as it is soooooo much nicer than LA. Less traffic, smog and crime. Great things are La Jolla Cove, Balboa Park, the Zoo, the Wild Animal Park, Sea World, the Gaslamp Quarter (downtown), the beaches (particulary Wind'n'sea, Pacific and Mission for surfing, rollerblading, people watching)
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Dec 28, 2018 10:05:41   #
Canon AE-1
Canon Rebel xxxx
Canon EOS 20D
Canon EOS 40D
Canon EOS 60D
Canon EOS 80D
Canon EOS 6D
Canon EOS 7D Mk II (my wife's)
Canon EOS 5D Mk IV
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Dec 23, 2018 09:05:54   #
PHRubin wrote:
I'm sure it depends on how you look at it. My computer can only display 1152 X 864, or about 1 MP, so on it I'll never even see the difference between my old 8 MP camera and my newer 24 MP camera UNTIL I blow a photo up for cropping.


I think if you take a high resolution image (say 20MP) and display it on your monitor it would look better than a 1MP image taken with the same camera/lens.

It comes down to sub-pixel performance and contrast. Can't remember all the details as I was working in the image processing field over 30 years ago!
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Dec 23, 2018 08:53:19   #
AndyH wrote:
True, but not the only method. In addition to searching on the Hog, checking their warranty page and looking for references to manufacturer's guarantee generally reveal the ripoff operations.

Andy


The best method is go to Canon's website and get a list of physical or online approved dealers. You shouldn't go too far wrong with any of them and you'll be sure that a proper Canon USA warranty is given and will be honored by Canon.
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Dec 23, 2018 08:50:22   #
I know you are budget limited but the Mk II version of the 100-400 is significantly better than the Mark I, although more expensive.
My experience is that the 1.4X degrades images significantly less than the 2X.

My 6-penny-worth
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Dec 19, 2018 13:28:41   #
There are many scams on Craigslist.

Since I presume this guy would want payment before he ships, run away!!!!
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Dec 17, 2018 11:05:47   #
srt101fan wrote:
First, my question is NOT about Raw vs JPEG! This has been discussed extensively, so please don't go there!

I'd like to better understand what happens when a camera saves Raw data and JPEG files and how the Raw data is converted to an image viewable on a computer screen. (I use a Nikon D5300 with monochrome in-camera setting; I save both Raw and JPEG; I use Affinity for editing (just started!); having said that, my questions really go beyond specific cameras, in-camera settings, and editing software.)

So,

1) I understand that the JPEG file produced by the camera, saved to the card, and visible on your camera screen is based on your in-camera menu settings (monochrome, contrast, brightness, etc, etc). I've read that there is also a JPEG embedded in the Raw file. Is this the same JPEG saved to the card and seen on the camera screen? If not, how is the Raw-embedded JPEG different and when and how is it used?

2) I understand that the Raw data cannot be viewed directly; it has to be processed to some extent. When you open a Raw file in a program like Affinity or LR you see the image, so it must have been processed to some extent. In Affinity this initial "Raw made viewable" image is apparently not based on the saved JPEG (my JPEGS are set to monochrome but the initial Raw image shown is in color!) What kind of processing has taken place to give you a viewable image in the editing program? Does it depend on the editing program?

3) Is it significant to know what processing has taken place in the creation of the initial viewable image from the Raw file? Or can you get to the same processing end point regardless of the starting point you work from?

I'd appreciate any constructive comments you might have....(I'll even take "don't worry about it, go out and shoot, and just push the PP sliders around")
First, my question is NOT about Raw vs JPEG! This... (show quote)


Further to my earlier question, I found this (very software oriented) detailed explanation of the Canon .CR2 format - http://lclevy.free.fr/cr2/

It appears that the RAW .CR2 file stores the image data is a JPEG lossless compression format, very similar to the TIFF format.
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Dec 17, 2018 10:12:35   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
File size is dependent on how much "stuff" is in your image: number of colors and details. For example, a photo that has a lot of blue sky will have a smaller file size (MB) than a garden full of flowers.

(dang, 46 seconds too late to be first )


Not sure I understand. For JPEG, I understand that large areas of similar color get compressed more, but I thought RAW stored every pixel without compression? Obviously not as my 5DIV has file sizes ranging from 32 to 45MB.

Can you explain how the RAW file is structured and how it compresses when I thought I was a lossless format?

Thanks
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Dec 17, 2018 10:08:12   #
blackest wrote:
Hi all,

I'm considering buying a printer, possibly the canon pro 100s, this might not be a good idea.
I love black & white and this is difficult for many printers they tend to mix magenta and cyan inks to attempt to get gray. I day attempt because often there is cyan in highlights and magenta in the shadows.

The best printers will use pigment inks rather than dye, this tends to give long life without fading, it also tends to make for clogged print heads, actually printhead in most cases If you get a clog on one color then you can end up replacing the whole print head.

Some printers can be adapted to run in third party gray inks (epson usually) but inks can be hard to obtain outside of the USA. Inks can be often treated as potential bombs and the post service often may refuse to carry ink (almost as bad as lithium batteries).

Why get a printer at all then?

Well there is the wonder of seeing your print appear before your eyes, its not the darkroom but ...
Of course that assumes there are no blockages, in which case it's an expensive mess.

If I don't self print then i don't need to match paper and ink. The clogged printhead is not my problem, I don't need to invest in the printer ensure I print often enough or buy expensive cartridges. It may be cheaper to get prints made professionally, i'm pretty much forced in that direction for photo books.

For the canon pro 100s it's looking to cost around €450 to start (sales tax bites), So i kind of want to do this but my head is saying leave it to the pros.
It might even be possible to get a deal if i can wait for prints, they have the same head cleaning issues i would face, so a print for me maybe cheaper than a cleaning cycle. Printer manufacturers are pretty shy about the costs of running their printers, the cost of cartridges and how much they will cover. often giving typical document useage (sure lots of pages for text but i'm covering a whole sheet). Apart from the margins, borderless printing will lead to overspray which may reach the waste ink tank or just lightly coat the printer. It may be better to allow for some 'bleed' if you want to crop the paper and not have white border showing, Mats are also a good choice.

So taking all this into consideration do i buy a printer and if so which one?

Christmas is coming and i have a handy bonus in hand :)
Hi all, br br I'm considering buying a printer, p... (show quote)


The Canon Pro-100 is perfect if you want to do black and white as it has black, grey and light grey cartridges, as well as 5 colored ones.

Don't know about Ireland but you can often get it here for about $350 with a $250 cash back from Canon. Making it the best deal out there. Right now B&H has it for $360 with $250 rebate (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/893738-REG/Canon_6228b002_Pixma_Pro_100_Photo_Inkjet.html). The rebate is only good in the USA, but I presume you have similar rebates in Europe.

Good luck

I've used the same printer for about 3 years and never had a single clog, despite very sporadic usage. Quality is wonderful.
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Dec 7, 2018 18:30:51   #
ccook2004 wrote:
I have two lenses that need calibration Canon 100-400 II and Canon 100mm. Has anyone used this product? I have watched several Utube videos and think I can do it but really am confused as to how to determine the distance for the calibration for each lens. I have a Canon 7D Mark II camera. Thanks for your help.


Buy Reikan FoCal - works pretty well, including my 24-70, 70-200 and 100-400 L series lenses on a 5DIV and 7DII. It was on sale at B&H the other day - you can also buy it direct, but I got it from B&H for $90 (including a hard target). My recommendation is to not buy the hard target and just print one out on a good printer and save $20. FoCal also tells you the relative sharpness of your lens at each f/ stop - was quite illuminating.
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Dec 6, 2018 16:52:57   #
JW S wrote:
I am having issues with LR after hooking up my new monitor. Specs below

The Text of the upper header File, Photo, View, etc is Tiny .... The text throughout is much too small too! I can't find a way to adjust that. The computer monitor itself is set to view at the recommended 150%
Also ... the old monitor .... a good LED Dell unit projects LR at an expanded size ... super large!

When I disconnect the primary monitor (the new one) and reboot the computer with the old monitor... LR restores to a good size. But with both monitors connected together, it's all screwed up.

But this is NOT a problem with other programs. Microsoft Word for instance, maintains the same size print and "paper" width on both monitors.... So I think this is a LR issue ....

Any ideas???

LG #32UD59.
32" UHD 4K
16x9 aspect ratio
3840x2160
60 hz refresh rate
Basic computer specs is the Intel i7 8700k NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 graphics card with 32G memory and Solid State primary drive.
I am having issues with LR after hooking up my new... (show quote)


A 4k monitor can be a bit of a pain (slower mainly) but I can display most of a 30MP image at 1:1 and that is invaluable. I use a 32" Dell 4k monitor (their professional series for photography) and love it. Mind you it did cost $2k (less now)
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Dec 6, 2018 16:47:46   #
jackm1943 wrote:
Definitely the 24-70 on my full frame DSLR. Prior to that, it was the 17-55 on my crop frame camera. Both good mid-range zooms.


Ditto - 24-70 f/4L on my 5DIV
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Dec 4, 2018 10:42:00   #
Dbl00buk wrote:
Hi Hoggers.

I hope this isn't a dumb question but here goes;
On my PC I want to compare (side by side) 2 jpg images that I PP'd using 2 different s/w sources.
Is there something out there that would allow me to just pull up these images without
having to go through a lot of manipulating?

Thanks, Greg.


You can do this in windows quite easily. Open File Explorer (Win-E) and select picture 1. Then hit Win-[left arrow] to make it the left half of the screen. Repeat with the second image but hit Win-[right arrow] to make it the right half of the screen. Works with any programs.
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