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Mar 1, 2020 08:17:30   #
Gene51 wrote:
You can set up your folders just like you could in Win7.
It's not intuitive because it is unfamiliar - this goes away after awhile.
It's smaller on your drive than Win7
You have all the tools you had in Win7 to modify, edit, make notes, access, look up stuff, download pictures and etc (copy/paste, drag/drop, etc)
Win 10, at least the Pro version, is more secure.
You can use it EXACTLY the way you use Win7.

I have and use both and don't understand your objection other than having a problem with change in general.
You can set up your folders just like you could in... (show quote)


Very well stated! Multiple thumbs up!
Also, someone pointed out that you could get a program to bring back the start button - the button has been back for years at this point, without using the external program.
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Feb 27, 2020 08:36:59   #
tonyjag wrote:
I am learning LightRoom classic and have encountered a problem. It had been working, but suddenly in the develop module, the image goes black while moving sliders, e.g. to adjust exposure. After you let go of the mouse button, it comes back with the intended change, but it's hard to compare with the previous state. I searched, but didn't find anything. Any advice will be appreciated. LR version 9.1 on MacBookPro with Mojave OS 10.14.3.


Stuck "Alt" key on keyboard? If you hold the Alt key down while adjusting exposure, you get the black screen you describe. I have never used it with the exposure before, but I always adjust the unsharp mask using this method.
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Feb 16, 2020 13:28:25   #
Linda S. wrote:
I am thinking of trading in my Canon 5D Mark 4 and my L lens for either the new Olympus om-d Mark 3 or the M1X after my trip to Iceland at the end of this month. My hands shake and it's difficult to carry all the equipment. And I really don't like having to add a tripod as well.

Oly's new Mark 3 has a body where some of it is made of plastic; the em1x has no plastic.

I'm interested in among other things the Keystone functionality where it tries to take the place of a tilt-shift lens, which I had in the early days of owning the Canon. Has anyone used Oly's keystone function? Did it work well?

In addition, I created a spreadsheet to see what the weight difference would be between the 5D Mark 4 and the two Olympus models. The m1x with the lenses that correlate the most with the lens that I currently have would weigh more than the 5DM4, but the handheld ability might mitigate blurring due to camera shake.

Oly's Mark 3 weighs less with the associated lens than does the Canon. Unsure what to do but I know I cannot carry all the equipment any more.

I know Canon is coming out with the R5 most likely around July this year. I've read that with the 8k video and the IBIS, it will weigh more than their current mirrorless camera body, the EOS R, which weighs 1.5 lb.

I take landscape, macro, environmental portraits, and travel photos. I am an avid amateur. Never create photographs larger than 8x10. I rented the E-M1X but didn't allo allow enough time to test it.

Any insights regarding the keystone ability specifically or the overall quality of the Olympus cameras would be most appreciated.
I am thinking of trading in my Canon 5D Mark 4 and... (show quote)


I have the OMD M1 and M1 II. I have tried the keystone compensation, and it works, but remember that the result is a jpeg (you also get the raw file - no compensation there).

I only used it once or twice. I do the keystone removal in Lightroom. Remember to frame with less cropping when you shoot so you have some space around the subject - you don't want to crop off part of the subject if you are straightening it!

One advantage to doing it in camera is that you will see if you are cropping something.
Disadvantage is that you need to turn it on and off. If you don't turn it off, and you adjust for keystone removal in one photo, you will still have that compensation dialed in for the next one (but maybe I was doing it wrong). Also, if you don't turn it off, you will have a raw + jpeg for every photo even though you had not intended to.
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Feb 15, 2020 08:17:30   #
andrec1 wrote:
In mint condition in case. Column is new in box. I changed to a bridge camera and it is too much for me. Free shipping in CONUS. I accept Paypal. PM me.


For those who are not sure on this deal, I have this tripod and column. Excellent, light, and strong. Not much bigger when packed than my aluminum MeFoto travel tripod, but lighter and stronger. Rock steady and plenty tall.

With the head and column, this is a SUPER deal. Check the prices for the separate components (tripod, column, and head are all separate purchases if new).
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Feb 10, 2020 08:01:37   #
skyspy wrote:
In the attached image you can see what appears to be lint in the image in the upper left portion in the sky. I've been mirrorless cameras for over a year now and have noticed that the sensor is very hard to keep clean. I preformed a test using 2 mirrorless cameras and 2 cameras with mirrors. The camera specs were very similar, full frame with the same native resolutions. Each camera used a 300mm telephoto lens. Each camera was set up with aperture priority and an ISO of 400. The dust became noticeable at f-stops f16 and smaller on the mirrorless camera (f-16 thru f-32). The smaller the stop the more noticeable. The mirrored camera were free of any noticeable aberrations. Each lens was cleaned prior to the testing. The mirrorless camera sensors were cleaned according to the manufacturer instructions and then manually cleaned. All the cleaning did was move the aberrations around or even create new ones. Does the mirror protect the sensor in cameras with mirrors? Does the sensor in mirrorless cameras attract dust because of an electrical charge? Has anybody else noticed this issue on their mirrorless cameras? It is usually most noticeable in clear blue sky like the attachment.
In the attached image you can see what appears to ... (show quote)


Does your camera have a "clean cycle"? My Olys do (even the DSLR prior to mirrorless) and I can't remember finding lint in a picture in years. The sensor vibrates ultrasonically when you turn the camera on and it shakes dust off. The dust is trapped on a built in sticky strip, so it doesn't go back to the sensor. If the contaminant is some sort of oil or other non-dust residue, the clean cycle probably has no effect.

The people that make Lens Pen sell a kit for cleaning your sensor. Can't tell you good or bad on that, though. I like my LP, but have never opened the box for the sensor cleaner - better to leave it alone if it is not causing problems.
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Feb 7, 2020 09:50:37   #
grandpaw wrote:
I will be presenting a free class on "Understanding and choosing camera shooting modes" on February 25th in Biloxi, Ms. I have done several of classes on different topics and this time I am trying something new. I am posting a link to dropbox that will have the slides that I will use in my presentation with the hopes that it will cut down on the people attending writing as many notes and let them concentrate more on what I am saying. Each of the pages and bullet points and pictures will come up one at a time so we can discuss each one. Check it out and see what you think. Jeff Impey

The presentation can be downloaded from dropbox at the link below if you are interested in looking at it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/60pzhi1393rksnf/UNDERSTANDING%20AND%20SHOOTING%20CAMERA%20MODES%20%20ORIGINAL%20COPY%20B.key?dl=0
I will be presenting a free class on "Underst... (show quote)


That is a good idea. At several presentations by Scott Kelby, he says at the beginning of the presentation to set aside the pen and notebook. Listen and watch. At the end, he promises (and delivers) a printed copy of the entire presentation so notes are not necessary.

Your way is cheaper and easier, but be sure to mention it at the beginning of the session.
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Feb 5, 2020 08:40:43   #
dhsheffield wrote:
Hi hedgehogs

I just purchased a Sony a7Riii and I love the camera. I'm also a heavy user of lightroom.

Here's my question. What photo screening software is recommended before loading pics into lightroom?

The sony can fire off a lot of pictures in a short period of time. When shooting birds/wildlife, I'd like to screen the pics before taking the time and disk space to load into LR. What are your recommendations?

Thanks so much.

dave


1. Import into LR.
2. In library, scroll through the photos with the right arrow on keyboard
3. Hit "X" key if you don't want the photo (reject photo)
(if you change your mind on it, hit the "U" key to Unflag it)
4. After marking all the rejects, hit the Ctrl + Backspace + Shift keys together
5. When LR asks "Remove or Delete from Disk" select Delete From Disk.

You end up with the same amount of disk space as if you launched some other software and
pre-screened the photos. Not worth the time spent.
Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be.
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Jan 31, 2020 09:58:19   #
zcarxrg wrote:
I occasionally show framed bird or wildlife photographs. I like to put a sticker on the back of the frames with image information such as location, image ID, and date and also my contact information.
Does anyone know where I might find some self adhesive labels that are upscale in regards to paper quality... I would like to be able to print some basic information and then write in the image specific data as I have been doing with standard Avery templates which are sized for 6 each on 8.5" by 11" paper.

Thanks in advance to anyone who might assist.
I occasionally show framed bird or wildlife photog... (show quote)


We use Online Labels for my wife's dairy business. The online design is great and I use it to make labels for the back of photos I sell. They have an unlimited selection of label sheets and they cross reference to Avery so you can print on Avery if need be.
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Jan 31, 2020 09:51:38   #
jaymatt wrote:
I like to take interesting sunsets. That said, I was talking to a photographer friend the other day who said that if you’ve seen four or five sunsets, you’ve seen them all. That got me to thinking--is he correct?


You haven't seen them all, but a lot are the same. Shoot to make it unique.
In a photo contest I entered, the winner (not me) was a sunset, and the judge made the comment
that he does not usually select sunsets, but the winner's shot was a different take on the genre.
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Jan 26, 2020 14:08:24   #
JD750 wrote:
If you are a novice, your equipment is not holding you back and spending more money will not improve your results. Keep shooting with what you have and keep saving your money. When you can identify a concrete area where your equipment is holding you back then and only then spend money to upgrade.


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Jan 15, 2020 05:43:53   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
Littlebit, this question has been asked a thousand times here. I don't really know why it's asked so often because it seems pretty obvious to me why FF is better than Crop. FF has a bigger sensor. Simple as that. It's like the old film days - larger film is better. For instance, when I was growing up a lot of small film cameras that were cheap were flooding the market; namely the Kodak 110 film cameras. I had one and I can tell you now, that the 110 film was so inferior to 35mm film that it wasn't even funny. So just think of a FF body with a sensor the same size as 35mm film of old and the crop body as a 110 of old and you've got your comparison. The exception is that most of today's crop sensor cameras are closer to FF than the old 110 film was to 35mm film.

Also, up until recently, all FF camera bodies were built for the professional photographer in that they were built like tanks for the rigors of daily use. Today, because a lot of people asked the same question you're asking, they are building a lot of FF bodies that will produce nice pictures such as the pro bodies, it's just that they aren't built for daily use as "pro" camera bodies are.
Littlebit, this question has been asked a thousand... (show quote)


Clarification is needed here, though. In the old days we went bigger because we wanted the equivalent of "more pixels" - bigger negatives allowed bigger enlargements. But in the digital world, 20mp is 20mp whether it is on a FF sensor or the sensor in your point and shoot.

Now you shoot FF if you need very shallow DOF or best possible noise control.
I personally shoot 4/3 and love it.

Composition, lighting, subject, and exposure are king! You can get those with any camera. Choose the one that feels best to you!
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Jan 14, 2020 08:33:45   #
Silverrails wrote:
Looking to find out, as close as possible, how many RAW Images will fit on a SanDisk Pro 32gb SDHC Memory Card?


On my Olympus, when I put an empty card in the slot, the info panel shows how many shots I will get. You can also take the number of bytes per raw photo and divide into 32 GB to find out how many (which is basically what is displayed on camera info panel). I would assume all cameras show that number.
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Jan 12, 2020 09:05:12   #
jaymatt wrote:
My Lightroom will no longer recognize my card reader.

Do you think it’s a problem with the card reader, or with Lightroom?
I also had quite a bit of trouble the last time I imported photos from my phone, having to try several times. Does this point to a Lightroom problem?

Any thoughts will be helpful.


Two different import scenarios on same computer - computer hardware or operating system. You can browse (during import) from LR in the "Select a Source" window for the device you are looking for. LR is just using Explorer in the background so if you can see it via Explorer, (or whatever Apple uses if on an apple) then LR should see it.
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Jan 9, 2020 09:05:05   #
martin smith images wrote:
Like many fellow uhh'ers I enter a few photo contests in line with my favoured photography subjects, however I recently came across a photo contest which totally baffled me as to the subject matter, this is it below, does anyone have a clue what I should look in my portfolio for??

"Transitions and displacements are the objects of reflection for our call. The concept of the two terms is a recall to the “liquid” vision of contemporary philosophy. Transitions, displacements, mutations of condition are the prerogatives of a fluid approach to reality, prerogatives of a free change in the state of things that allows full organic adherence to the environment and to the context in which each subject / object is immersed . The works that will take part in the exhibition will represent an excursus on the subject, addressed both from a physical, chemical and biological point of view and from a social, cultural and political one"
Like many fellow uhh'ers I enter a few photo conte... (show quote)


If you can figure it out, enter it! You will probably have very limited competition!
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Jan 8, 2020 08:53:50   #
Ron29 wrote:
I have been considering the purchase of a Canon RP camera. While playing with one in the local camera store and turning the power switch to the off position, the auto sensor cleaning symbol shows up on the LCD. I got to thinking about the close proximity of the camera sensor with the rear most lens element. Where does this dust go? Does it find it’s way to the rear element of the attached lens? Not sure how the dust sensor technology works. In the case of the Canon RP I have read some reports that the shutter blades can create some dust.
I have been considering the purchase of a Canon RP... (show quote)


I believe there is a sticky strip around the sensor that holds the dust vibrated off during the cleaning cycle. Probably could Google "how does sensor clean cycle work"
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