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Posts for: dleebrick
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May 23, 2022 09:25:00   #
My Canon 24-105 lens took a tumble and the filter threads are deformed in a couple spots, preventing a filter from being attached. Is there a DYI tool that can repair the threads or is this best left to a camera shop?
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Feb 11, 2022 10:49:44   #
Scottty wrote:
Hi everyone. Looking for recommendations for on-line printing services. Have seen ads for Printique, Nations Photo and Mpix to name a few. Anyone familiar with them? Also, any advice when using these services would be welcome.
Thanks in advance. Scotty


I've used Nation's Photo for several years and have never been disappointed. Have usually printed up to 16x24".
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Dec 31, 2021 13:54:46   #
Nations Photo Lab in Maryland if my choice. Great quality, fast response, 1st rate customer service, if you need it.
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Dec 11, 2021 20:35:51   #
cahale wrote:
Don't use tape. Get a good photograph spray glue and some of the small binder clips. Align the photograph on the backing as you want it to be, apply the clips to one edge, pull the paper back to those clips, spray the backing board lightly with glue, wait 30 seconds, roll photograph onto backing slowly, making sure there are no wrinkles, allow to dry, then glue the small edge left near the clips. Works like a charm (whatever a charm is).


The images are already on the foam board, and have been on display for a few weeks. My question, is how to store them now that they're no longer on display.
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Dec 11, 2021 11:31:38   #
burkphoto wrote:
No tape, please!

3M Photo Mount Spray Adhesive is what I've always used. It is an acid-free solution, it's cheap ($13 a can) and it works extremely well. Use it in an open garage or a very well ventilated area with no wind. Follow directions precisely.

CODA cold mounting works great, but can be expensive.

http://www.codamount.com

Traditional Dry Mount Adhesive works well, if you use one designated specifically as safe for foam boards, and use a temperature-controlled heat press.

B&H and other major photo supply houses carry dry mounting supplies.
No tape, please! br br 3M Photo Mount Spray Adhes... (show quote)


When you are ready to retire a foam mounted image, how do you store it? I have 15-20 images mounted on foam board that are ready to rotate out of display.
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Dec 6, 2021 21:22:33   #
Today I received my order of eight 16x24 prints from Nations Photo Lab, and as usual, they were of excellent quality. However, one of them was cropped way smaller than what I had intended. I left a message on their comment chat line. In less than three hours, Christina had replied, offering to reprint the image with my intended (no crop) size, and at NO COST to me. You really can't ask for any better customer service than that. That's why Nations Photo Lab has been my go-to printing service for several years.


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Nov 18, 2021 11:43:32   #
Dan' de Bourgogne wrote:
I'm a lucky but disappointed person...(my D7200 is kaputt...waiting it gets repaired but this seems to happen perhaps in 2022!)

Disappointed because I don't understand how a macro lens works.
Lucky because recently, a friend made me a superb gift: she (Elizabeth) gave me her old Nikon D70 (full operationnel!sensor about 16 mm x 24 mm) with the lens TAMRON 90mm macro, bla bla bla.

1) She knows how I'm feeling bad without my D7200.
2) She is now using a "microfourthird" camera with a 200-400 mm lens because it is much lighter = so, she did'nt use her Nikon gear for years any more...so "weg damit".

Well...this is my very first Macro Lens! This lens has a good reputation
This evening I wanted to try that lens.
I figured out the minimal focus distance to be about 44cm...say 17 inches.
The lens is labeled "MACRO 1:1"...
Then I thought, if focused at mini distance (17"), any 24 mm long object would completely fill the 24 mm lenght of the sensor!
To see exactly what happens and to check the effectiv magnification ratio, I decided to take a picture of a "measuring tape" at the minimum possible focusing distance.

Guess what?
I expected to get 24 or 25 mm of this "millimetric ribbon" on the picture...
NOT AT ALL...I got much more...71 mm !
See the picture I took.

I can't tell this picture is a macro. At the best it's a close-up.
Certainly somewhere is anything wrong.
But what?
Does somebody knows how to handle that lens?
I just want to know what to do in order to fill the frame with a subject measuring 24 mm x16mm.
In advance many thanks for Your help!
I'm a lucky but disappointed person...(my D7200 is... (show quote)


Does this info help? The limiter is very good though. For general photography set it to full. If you want 1:1 the distance scale has to set to .29 meters then set the limiter. This prevents hunting. The range here is from .29 to .4 meters, where at .29 it's 1:1, at .35 the image size is 1:2. For normal photos the distance scale has to set at .45 then set the limiter. Be aware with this setting you can't do close up or macro but it will reduce hunting.
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Aug 4, 2021 10:36:00   #
rdarlington43 wrote:
This is my exact walk around combination. Very pleased with this lens on my 80D.


Same here. However, I was disappointed in sharpness when wide open, but by f6.3,its a really nice lens.
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Jul 14, 2021 12:49:15   #
JimH123 wrote:
Taking a walk this morning, I was intrigued with this moss hanging from a California Live Oak. It is a totally ugly mass of intertwined strands.

Using a modified Sony A6300 with one of my favorite lenses for doing mono imaging - the legacy Vivitar 55mm f2.8 macro lens made by Komine. This is a very sharp lens and just a joy to use with this camera in mono.

First image is the before, taken at f5.6, which is the sweet spot for this lens.

Second image is the after result. I have discovered that using Gigapixel AI and resizing just a little, and this case was 1.2x, has quite an effect on sharpness. I started with the RAW file and used monochrome2DNG to produce a mono DNG file. Now Gigapixel will not accept a mono DNG file, so I imported into Lightroom and then told it to edit in Gigapixel AI. And I used the "very compressed" model as the mono file doesn't seem to be bothered with this approach.

Third image is a side-by-side with original on the left and the Gigapixel AI result on the right. With a mono image, there is no demosaicing done to the image. And because of that, there is not much chance of artifacts. And I also used a red filter, so there wasn't much chance of CA forming. And since it was a mono sensor, all the pixels participated.

I'm having as much fun with this modified camera as I used to have many years ago shooting in Tri-X. Actually more fun than Tri-X.
Taking a walk this morning, I was intrigued with t... (show quote)


In the side-by-side images, I see one is .jpg format and the other .tif. So the difference is not entirely due to the Gigapixel AI treatment, since the .jpg file probably has at least some compression.
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Mar 23, 2021 17:11:57   #
bigguytf wrote:
Apparently Canon make it difficult to get Shutter Counts on cameras after the 70D. Does anybody have a good link or information to one that works for the Canon 80D?

I am using a Mac for my computer.


I use eosmsgV5 for this purpose with my 80D.
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Jan 5, 2021 09:34:04   #
bobmcculloch wrote:
For me Paint Shop Pro was the easiest to learn, been using it a long time now, does everything I need, YMMV, Bob.


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Dec 1, 2020 19:41:43   #
rcarol wrote:
I would like the collective opinion of this community for an interpretation of NIB before I take the seller to task. I purchased a camera from a seller on eBay and it was advertised as NIB. I expected to get a brand new unused camera with all cables and documentation in the manufacturer's original packaging. What I received is a camera with a filter on the lens that was overly tightened, a charger, and a battery. Admittedly, the camera was in pristine condition. However, the charger clearly was previously used since it had many scuff marks on it. There was no documentation and no cables. Furthermore, none of the Nikon original packaging was included. I intend to notify the seller that he misrepresented the offering but before I do so, I want to know how the community interprets NIB. Thanks for your input.
I would like the collective opinion of this commun... (show quote)


Have you looked at the shutter count? That could be an additional bit of information.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:39:36   #
SuperflyTNT wrote:
I have a WD My Passport WiFi drive with an SD card slot. You can use a cellphone app to control the transfer.
That's my method. You don't even need a cellphone app; you can set up the drive to automatically transfer any new files on the SD card to the hard drive.
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Nov 25, 2020 11:08:19   #
Uuglypher wrote:
Best advice? Keep the centers of gravity centered, as best as possible above and within the dimensions of the bottom (supporting) item.
Dave


Did no one get the joke?
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Nov 19, 2020 13:38:19   #
one_eyed_pete wrote:
I'm puzzled by your question and some of the responses. Was the camera and filter colder than 37 degrees when you took them outside? Did your glasses fog when you went outside? Just based on the science fog forms (condenses) on surfaces colder than the dew point of moisture in the air. It doesn't form on surfaces warmer than the air temperature. If that were the case coffee mugs would sweat rather then iced tea glasses. I'd bet you wouldn't have seen any fog on the camera lens or filter if you'd started shooting immediately when you went outside. If the humidity increased after you were out there a while and the temperature of your gear was now colder than the dew point you'd get fog. Fog/dew forms on the coldest relative surfaces. In this case your filter may have been colder than your camera which you had in your hands and there are electronics inside. I'm also going to guess your glasses and your camera glass would have fogged up when you went back inside
I'm puzzled by your question and some of the respo... (show quote)


The filter and camera were at room temperature (70 degrees) when they were taken outside. They were both allowed to sit outside for 30 minutes before shooting began. A 25 minute sequence was shot with the camera before attaching the filter, and no fogging was observed on those images. The filter had nearly an hour at outside temperature before it was attached to the camera. Within about 10 minutes with the filter attached, the inside surface of the filter began fogging, destroying the camera image quality.
You are correct, both the camera and my glasses fogged up when I went back inside.
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