I am looking for a camera bag that complies with airline carry-on regulations. I would prefer a backpack style. The one I looked at was from Evecase (Evecase Extra Large DSLR Camera / 15.6 inch Laptop Travel Daypack Backpack), but would like any recommendations from the forum.
Thanks
I agree with robertjerl. I have done this routinely in my work, but you really need to plan ahead. A recent shoot was a 3x5 panorama, each location was a stack of 20 focus points, with each of them having 5 exposure settings. My usual sequence is to do HDR first, then stack the resultant HDR shots, then use the final 15 to create a pano. I should say this is simplified by all of this being done indoors with a macro setup on a copy stand and using both Helicon Remote/Focus and Cognisys rails to control the 3D XYZ movements.
kmocabee wrote:
Mike, as a test, take the polarizer off the camera and rotate it while looking through it. You should see the effect on blue sky very pronounced.
Ha! Good point, it works just fine. That suggests that the camera is busily 'optimizing' the view I see and reducing the visible effect.
Thanks for all the replies, unfortunately most don't apply. I was shooting on Manual, it was late afternoon, the sky was clear blue with ~30% puffy cumulus clouds and, as I mentioned, I shot in every direction. It appears the suggestion that the camera display is being adjusted may be the answer. I can see the effect of reducing glare off water, but not of contrasting cloud/sky. So far the only solution I have is to check each shot immediately, then turn the ring, take another shot and check again, until I get the shot I want. Not very convenient, far less so than 30 years ago, but I will have to learn to live with it.
In addition to the regular drive, I suggest a 3TB Air capsule to provide the security of a Time Machine backup.
I would suggest extension tubes/bellows over close up filters. Since they contain no glass, they cannot add any distortion. Bellows have the advantage of being adjustable, but most have no connectors to pass focussing, aperture information back to the camera.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try a faster shutter speed to see if that eliminates the problem. I am still not clear why it would cycle unless the time between shots was precisely offsetting the next one by essentially 1/8 the time between pulses in the LED (thus bringing it back in synch every 8 shots). Testing this would need need equipment I don't have access to.
I believe this is a member of the Milkweed family: if anyone can identify it for sure, I would appreciate it.
Cwilson341 wrote:
Thank you again! I do some indoor work but usually use a black background. The white is very striking!
I used both, depending on the shot. This is a UV Fluorescence image of a scorpion claw.
I plan on a series of grasses, some more photogenic than others! I have had to reduce the size for posting
I may have completely missed it (not the first time!), but is there a forum discussing matting and framing?
Thanks
Never knew why it was called that, till I got a close-up
During my student days at Bangor I hiked and biked this area often. One interesting point about the bridge in the first photo is that there is an intact Roman bridge underneath it.
Well, after 8 phone calls and 6 emails, I finally made contact. It took about 15 minutes to establish that nothing they suggested worked. So, my options are an authorized repair dealer(70 miles away, no available cost estimate) or send it back and trade for another printer. The choices were a Pixma Pro10 or 100 at $700 or $500: neither seem like a good deal.
Yes, and not one has worked, and the Canon 'help' site provides no assistance at all. I have to say, this has been the most abysmal Customer Support experience I have ever had.
Thanks for all the feedback, but I doubt if this is going to get fixed, and I most certainly will not buy Canon again.