The camera does not know there is a mirror there, it will focus on the subject. If the camera is 7 feet from the mirror and the subject is 3 feet from the mirror the camera should be focused to 10' for a clear pictue.
I shoot thousands of HS sports pictures every year and you are correct many HS gym lighting leaves something to be desired. First always open your lens all the way (f 2.8) and use aperature priority or manual. As for speed 1/320 may give you some blur on the extremities such as hands and feet but it is usually OK. If you can get it, however, I would shoot at 1/500 minimum. If you shoot in manual you probably will have to do a lot of post processing to lighten or darken because of uniform color of each team when you are in close.
A few months ago I was in a minor accident. Within a few weeks I was overwhelmed with solicitations from law firms and one medical office to help me make claims. Interestingly nearly all were out-of-town, some 1000 miles away. I wrote them a sarcastic letter telling them I did not do business with ambulance chasers. I wonder, would taking pictures of an accident on order to get business be ambulance chasing?
MISTAKE!!!!!!!! But to answer your question, you need backups of all key equipment (camera, batteries, flash, flash cards, lenses etc) It also wouldn't hurt to have a second photographer shooting from another angle. GOOD LUCK
Why did the 40D dissappear? For me it was because of a faster fps shoot and higher good quality ISO. Also, face it be it computers, phones or cameras, anything with electronics in it will age rapidly.
I shoot a lot of night football and have noticed that the noise that looks pretty bad when editing (CS4) is usually Ok in the final version on the screen or in print.
I thought I remembered something about files could be loaded at lower resolutions to speed things up. If anyone else has seen this perhaps they can explain how to change resolution when loading or tell me I was dreaming.
Jbert, thanks for your reply. I went to this site first before posting my question here and had no luck. That is why I called Brother. I'll keep searching their site although I would hope their rep would know what is available. I was just hoping that an amature that knows programming may have written a work around.
I have this Brother unit but the scanner portion will not work with Win 7. When I activate "scan" from the computer the unit scans but it may or maynot capture the image. There is no apparrent reason why it sometimes works. I called Brother customer service and they agreed that the scanner portion would not work with Win 7. When I asked when they would issue a download to correct this problem, they said "sorry but we are not going to". I like the unit but needless to say they have lost any future business from me. In the meantime do any of you know of a solution to this problem?
I guess it depends on what you do when you edit your photos. If you use the mouse quite a bit you will love the pen and tablet. I have one and couldn't live with out it. The only complaint is that the tablet is small unless you spend quite a bit to get a larger one. Also it takes up quite a bit of work space.
Thank you very much. I estimate that I have about 60k on mine and shoot 15-20k per year. I am saving your web address
I have been told that shutter life is typically about 100k for the Canon 50D. Do any of you have any experience with this? Are there any warning signs before failure? What is typical cost of repair?
Thanks
This may be your first post but it obviously isn't your first phoyograph. Fantastic quality. What was your setup for the bee. Any tips?
I have a 18/125 Sigma wich I love. Sharper than my Tamaron. Good warranty which I used after a year or so when I kept getting a "lost contact with lens error". Zoom rotation is opposite of most other lens which is annoying.
I would buy another
Fantastic photo. If I showed this to nonphotographers they would say "wow what a great picture, what kind of camera do you have?" Believing that if they could buy the same type of camera they would get the same type of photos.
While the quality is excellent, the creativity is outstanding. I really love it.
Question, how did you do the leaf effect?
Interesting, are you concerned about the quality of your photos vs the DJ? What about friends taking photos and giving them to the couple? What if you were shooting a sporting event, would you insist on no competition?
I would suggest that this be handled up front in your contract cost outlining that you have priority when it comes to poses etc. If you are concerned about others taking and selling photos put it in your contract but don't make an issue of it at the wedding. Making an issue is a sure way to loose future business. I would try to anticipate a problem such as this and charge accordingly.
You might also go to the DJ and suggest he give you a copy of his photos after the wedding so you can post them on your website. Tell him you will give him credit and some of the profits if any sell. He may also want some of yours for his advertising.
Being confrontational on this special day is sure to cause future problems. Be cool and look for an opportunity.