In addition, All cameras shoot in RAW and then convert to JPG if that is the mode you have chosen and yes it does add time to processing. If you shoot in RAW then only the RAW processing is involved as your conversion is done in the computer instead.

If you do the noise reduction in camera then the camera has to do it for each and every exposure. However, if you turn it off and then take 20 long exposures you can then put the lens cap back on the lens and take one final picture of black. You can then tell your software to use this black frame to reduce noise in all other selected photos at the same time. Of course not all software packages have this available to them but if your delving into night photography you really should get one.

100-400 rates as 1380 g vs 70-200 f4L (non is) rated at 711 g which is half the weight. Just saying.

Yes, been using it right across my network for a few years now and am quite happy, except for the odd 3 am "Avast has updated the anti virus database" broadcast through the speakers.

Now to be clear, I also run in tandem, Malware Antibytes (paid), Super Anti Spyware (paid), MS Security Essentials (free) and Avast Anti Virus (free) All set to update daily and scan weekly and all are running 24/7 real time protected mode.

If you only have 1 anti-virus/spyware/malware/scamware program installed then you deserve what you get. Harsh, maybe but been around too long and have dealt with the repercussions of "too little too late"

Would you consider a swap with a Canon 70-200 f4L with tripod collar?

For a visual on adding your copyright and other information in Elements 11 please check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYRy1c99dGM

I hear it screaming, "reflection, reflection."

I concur.

I shoot in the RAW only. Makes for some great facial expressions from passer-byes. :twisted:

#2 of 2 (#3 by this threads standard) really caught my senses. Felt I was looking at the aftermath of a great battle. Caught myself straining to see the dead and dying in the shadows. Great shot, hang it proudly over the couch. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Nice contrasting white balances. Seeing a lot of noise though. Maybe try 100 ISO and f8 or 11. Was this RAW or cooked in camera?

#1 Moon dead center - zoom/crop to put moon on one of the third lines. Maybe lose the bottom and left.
#2 Again dead center - zoom/crop to lose the top, bottom and left of the photo. Tighter on the dogs.
#3 Good composition left to right but tilt up to eliminate asphalt and show more crowd that seems to be fixated on the car.
#4 Lose the guys and zoom in on the girls. :)
#5 Get those eyes in sharp focus and then we can talk.

While your shots are OK as far as fireworks go, there is nothing else to make them special. Maybe try and shoot the NY skyline and have the fireworks as the eye candy.

Your 4 second exposure comment regarding blowing out the photo I would assume you are referring to the fireworks and as each explosion only lasts for a second or so the shutter speed does not do the exposing so leaving the shutter open for, say, 15 seconds and that will only add more explosions into each photo and not blow them out. The longer time will eventually brighten the sky so you need to find the happy medium. Having shot from Hoboken before I found that a 15 second exposure at f11 kept my skies dark (enough considering all the light pollution) and gave me good skyline exposures.

Fireworks are a blast to shoot. Double pun intended.

Do you let the printer adjust the colors or the software?

Most off colour printing comes from both being applied at the same time. If your monitor AND printer/paper/ink have been calibrated then you should let the software, with the correct profile selected, control the color. If the printer is not calibrated then use a generic profile and again let the software control color. Hope this helps.

Glad to see you back.

IMHO = In My Humble (honest) Opinion

Not sure when 30 seconds became the recommended time for star trails but I guess it depends on who you ask. My times range from 15 seconds to 3 minutes but usually strive for 60 seconds to conserve battery power and keep the sensor heat down. I never know until I'm out there and do a few test shots. It all depends on the light pollution at your location.

If you have a built in inter-valometer then you need to use it and it will give you 15 seconds or any other time value. Forget the cable release method as it is only for use when all other methods are not available.

Adjusting the delay between shots is a trial and error thing. Your camera might work with only a 2 second delay but with today's software most have a built in trail joining (delay bridging) methods that take care of that problem.

A quick reminder that you can not view raw files directly unless you like looking at 1's and 0's. (remember the movie The Matrix and the scrolling RAW data down the screen) so the camera will cook a small JPG thumbnail so you get an idea. The thumbnail shows you what the camera thinks it should be following the settings on your camera. So if you had chosen a tungsten white balance then that is what the thumbnail will show. The actual RAW file has no such settings applied to it and awaits your artistic hand in PP. Hope this helps.