Sunrise photos: Hello everyone, Been reading the posts here for a while but haven't posted before, this site is a great place to learn - I especially like reading the tips and...

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

Hello everyone,

Been reading the posts here for a while but haven't posted before, this site is a great place to learn - I especially like reading the tips and constructive criticism you experienced photographers give each other. I've been shooting m43 Panasonic for about a year and just recently upgraded to a D7100, what a world of difference! I tried some sunrise photos last weekend following some of the tips and advice on this site, and would love any pointers or suggestions you might have to make them better.

Thanks,

Steve

FredB Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.

They look blank. :(

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

Trying the photo part again...

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

two more

FredB Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.

There you go. Not too bad. Do you use a grad ND filter? They make sunrise/set photos much better, usually.

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

FredB wrote:

There you go. Not too bad. Do you use a grad ND filter? They make sunrise/set photos much better, usually.

Thanks - I don't use a grad ND filter, don't have one yet - one of these helps underexpose the sky while keeping the foreground detail, is that right?

olcoach Loc: Oregon

Hi sshinn1 welcome. You're on your way. You'll learn a bunch. Have fun and keep shootin'. Mike

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

sshinn1 wrote:

Thanks - I don't use a grad ND filter, don't have one yet - one of these helps underexpose the sky while keeping the foreground detail, is that right?

Depends on how you use it. In this case, that's what it would do. Inverted, it can cut foreground detail while exposing the sky normally. Beautiful shots. Welcome to the Hog!

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

olcoach wrote:

Hi sshinn1 welcome. You're on your way. You'll learn a bunch. Have fun and keep shootin'. Mike

Thanks :thumbup:

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

Mogul wrote:

Depends on how you use it. In this case, that's what it would do. Inverted, it can cut foreground detail while exposing the sky normally. Beautiful shots. Welcome to the Hog!

Thanks! That makes sense with the ND filter, I may need to pick one up and experiment

FredB Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.

Get a Tiffen or Hoya grad ND sized for your best lens. You will be amazed at the difference it can make when you have a shot with a wide exposure variation top to bottom - as in a sunset, where you may have foreground details that you want to capture correctly. Darken up the light sky, and the foreground will expose correctly. However, note that their use will OFTEN lead to a longer shutter time, so be prepared.

sshinn1 Loc: Phoenix

FredB wrote:

Get a Tiffen or Hoya grad ND sized for your best lens. You will be amazed at the difference it can make when you have a shot with a wide exposure variation top to bottom - as in a sunset, where you may have foreground details that you want to capture correctly. Darken up the light sky, and the foreground will expose correctly. However, note that their use will OFTEN lead to a longer shutter time, so be prepared.

I think I may need to get one, just looked at some examples of shots taken with and without them online and they seem to make quite a difference. When I took these shots I used spot metering and metered the sky away from the sun - with a grad ND filter should I spot meter for the foreground and let the filter take care of the sky? I would bracket anyway I guess just to hedge my bets but wondering where the best starting point is.

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

Personally, I don't feel the foreground needs anymore detail. The smooth, silhouetted foreground draws all of the viewer's attention to that which is important - the setting sun and the sky. Sometimes less is better! I would only want more detail in the foreground if the foreground contained something that was detrimental to the overall image and the sunset. In this case, I think more detail would only distract from the main subject. Ask yourself if it is really that important to see what variety of trees or how many boulders are sitting in the shadowy foreground.

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

sshinn1 wrote:

I think I may need to get one, just looked at some examples of shots taken with and without them online and they seem to make quite a difference. When I took these shots I used spot metering and metered the sky away from the sun - with a grad ND filter should I spot meter for the foreground and let the filter take care of the sky? I would bracket anyway I guess just to hedge my bets but wondering where the best starting point is.

It really won't matter. Meter the part you intend to filter with the filter out of the way and compensate according to the filter factor. That's one of the reasons I like Cokin filters. On the other hand, it's a moot point with me because I always have my Sekonic spot meter with me and can meter an area I intend to filter with the filter in place. It's nice to be able both ways; it confirms the meters and the filter factor.

taffthetooth Loc: U.K

Nice photos, i've also got some on the forum today. I use av mode @f5.6 take a shot look at the speed the camera set,then go man and set f5.6 and double the shutter speed. There are differnt methods experiment and use the one you find best works for you.