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Posts for: Joexx
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Jan 21, 2019 09:58:29   #
Thanks again for all the thoughtful comments & suggestions.
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Jan 17, 2019 10:40:28   #
Quick question. Why is a high F stop suggested? Why not use the " sweet spot" of your lens, usually around F8, depending upon lens? Sharper photo, and less apeture refraction. As long as the shutter speed is not too slow, you will not get moon movement...full moon exposure is around daylight, during the eclipse of course it will be less..
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Jan 17, 2019 10:18:34   #
Thanks to everyone that took the time to reply. Some very good suggestions. Joe
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Jan 17, 2019 10:17:13   #
Yes, thanks
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Jan 16, 2019 12:11:34   #
I have a Polarizing filter that does not rotate easily. This is because I banged it into something. It seems like one of the two rings are just slightly out of round, not dented or anything. It is not stuck, but this means that it is very hard to rotate it when I want to adjust its orientation while on the camera.
Does anyone have any suggestions or tricks to fix or improve the functionality? This is an expensive B & W filter, so I really would like to fix it, or at least improve it. Thanks
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Jan 13, 2019 17:56:10   #
FWIW, I have many years computer experience. Listen to this response. It is the only really correct response. Others are trying to help and mean well, but some other comments are just not correct. Just trying to keep people from misinformation. :-)
Most important point. An in camera format just sets up directories ( quick format ). Will NOT fix bad sectors on card.

larryepage wrote:
The in camera is just a quick format and in some cases might not map around bad sectors. The computer format won't either, unless it's the full or long format, which will take quite a while. Quick Format just deletes the directory and sort of resets the File Allocation Table. It does not read or write every location. The in-camera format also sets up the directories that the camera expects to see.
I have had good success doing an occasional full format and maybe even running diagnostics in my computer, but always reformat in the camera before use. All of the benefits of the computer format are preserved, and files are set up properly.
The in camera is just a quick format and in some c... (show quote)
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Oct 20, 2018 09:57:46   #
Good advice. Especially changing
camera shops.
Gene51 wrote:
I would find another shop to buy your gear from and get advice.

There is no 4X extender, and they are TELE extenders, intended to work on relatively fast telephoto lenses, and a few select short range zooms, like the 70-200 and the 200-400. Some third party lens mfgrs make a 1.4 for their 150-600, but results are not amazing. The Tamron G2 and the Sigma Sport are quite sharp, but when your max aperture is only F6.3, adding a 1.4X TC will make that F9 or so - and many cameras have a problem autofocusing, and if they do manage to autofocus at all, the lens will hunt in all but the brightest, most contrasty light.

There are only a few ciircumstances where a teleconverter added to a lens provides excellent results - with the Nikkor 200mm F2, Nikkor 400mm F2.8, 300mm F2.8 and the new Nikkor 70-200 F2.8 FL - these are amazingly sharp and fast lenses and they work well with 1.4x and in some cases 1.7x and 2.0x teleconverters.

You are almost always better off with a lens that is not used with a TC.
I would find another shop to buy your gear from an... (show quote)
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Oct 2, 2018 11:19:55   #
You also could just copy the URL (top window of your browser) and save it to a text file. Later on paste the same URL into your browser.
For example this discussion is: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-556284-1.html
You do not say if you are using a PC, smartphone, tablet or Mac......

.
Gene51 wrote:
Save the title in a text file which you can copy/paste into a search field later.
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Oct 2, 2018 09:57:36   #
Careful, this is what I found with a quick search.
"None of the Nikon Teleconverters work with the Nikon 28–300, f/3.5~5.6 zoom lens. Do not even try to fit. The read of the lens will strike against the front element of the teleconverter and both will get damaged permanently. "
Also, look at this discussion for info.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-471112-1.html.
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Sep 15, 2018 17:30:24   #
Try hanging your platform from the ceiling. Should isolate everything better than setting it on the floor with 4 points of contact that will vibrate at different times. Hanging a weight under the platform to stabilize it further. This should work. It doesn't matter if the hanging platform moves because there should be no relative movement between camera and subject.
allanwalls wrote:
Thanks everyone! All great input. Given the (hopefully) temporary nature of my vibration problem, I'm going to give the sorbothane dampener blocks a shot. As far as attaching the camera to the specimen table, that is in the works. I'm building an all-in-one platform with a series of micrometer adjustment platforms and StackShot rail. Faster speeds and more light were the first thing I tried. They both helped, but not enough.
Thanks again!
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Sep 11, 2018 10:28:58   #
Files such as musuc, photos, programs usually will not be further compressed with any compression utility.
SqBear wrote:
I've not tried any of the suggestions here.
But, what about "zipping" the photos?
I do this quite often and it works like a champ for me?
If the photos are large, and i bet they are, try resizing them to 60% and then zip them.
Once downloaded by the other person they still can be printed to 8x10 without distortion,etc.
Or maybe I need to "get with it grandpa"?
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Sep 9, 2018 16:14:15   #
There is a big difference. A quick format just deletes the directory entries and marks the data areas ( pictures)they point to as available. ( that is why it is quick). A full format may also delete data and check every sector and/or fix bad sectors. Takes much longer. May fix problems. Depends on the camera or computer O/S you are using for the formatting software. Should usually be fine with Windows, but you could mess up things if you don't use default settings and change sector size.

foxfirerodandgun wrote:
Again, I ask this question: What is the difference in doing, and the procedure, of quick formatting, and deep formatting a memory card? Inquiring minds need to know. Thanks.
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Sep 9, 2018 04:14:15   #
This is the CORRECT answer. Also the safest. Just because you don't have issues by not doing an in camera format, does NOT mean it is true for all cards, and computers. Btw, a quick format does not significantly increase wear of the ssd, it only cleans up the directory. And also may check for bad sectors and possibly repair them.
BHC wrote:
I repeat:

Reformat in camera after each download AND backup.
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Aug 14, 2018 10:27:39   #
TBerwick.
Good advice. He probably would not have lost his data if he knew this. I have been working with computers for 30 years and unfortunately many tec support people either don't know this, or are too lazy. Hopefully your comments will help someone. I feel bad for people that loose data and didn't neet to.
I also strongly suggest backing up all important data. External hard drives are cheap and easy to set up.

TBerwick wrote:
The problem with Geek Squad, and other services like them, is that they usually don't try to save files prior to wiping your computer. Up to that point, your photos, documents, etc were recoverable. If you have any friends that are a little computer tech savvy, you or them, can download a bootable copy of Linux Mint to a USB drive, boot your computer from the stick (Windows systems, I don't know a thing about Apple) and copy your files off to another stick or a removable hard drive. The malware won't affect the Linux boot and your files will be fine unless they were infected by the malware or corrupted install, which generally is not the case.

This is just offered in the spirit of helping Hoggers somewhere down the road. If you have important "stuff" on your compromised system, don't just automatically let someone wipe the drive. Unless a drive is totally failed, you usually can recover your files.
The problem with Geek Squad, and other services li... (show quote)
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Aug 11, 2018 10:57:47   #
Gene, Good comments, I agree with you. at the very least the settings used were not correct. your suggestion of ISO 800, 1/1000 sec, and F6.3 would be much better. I also agree that it does NOT seem to be a focusing error. Like you did, I also looked for SOMETHING in focus and could not really find any part of the picture that was not "soft". With a 1/8000 it is VERY unlikely that it is camera shake. The high ISO might adversely impact several things, but I don't think it is the cause for softness in this picture. So this leaves 2 likely possibilities. Either atmospheric interference or the lens is just not very good. I am guessing you have an issue with the lens. I would suggest testing the lens inside (use VERY bright lights) so there is NO atmospheric distortion and testing it using a good tripod with various settings. Use a low ISO, under 400 if you can. I do not own this lens, but I think this lens has received good reviews and this image does not seem to be anywhere near what should be acceptable.
Hope this helps,
Joe



Gene51 wrote:
Your first image is ok, but I am pretty sure any softness you are seeing is from diffraction - you used F20 on this one.

With the eagle shot I am perplexed about your camera settings - ISO 6400, I/8000 sec, F6.3 . A better combination would have been ISO 800, 1/1000 sec, and F6.3. Any chance of recording fine detail is lost in the noise. Lower ISO, using Mode 1 on VC, would have given you a better quality image. If this was not shot as a raw file,

I disagree with the notion that you have a focus issue. If is due to a focusing error then something should be in focus. There are many leaves at the eagle's distance and slightly in front of and behind the eagle. A focus calibration issue would look like either front or back focusing.

Given the size of the eagle, I am going to take a guess and say you must have been at least 300 yds away.

The image below was taken at a distance of about 250 yds, using a 600mmF4 and a 1.4 extender on a D800, 14 bit lossless compress raw file. Even though it is fairly crisp there is no real fine detail. The second image is the shot it was cropped from.
Your first image is ok, but I am pretty sure any s... (show quote)
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