fotobyferg

OK, so I consider myself to be an amateur photographer with average skills....

I have photographed BIF with varying degrees of success using a Canon 7D mk2 and a Tamron 150-600 on a solid monopod with gimbal head (yes, I have read the threads on this particular combo and do not need opinions on that). I recently upgraded to the Tamron G2. Suffice to say I am comfortable with this gear.

So, today I took this gear to shoot some Bald Eagles, knowing that I was not going at the “correct” time of year but, since we were passing through the area, I decided to play around with the new lens.

Here’s where I will start showing my photographic difficiencies....

There was one adult bird deep in a tree branch, so light and contrast were tricky, plus I was shooting fully zoomed. Despite changing up shutter speeds (1000-8000), ISO (auto went as high as 6400, but I also set it in varying ranges from 100-400), M vs A focus, VC on vs VC off due to trying handheld vs monopod...which was braced... every shot was blurry upon chimping a zoomed image. I might add that I am still learning the 3 VC settings this lens provides.

I viewed this as a learning experience, but remain perplexed as to why nothing resulted in a decent shot. What settings might some of you experienced birders in here have used? I never did go into fully M mode, opting instead for either Tv or Av mode.

Mostly I am wondering how much those 3 VC settings might have factored in, if at all. In other scenarios I have used bracketed exposure/exposure compensation with tricky lighting but the images were crisp, regardless.

Was I expecting too much of the lens? Even shooting a distant shot of our RV in full sun resulted in less than ideal imagery. Tomorrow I am going to a short presentation on Travel & Landscape photography given by a Tamron rep and I intend to put this question to him also.

TIA for any thoughts on this....

Bill_de Loc: US

Maybe this:

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/heat-waves-and-photography.aspx
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TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Can you post some images (with “original” checked) so we can see the results and the attendant EXIF info.?

fotobyferg

Bill, that was an interesting article and may very well been a contributing factor.

TriX I will try, if connection allows from the campground.

fotobyferg

OK, so these are embarrassingly awful and totally unedited. I’m not sure which settings go with the pictures since I can’t seem to access the metadata right now.

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SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

I checked the EXIF data and could see nothing really out-of-bounds. For me, the 600mm, even on a monopod, would be risky due to camera shake. Since nothing in the eagle picture is really sharp, I'd say camera shake is the most likely culprit. You might try some shots with the camera mounted rock solid and using a self timer to rule out a faulty lens.

fotobyferg

Sony...yes, I was going to try mounted on tripod w/remote shutter release, because I am wondering if it’s a faulty lens. I have the tap-in console, but have never tried calibrating a lens...yet.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

With the light so flat and the bird so far away, it seems like focusing - whether auto or manual - would be a challenge. Does your camera have the ability to fine tune the focus with an enlarged view of the subject on your LCD?

A note about shutter speed: the eagle you posted is at 1/8000 second, which is far more than you need. That, of course, made your ISO unnecessarily high. It seems like 1/8000 second would certainly cover any potential movement on your part, that's why I brought up focusing.

fotobyferg

Linda...yes, on some of the shots the ss was way too high, but I did go as low 500...maybe lower.

My camera is a canon 7d mk2....I guess I could try focusing in live view...?

fotobyferg

(Duplicate post removed)

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Sorry, I do not have any of the mentioned optics, but I'm curious what other's have to say. I shoot BIF with a 400/5.6 and a TC, so there is no image stabilization. I only shoot hand held. I either shoot in manual or aperture priority. When I shoot a perched bird, I like to use a tripod or monopod, as hand holding at 640mm for a still subject, proves difficult to me!

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

I just re-read your request for info on the 3 VC modes. I found this:

VC MODE 1 is the standard mode that strikes a great balance between the stability of the viewfinder image and the stabilization effects.
VC MODE 2 is exclusively used for panning.
VC MODE 3 prioritizes the stabilization of the captured images and forgoes the stabilization of the viewfinder image.

But maybe there was a little user manual that came with the lens?

See if the live view can be enlarged in order to fine tune focus. My much cheaper Canon could do so

fotobyferg

Linda, the manual that came with the lens has the same description you posted. I think I had it on #1, because I certainly wasn’t panning and I don’t know what #3 actually means, lol.
I need to learn those settings.

TomV Loc: Annapolis, Maryland

I am looking at the eagle shot. You say this is a new lens, so I suggest you do what I do in such a case. I have a herringbone test pattern and a yardstick and use it to cal my lens/camera before I do anything serious. I check out the cal values at various focal lengths to check for linearity. If they are different for 150 and 600 then the camera may select the wrong value for the actual focal length you have the lens at. If your camera has one value per lens then you need the value for the length you shoot at. My Sony a99ii has a tele and wide value for many of my zooms and will interpolate between the extremes depending on the length selected.

Once I have the proper cal value for a focal length, determined at max aperture from above, I then test for what smaller aperture setting I should use to get sharper images, my camera allowing for 1/3 f stop increments. I record this value and use it for critical shots (stopping down).

I test various focal lengths and compare shots to determine if I have a focal length limitation as well. I am very fortunate with my arsenal that I do not have such issues. However, the Tamron has been reviewed many times with an observation that 600mm is not as sharp as shorter lengths (500-550). You should test under controlled conditions and this takes some time, but will hopefully result in more satisfying results once you know your lens limitations.

Long lenses used at longer distances should be used with a tripod. I have not been satisfied with a monopod with my 400mm+ lenses. I shoot with an in-camera stabilization system and still am not satisfied for these conditions.

You are using the lens at its extreme for both focal length and aperture. This may not be a good combo for the lens you have.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Given 1/8000 (!) shutter speed, it’s not likely to be camera shake. In fact, nothing is in focus with the Eagle shot, so here’s what I’d suggest. Try 1/000, f8 and iSO 1600. IS not really that important at that shutter speed, but might as well leave it on. BUT, you need to get the lens in focus. I’d suggest calibrating the lens using its tool or an accurate MFA calibration tool such as Reikan’s FoCal and using AF. If that doen’t produce sharp results, then consider getting the lens serviced. I regularly shoot at 560mm (Canon 100-400L with a 1.4x matched extender) at f8 and 1/000 (with IS on) handheld and get tack sharp shots, BUT I carefully cal my lens/camera combination with FoCal.