I think the way TimeMachine works is that the first time you do a backup, TimeMachine backs up everything on the Mac (unless you tell it to skip some parts). Then every time it runs after the initial backup, TimeMachine makes backups of EVERYTHING that has CHANGED from the last time it backed up - which in this case is the FIRST backup.

Each additional time it runs TimeMachine again backs up only everything that has changed from the last time it ran. In this way you can restore your Mac to any point in time or restore any version of a file that TimeMachine has backed up.

But as time goes on you fill up the drive with these "extra" versions of your files that have changed. And I am not sure if TimeMachine deletes from your backups any files that you delete from your Mac. So if you run TimeMachine while some big files are on your Mac and then put those files in the Trash on your Mac they do not get removed from the TimeMachine backup drive.

If (and this is a big if) you believe you no longer need any of the older backups that are on the TimeMachine drive you can just erase the TimeMachine drive and start from scratch. TimeMachine will make a backup of your Mac as it is right now.

A more conservative approach would be to get a second bigger hard drive as a primary TimeMachine backup drive and do a backup to it and THEN erase your older drive and use it as a secondary TimeMachine drive.

An xmp file is a structured (data) file that can be read by a browser. Try dragging it to the browser window like in Firefox and you will see the information in the file and can search it using the Cmd + F "Find" in your browser. In a text editor like Text Edit (Mac) or Notepad (Windows) the text will be all run together. Another advantage of opening it in a browser is that you cannot change it inadvertently like in a text editor.

USB3 ports on a Dell will most likely have this logo next to the port

You could make a foam insert for your saddlebag (like in a Pelican case) that might isolate the gear from some of the vibration. The gear would still vibrate but with less of a direct connection to the motorcycle.

I remember in college that there is a body of thought that "the problem of the rich holding on to power" was a problem of all societies with the USA being included and was not just a problem in some locals.

And I also remember that in the 2018 e******n the PEOPLE (not the E*******l College) v**ed for those representatives who are now hindering President Trump's agenda - and they v**ed for those people because they would hinder his agenda and provide some much needed oversite. I don't see the problem with the v**er's having their way. And well over 50% of US residents now see Trump's failures as America's successes.

And President Trump has proven himself to be very good at it - failing that is.

A little loose with t***h - but anything goes to get your point across. Pat Brown was elected governor in 1959. 2019 - 1959 = 60 years not the 80 mentioned in the video. Between 1983 and when Jerry Brown was re-elected in 2011 there were governors George Deukmejian, Pete Wilson, Gray Davis and Arnold Schwarzenegger. That is a 28 year span that is in the middle of the 60 year span mentioned in the video. This type of (mis) information works better in a setting where your audience is very receptive AND lazy. wikipedia.org can help if you want some facts.

I am not suggesting that the rich don't run the USA and the world. It is just that the wealthy are more often than not considered right wing than left wing by most observers.

Perhaps it is your keyboard. {geting for getting, CapitalCity Aea for CapitalCity Area}

...2 seconds is nothing when you photograph something so far away...

Two seconds can be a very long time with a 1000mm lens and a dark moon! There will be a lot of motion blur unless you have an Astro Tracker (with a lunar mode preferably). Try a 2 second image of the night sky and see how long the star trails are. The stars (and moon) are moving relative to us because of the Earth's rotation.

A simple test you can perform before the big event is to try to get a decent exposure on the dark half of the non-full moon. That is the amount of light you will be getting (maybe even less) during the full eclipse. It will require your aperture fully open for your lens, a fast enough shutter to get no motion blur from the moon moving (check out the "500 rule for astronomy") and a high enough ISO to make it all work. Last year I was pretty surprised by how little light falls on the moon during the full eclipse.

500 rule is shutter speed needs to be lower than 500 divided by (the focal length of your lens times your crop factor). So for your D500 with the lens at 600mm you have 500/(600x1.53)= 0.54 seconds. Any exposure longer than half a second on a tripod will have blur from the moon's motion in the sky.

Good luck!

With a full lunar eclipse there is very little light, unlike a full or partially lit moon. The fully eclipsed moon here was taken on a tripod at .5 seconds, f/6.3 and ISO 3200. At 400mm, f/6.3 was wide open and half a second is almost at the limit for "moon" trails {500 rule: 500/(focal length:400 x crop factor:2 = .625 seconds)}. I would have still wanted more light!

2018 Super Blood Moon

(Download)

Some things to remember:
- Assuming you are using a tripod, the moon is moving relative to the Earth resulting in any long exposure being blurry. Look up the 500 rule for astronomy to determine how long your exposure can be with the lens length used without movement blur. While the moon is in eclipse there will be very little reflected light so you will need longer exposures and higher ISO.
- During the transition to full eclipse (and back) you can get images of the shadow side or the lighted side but it is hard to get correct exposures of both sides. Chimp (i.e. check the images) during the eclipse to make sure you are getting the results you want. The lighting will be changing quickly.

Have fun and good luck with the weather!

My attempt last year:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-511291-1.html

The moon will be very small with your 17mm. Test some shots with the 40-150 before the big day for a preview of the size you want. And the moon will have much less light falling on it when eclipsing so your ISO will need to be increased. Make sure you review the shots as the event unfolds to get what you want.

Check out these two links - a wealth of information. I have yet to visit but the owner offered to give me a demo/lesson if I came in. He also gives sensor cleaning lessons at Northern California Photography clubs. But like you said - the sensor is pricey - so if convenient many local camera stores can do this. Sammy's camera did mine for $30.

http://www.thedustpatrol.com/support/learn-from-a-pro/

https://www.micro-tools.com/collections/the-dust-patrol

Try the Develop module instead of the Library module. I have had some very large stitched pano images not load in the Library module until after the preview was created in the Develop module. It may be worth a try.

Admin should incorporate this information into the UHH Search page as alternate instructions for search (with an embedded Google Search field with the "site: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com " string already typed for you). Google can be your friend and when convenient Google tries to not be evil.