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Nov 15, 2018 19:29:53   #
I can only think of one word, WOW!
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Nov 14, 2018 23:38:37   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
The active approach is to first choose the setting that is most important to your result:

1. Shutter speed for freezing or blurring motion
or
2. Aperture for depth of field

Once you've made that important first decision, you then adjust the others in order to achieve your desired exposure.

The passive approach is "If I set a wider aperture (smaller number), it will enable the shutter speed to increase." To me this seems backwards - for want of a better word at the moment - if shutter speed is of primary importance, e.g. shooting birds in flight, or creating a silky water look.

I'd appreciate discussion on how and why you make your choices, and what - in your experience - is most beneficial for newbies. Many thanks!
The active approach is to b first /b choose the ... (show quote)


My answer is simple-it depends on what I'm shooting! If I'm shooting sports, Birds in Flight, or something else that involves motion I will typically use shutter preferred. If I'm shooting something where Depth of Field is important I will shoot in aperture preferred mode. If I am shooting a very static subject, where I have the time to make adjustments, I will shoot in manual. If I am shooting a panorama I will certainly shoot manual. I also have to include, if I am just walking around looking for subjects, I will probably have my camera set for Auto and take my chances.

Per your definitions, I guess I usually shoot active because I typically select a mode that provides what I'm looking to achieve.

I have to add one other comment specific to you Linda: I appreciate your posts and your comments. You add a lot of good information to this site, you are very intelligent, and you don't enter into the ridiculous debates that I too often see on this site. All of the contributions you have made (at least that I've seen) have been useful and have added to the knowledge on this site. That's more than I can say about many other contributors to this site. Thank you!
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Oct 16, 2018 10:46:01   #
What software are you using for back-up?
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Oct 13, 2018 23:59:56   #
Yeti Bigtoe wrote:
Thanks for all the responses so far. Basically I’m trying to overcome the quandary of how to make readily accessible, and hopefully somehow future compatible, digital files for family photos for the future. I’ve heard it said that this generation will be the first in quite a while that may not have old photos of themselves years from now. It’s a bit of an issue, what formats will be still around and who can find images years from now on clouds, a NAS, and obsolete half broken equipment. DVDs are going the way of the 8 track and even USB memory sticks are in the process of changing. I figure a SD card is nice and flat which could be carefully taped into the back of a book. Besides compatibility issues are also the reported longevity issue which I don’t really understand. What deteriorates in digital memory?
Thanks for all the responses so far. Basically I’... (show quote)


Everything seems to change in time, but there are a few file formats that seem to be around forever. Those include JPEG, TIFF, and PDF, but unfortunately only time will tell. Photographic formats that I don't think will be around for decades are camera specific RAW files, perhaps PSD (photoshop specific files), GIF (not really applicable to photographic work), and others, but I don't see anything changing with JPEG, TIFF, and PDF, but I could be wrong.

The media on which those files are stored happens to be a different issue. SD cards have a chance to be around for quite a while, at least right now they are a staple, but 10 years from now no one knows, but based on what I have seen, I think they will be around for a relatively long time. There are new storage media available with almost every new camera, but, again, SD cards seem to be fairly universal.

Now to your question on "what deterioates in digital memory." Other than the quality of the device, the major answer is a strong magnetic field. What will happen in the future is a question that I refuse to answer. I have lived through tape drives, 5 inch floppies, 3 inch floppies, CD disks, and several others that I can't remember. So, at least right now, without a crystal ball, I cannot answer.
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Oct 13, 2018 23:14:18   #
Alan Wolslegel wrote:
Hi all,
Short time member with my first post here. I’ve been a long time serious hobby photog recently retired, now with more time to shoot. I’m considering trying a stock photo house and would appreciate your thoughts on which one(s) have worked for you and pitfalls to be ware of. I’ve enjoyed the great information and pics.
Alan


First you have to understand what stock photo sites are looking for, the stock photo sites won't tell you. Second, stock photo sites are looking for images that they think will sell, they also have certain requirements that have to met met to be acceptable to them, those requirement are both the quality of the photos and other requirements like model releases, no visible trademarks, etc.

Also, realize that stock photo agencies usually pay you only a very small commission on each of your photos that sell. I'm talking pennies in most cases, not dollars.

The people who make significant income from stock photo agencies typically understand what can sell, so they understand the market. They also will have submitted hundreds if not thousands of photos.

Being successful with stock agencies can be done, BUT it is not quick and it is not easy.
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Oct 13, 2018 23:01:31   #
I have to assume that you saved the edited jpeg on your MacBook to your hard drive. If you have, simply drag and drop your edited jpeg file to your SD card. If this doesn't make sense to you, please elaborate on what you have done and what you want to do.
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Oct 12, 2018 23:04:47   #
TriX wrote:
Yep, it's all about quality control. Before WW2, products from Japan had a reputation for poor quality, but following the war, they embraced Deming's quality philosophy, and now, Japan's quality control is world class (Toyota/Lexus, Nikon, Canon, Fuji - I could go on...). China is all over the place - some good, some bad, and hard to know which is which.


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Oct 4, 2018 00:43:37   #
AndyH wrote:
I’m starting to consider my next lens acquisition and looking for recommendations from the UHH hive mind.

DX mount only. I don’t want the added weight and expense of FX.

I’d like to have a max reach of at least 300 mm, longer is even better.

Prefer speed to zoom range. My Nikon 18-70 is my walk around and a tele zoom starting at about 100mm would be ideal.

I’m happy with Nikon, Sigma, and Tokina brands. Would also consider some Tamrons.

VR is a requirement.

Don’t need the latest and greatest models. I’m happy buying used.

Ideas, anyone? 1,2,3, Go!

Andy
I’m starting to consider my next lens acquisition ... (show quote)


I purchased a Nikon D5100 kit from Costco in 2013. It included a 18-55mm lens, and a 50-300mm lens along with some other stuff. Both of those lenses have been very good to me, but I didn't like to keep changing lenses, so I purchased a Nicor 18- 140mm lens that quickly became my walk around lens. Now, if I'm shooting birds, or high school sports, I will use the 50-100 lens, a few times I will use the 18-55mm lens, but the majority of times I will use the 18-140mm lens. Note-they are all DX lenses.

Bottom line is it all depends on you and what you shoot. There are times that I would like a longer reach than the 50-300mm lens offers and maybe in the future I will get something with a longer reach. BUT, right now those three lenses work well for me, they may not be the highest quality lenses available but they are certainly adequate for me. There are also a few times that I would like something wider than a DX 18mm lens but I have learned to use 18mm and creatively use it to get a wider angle (stitch together several images). It works for me.
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Sep 26, 2018 13:41:15   #
TRAVLR38 wrote:
Hi, All,
I have a question that I hope I don't already know the answer to.
The problem is isolating the foreground and creating a blurred background for sports (soccer, volleyball, football, etc.) with a MFT camera, Olympus OM D M10ii, to be precise. I have ordered a Zuiko Pro f/2.8 40-150 lens, but am not able to get the separation I want. This lens has marvelous IQ, but is ungainly for a walk around lens. It is well within the time period in which I can send it back. I can and am considering the Zuiko Pro f/4 12-100 lens, which also has great IQ, according to the tests done by Imaging-Resource.
I can always use Photoshop to blur the background, but it takes about 15-20 minutes per image to make it look good. This requires carefully selecting the subject, inverting and blurring the background. It works, but takes more time than I care to spend, except for an exceptional catch.
So...Finally to the question. Can the MFT sensor isolate the subject in some way that I do not yet know? Or do the physics involved make this possible only for a full frame sensor and an f/2.8 lens? Am I seeking the impossible?
Because I take lots of types of pictures and because I am pretty heavily invested in MFT, I don't want to spring for a full frame and a mammoth lens which I would only use for sport.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks
Hi, All, br I have a question that I hope I don't... (show quote)


Unfortunately, that is a common issue with a camera with a smaller than full frame sensor. Crop sensor cameras will always give you a greater depth of field than a full frame.
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Sep 24, 2018 13:04:11   #
hj wrote:
I've always just kept a UV filter on my lens for sports. Is that the best filter solution specifically for college soccer? I considered placing this post in the sports section, but I don't think many go there.


The only real purpose for using a UV filter is to keep dust off the lens or as some protection for the front lens element; for me it adds nothing but I always use a lens hood.

Neutral Density - counter productive unless you are trying for a shallow depth of field. My opinion that it would be next to useless.

Circular Polarizer - difficult to use quickly; so I consider a CPF as a hinderance for sports, not an asset.

My conclusion: for sports, don't use any filter but I always use a lens hood. If using an UV filter makes you feel better, use it.
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Sep 20, 2018 23:46:02   #
Unfortunately, it takes time for Adobe to update their programs to accept raw files from new cameras.

Your quickest solution is to use the Nikon program (probably came with your camera purchase) to convert the P1000 file to DNG.Then your Adobe program will probably recognize the file.
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Sep 17, 2018 23:27:42   #
Royce Moss wrote:
Gonna take a road trip along the coast from Los Angeles to Oregon soon. I plan on taking my new Sigma 150-600, Tokina 11-16 and Nikon 18-140. I know I will be taking a lot of day time shots along water and some landscapes. I have been researching for awhile. Your thoughts on their use and which ones are good.Thanks


I won't comment on the CPL; However I will comment on your planned trip. Be prepared for some fantastic scener, also be prepared for some hair raising roads. Although the trip from Santa Barbara is very scenic (lots of photo opportunities}, the road from San Francisco to Fort Bragg can be hair raising; especially the first part. Drive slow and watch the road, not the scenery, use a pull out when appropriate. Gualala is very beautiful, Point Arena is very intersting, Elk is close to fantastic, and so on. Highway 1 from Fort Bragg at first seems to be an easy drive, but can soon turn into a nightmare.

I have driven many of those roads in my Toyota Tacoma, and some of those in a 40 foot motor home, so I have some experience. After Fort Bragg, and after you get back to US 101, you still have some great scenery.
You are taking a fantastic trip with wonderful views along the way. Just make sure you take you time and enjoy the sights. Also make sure you are always watching the road.

If you want to stop for a night about 30 miles north of Gualala, consider the Manchester Beach KOA, a fantastic KOA. We were work campers there for several years and, frankly it is kind of a second home for us. If you see Yolanda (the manager) or Tarey (the owner) say hello for us.

Good Luck and take care!
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Sep 8, 2018 13:39:13   #
The metadata suggests it was shot with a manual white balance set for Tungston. That would explain the blue cast.


Light Source: Tungston (incandescent light)
White Balance: Manual white balance
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Sep 6, 2018 23:58:46   #
It's great to see the restoration of a wonderful war bird! The Air Force Museum in Dayton is nothing short of fantastic.

My first, last, and unfortunately only visit was in the early 1980s. I have very fond memories of that visit. Most of the exhibits were in a very large building.There were two sides to the exhibits and they were separated by an area that had a theater, and a rather large hallway and reception center. On one side was a history of flight including many very old aircraft. On the other side was a display of more modern aircraft including a B-36 along with many other aircraft. However, the most memorable display was outside and was of missiles. As I remember, all the missiles were standing vertically on concrete pads; however, there was one pad that was empty but there was a sign on that pad. The sign on the empty pad simply said, "Stealth Missile!"

Yes, the Air Force can had a sense of humor!
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Sep 6, 2018 23:28:10   #
Cany143 wrote:
Stepping back in time slightly, all the way back to last Friday.

Several days I posted some shots, one of which was what I considered 'the better' of a number of views I'd shot looking into Long Canyon. Wouldn't ordinarily do this, but hey, why not? Attached are four additional 'views' of essentially the same place, short distances from one to the next. I'm posting them for the purpose of showing how clouds and light and sky and rock can change appreciably in the space --quite literally-- of twenty minutes. Nothing anybody hasn't seen elsewhere, or realized for themselves, of course, but thought some might like to see what happens in canyon country on a windy, cloudy, occasionally rainy evening.
Stepping back in time slightly, all the way back t... (show quote)


Very impressive. You have shown just how much lighting can change in a very short time, especially at sunset and it also happens at sunrise!

Well done!👍
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