Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

The active approach is to first choose the setting that is most important to your result:

1. Shutter speed for freezing or blurring motion
or
2. Aperture for depth of field

Once you've made that important first decision, you then adjust the others in order to achieve your desired exposure.

The passive approach is "If I set a wider aperture (smaller number), it will enable the shutter speed to increase." To me this seems backwards - for want of a better word at the moment - if shutter speed is of primary importance, e.g. shooting birds in flight, or creating a silky water look.

I'd appreciate discussion on how and why you make your choices, and what - in your experience - is most beneficial for newbies. Many thanks!

ChristianHJensen

Well - ideally you decide both shutter speed and aperture to achieve what you want. The third variable in the equation is obviously your ISO setting - can be varied (even set to auto) to (maybe) let you use the chosen shutter speed and aperture. Sometimes that means that the ISO value gets pretty high resulting in deteriorating noise levels (the degree is dependent on your camera) if you cannot add light to the scene. Other times it may mean overexposure (since your needed ISO value is below the minimum for the camera) unless you can utilize ND filters or shades to filter out some of the light.

So in essence - some shots you get to choose your ideal combination of settings - others (because of either too little or too much light for your preferred setup) and you have to compromise - unless you have found a way to bend the laws of physics. Which way you choose to compromise is obviously dependent on what you are trying to accomplish.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Linda, I subscribe to your approach. I find what works best for me is to first decide what I want to capture and how important it is for me to stop or not stop the subjects movement. Sometimes they move in the wind and other times the subject is in action. I have found that if I don't do that wisely the shot will be blurred and I will have lost a great moment in time. Hence, I start with the shutter speed.

With the shutter speed determined, I decide how much I want to separate the subject from its background. I find this to be more of an artistic decision in conjunction with my composition.

I set my ISO to operate so that it can float within a range between an upper and lower limit that I have set. When I find that the ISO wants to be higher than I would like, I go back to my shutter speed and f-stop setting and tweak them until I get something that gives me a better no-noise result.

I take a few test shots and pay attention to the histogram to make sure that I am not too far to the right or left and then I'm ready to go.

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

I believe the Active approach is more straightforward and easier to understand for newbies and less active photo enthusiasts. As an aside, I think the term “newbies” is unnecessarily pejoritive - we need to come up with a less insulting/diminishing term. I believe the Passive approach is better used by more experienced photographers who are thoroughly familiar with the features and capability of their cameras.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

"...Setting aperture and shutter speed..."
Linda there is a "classic" exposure triangle.... ISO; Shutter Speed and Aperture...

Each can be of paramount importance and oft time actually there may be ONLY single dominate factor in any particular image equation... There are no "ideal" scenarios an my humble estimation in my experience in commercial photography...

Albeit this query is what I consider "Click Bait" since it is certain to bring emotional responses to the fore...
And for what purpose?

btw, after a recent commercial assignment at near freezing ambient I had to totally abandon my game plan since I couldn't effectively operate the camera's controls... So here the variable of "Temperature" trumped everything!

I wish you well on your journey Linda

BebuLamar

In the old days of film, the choice of ISO was made before I went out taking pictures so there was no choice of ISO.
1. If the subject motion is insignificant like static object, people posing for me then the shutter speed was chosen first to ensure no camera shake. This is 1 stop higher than 1/focal length. Then if the resulting aperture is f/11 to f/5.6 I would leave it at whatever aperture for the correct exposure. If the aperture is smaller than f/11 then I would use higher shutter speed. I would generally want the f/8 aperture. If the aperture had to be larger than f/5.6 then I would consider using 1/focal length shutter speed instead. I would then open the aperture more if that isn't enough light.
2. If the subject moved fast then I would set for whatever speed needed and the aperture whatever needed to get the correct exposure.

Today I can change the ISO. I would do pretty much the same using base ISO first. I would then increase the ISO as the light goes down keeping the aperture no larger than f/5.6 and shutter speed no slower than 1/focal length.
That's most of the time. If I use tripod and the subject doesn't move then I use base ISO f/8 and whatever shutter speed to get the exposure right. Sometimes I would use f/16 or f/22 (whatever the smallest aperture available) to get good DOF for subject that need it. I would never use aperture larger than f/5.6 unless I have to due to the light but that's rare as I would use ISO up to 12,800 before I open the aperture larger than f/5.6. I never have the need for shallow DOF.

kenievans Loc: Dallas

I don't find these types of subjects to be click bait. It is an invitation to an open ended discussion. While I have read and watched hours upon hours of tutorials attempting to learn this great hobby I don't have years of experience. Knowledge is important but just as important is understanding how and when to apply that knowledge and that comes with experience. I don't want to just read some chart for the idea settings in a given situation. That does not involve learning or using critical thinking skills. I want to hear from others with experience and understand why they made the choices they did.

Your snarky response is what elicits emotional responses and causes beginners and less experienced amateurs to hesitate in joining a discussion for fear of being ridiculed or talked down to. While I am a relative beginner I am not shy or intimidated. I don't mind saying at all that I don't care for your attitude or response.

Peace be with you.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Christian - thank you for the valuable reminder that we can't always get what we want, no matter how we go about it

sippyjug - a clearly written, easy to follow discussion. Thanks!

Ray - I haven't noticed any related negativity with the term "newbie" but I very much respect your viewpoint.

Bebu - thanks so much for detailing your approach. It sounds like we do similar in that I am least concerned with ISO. Learning there was auto-ISO available in my T3i was a great pleasure because it came around the same time I discovered I couldn't hold the camera as steady at slower shutter speeds than I could a few years before.

Thomas wrote, "this query is what I consider "Click Bait" since it is certain to bring emotional responses to the fore... And for what purpose?" A sad commentary on the general state of this forum: many times it does appear that more people are interested in complaining and arguing and disrupting threads. Apparently, this is entertainment?

Thomas, it would have been nice if you'd given me the benefit of the doubt, as well as not been dismissive of the (apparent) minority who are here for constructive purposes - as my buddy KeniEvans passionately addressed.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Active for me - and also use auto ISO with the upper limit set (on my camera bodies it does exactly what I would do (1/focal length (in 35mm fov terms))).
When shooting classical music concerts in low light I will be shooting at maximum aperture and take what ever shutter speed I can get.

For absolute newbies I just put the camera in P mode when I hand it to them. Example attached.

(Download)

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Thanks for commenting, Richard. The P mode suggestion is great IMO for those who want to concentrate on composition. Your pic, however, demonstrates that some folks still have to learn what to do with their hands

Cwilson341 Loc: Central Florida

This subject is like most things in photography. There are many ways to arrive at the same destination. I use the passive method. I use aperture priority unless I am doing something where I need to use manual. It’s what I’m used to and in most of my photography, aperture is what I’m most concerned with. I also use auto iso with a reasonable minimum set. It always important to watch for changes in settings as conditions change.

I think it is valuable for less experienced photographers to understand that most things can be accomplished in different ways. Usually, there is no right or wrong way, just what suits you best. This is probably even more true in post processing.

BebuLamar

I would love it if camera maker allow me to program the full AUTO mode myself. I know very well how I would approach to these settings and if I can put my algorithm in the camera I would use it almost all the time. I actually like automation because my job is to automate industrial production machines. However, I ended up using my camera in manual mode so often because I just can't make it to work my way.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

I disagree - as well as capturing the "moment", composition for me is very important. The fully auto modes are for those who don't know about the exposure triangle.
If you really want to concentrate on composition (especially for 'scapes etc) the put the camera on a tripod and slow down.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Excellent points, Carol, thank you! Though possibly disconcerting for some - at least in the beginning - to hear they have options

I'm glad you mentioned the importance of staying cognizant of automatic settings changes (e.g. the shutter speed when you're in aperture priority). Sometimes we can get so involved with composition, we forget there's another child who needs our attention.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

I meant to say that for those new to photography, P mode seems a good choice because it allows you to concentrate solely on composition. I often wish I could remember how I learned about exposure and the properties of aperture and shutter speed - and at what point composition was introduced. Or did composition come first because I had taken a few high school art classes? Egg, chicken