200-500 without hesitation

200-500

Mark,
I forgot to mention you must be in 'playback mode' to bring up the edit menu when pressing the 'i'button'.

YES YOU CAN. This applies to the 7100, 7200, 750 and 7500. (I no longer own the 7200 or the 7200). The following applies to only jpegs.
FIRST: View the image you want to edit in playback mode.
SECOND: Go to the "retouch menu" and edit the image to your liking and press OK. (For some edit operations you rotate the command dial or use the right and left arrows). Also, pressing the 'i' button will take you to the 'edit menu'. You will then see an icon in the upper left signifying the edited image has been saved and will be the last image on the card and numbered accordingly.
THIRD: Press the 'i' button again to bring up the 'retouch menu'. On the bottom of the 3rd page of the menu select 'side by side comparison'.
Thats it!
NOTE> Anytime you want to see the comparison, display the original image or the edited version, press the 'I' button and both images will appear. You cannot retouch an edited copy, but you can make another edit using the original image once again.

Hope this helps.

Set a lower maximum iso when using auto iso in manual to allow you to adjust for a wider aperture or slower shutter speed.

7200 has a faster buffer for continuous shooting, better resolution, improved sensor for less grain. The 7500 is a great camera as well with improved auto focus with the 180K RGB meter, improved dynamic range, group AF. AF-C is quicker and stays with the subject better. It has one card slot and a tilt screen. Hope this helps.

Sold the 80_400 for the 200_500. Less $$ , sharper and the same max aperture throughout the zoom range.

Love your reply

It's a personal choice you have have to deal with. You may discover, as you improve and begin to become more selective with the images you're willing to accept, better glass may be right for you. Buy the best you can afford to start with and read the reviews. There are many factors to consider when selecting zoom lenses.

I have found the 1.4 is best. Any more than that degrades image quality. You also loose f stops.

For the money it is the best choice. Plus, it is 5.6 throughout the zoom range. It focuses fast and can be hand held, at least for me as needed. VR does a great job when needed.

Using DX format depends on requirements. When concerned about noise or cropping, FX is best. If you must post crop, the number of pixels are reduced. Full frame sensors handle low light best, as does fast lenses that allows the lowest ISO possible in low light situations. The sharpest image of an f4 lens most likely is 5.6, maybe f8. I use both FX and DX but it depends on lighting and if it is a still or action shot. The only thing that changes from a DX to FX is the field of view. A 100mm lens on a DX is still 100mm lens, not 150mm.
It is best to move closer to the subject if possible.

Very deceitful. Go elsewhere! Spread the word. Should not be in business.

I find that a collapsible rubber lens hood screwed to the lens threads is best as it stays mounted. Filters and lens cap can be attached as usual.

I purchased rubber lens hoods for the same reason. They work great, are collapsable can remain on the lenses. Lens cap or filters filters can be added and can be ordered for medium or long telephotos. Haven't had an issue with them on the 24-70 or 70-200. Had one on the 24-120 (since sold) used against aquarium glass to eliminate reflections.