This is the part of the lens design that I really dislike. It’s happened to me on more than one occasion when the lens was attached to my Black Rapid strap via the foot. I now have a tether screwed into the camera tripod screw attached to the Black Eapid strap and it’s saved me further distress.
I can only speak for Canon mirrorless, in particular my EOS R5. I use back button focussing but unlike those on here, I still keep the shutter button engaged. I use it for action shooting and so I’m primarily interested in locking onto my subject which may or may not be in isolation from other potential subjects and then to engage eye Af tracking which will then follow my chosen subject while I keep it visible in the evf.
I set the shutter button to single point Af so that basically I can select my subject using the centre set single point Af by half pressing the shutter button. The eye Af setup is on the Af-On back button as I find this is the most convenient button to press with my thumb to engage eye Af.
My shooting process is as follows. I have the single point Af square centred in the evf and will therefore place this on my subject and activate it by half pressing and holding the shutter button. I keep my thumb located over the Af-On button and as soon as I see the single point Af lock on, I press the Af-On button fully, engaging eye Af and hold it down. I can then at my discretion fully press the shutter button and take the pictures.
The question people ask is, the shutter button is trying to engage the single point Af while the back button is trying to engage eye Af, what happens. The answer is visible on the Q screen, half pressing the shutter button brings up the single point logo on the screen but as soon as the Af-On button is pushed down the eye Af logo takes over. The back button has priority over the shutter button without fail.
No need for two back buttons, no need to move your thumb between them and much easier to take pictures.
No, it allows you to carry out the calibration using a mobile phone instead of a laptop, making the procedure more mobile.
Seeing the post stating that users not experiencing the problem are not doing so because of the way they shoot, ie shooting at f/5.6 is just pure tosh. I shot many thousands of pictures using the EF100-400 mkii on my R5 with the canon adapter with no problems at all. I was shooting pictures of whippet racing using apertures mainly at f/10 or f/11 to get the required depth of field and at focal lengths anywhere between 400mm down to 135 mm.
Seeing the post stating that users not experiencing the problem are not doing so because of the way they shoot, ie shooting at f/5.6 is just pure tosh. I shot many thousands of pictures using the EF100-400 mkii on my R5 with the canon adapter with no problems at all. I was shooting pictures of whippet racing using apertures mainly at f/10 or f/11 to get the required depth of field and at focal lengths anywhere between 400mm down to 135 mm.
r1ch wrote:
Watch the video and you will see, and it is not just the reviewer. I bought a new EF 200 2.0 and it had this exact problem. I returned it to Adorama. I did call Canon and sent my camera back with a lens that had this problem. The said it was normal.
My understanding (and I could be wrong) is that any lens built before dual pixel AF will exhibit this issue. Newer Canon and Sigma lenses that can have firmware updates some of them are made comparable. But others like this lens which has no updates (at least when I purchased it) will always experience this problem and when you shoot wide open, the images are not sharp because they are a bit out of focus.
I used my EF100-400 mkii with my R5 principally for shooting whippet racing, where in order to get the required depth of field I would shoot at an aperture of f10 most of the time and there was never any problem with the set. The combination worked flawlessly and it was just the extra reach that persuaded me to purchase the RF100-500. I still have the 100-400 and would be reluctant to sell it.
If you shoot at F5.6 you have enough DOF so you may not notice which I think a lot of people who say oh it works fine with my R5 and so and so lens but they are unaware. But the reason you buy a big lens is so you can shoot wide open. You have to come to the realization that nothing is perfect and that only newer lenses from canon or 3rd party that can be updated may or may not have this problem.
This is a video I sent to Canon when I sent my camera in, I was going to have Canon look at my camera and lens but the Adorama return policy would expire before I go the lens back so I returned it.
The video is short but you may have to wait a little bit because it is slow. Press the play pause button a couple times, once loaded, you can replay it without interruption.
https://imadethis.photo/200/ISoff.mp4
Realize, I understand that your lens does not have this problem, what I am saying is,, when people say "all the lenses work perfectly that may be on a list or are EF lenses, it has been my experience they are not and those people don't experience the issues because they don't use the camera in the same way, they don't shooting birds in flight or sports, or narrow DOF portrait so they do not see the issues.
Watch the video and you will see, and it is not ju... (
show quote)
That’s just down to the user just not understanding how their camera works. If you go to the menu tab for registering your settings to C1-C3 it quite clearly gives you the option to either save the any changes you make to your custom setting or not. You have the choice, you can select enable or not. If you select enable it will automatically update any changes you make and be there the next time you use your camera, don’t turn on enable and your settings will revert to those previously saved when you turn the camera off.
I’ve got the R5 and although I now use the 100-500, I have the EF100-400mkii used with the Canon R-EF adapter and never experienced any problems at all with the setup. It doesn’t help with people commenting on the two stabilisation setups, camera and lens competing, which if true would be happening to all people using this setup. It’s got nothing to do with firmware, either lens or camera as this would have affected all using this setup prior to the firmware updates being released. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t upgrade to the latest firmware.
There would it seems be a problem with this particular camera/lens combination and a visit to a Canon repair specialist with both items together would be the best option.
You’re right about using the shutter button to focus and shoot. People seem to think that double back button focussing is the only way to go. However there is a compromise when shooting mirrorless, in my case a Canon R5, to still use a back button to focus using eye AF and still use the shutter button to single point focus.
Using a half press of the shutter button with the single point focus positioned in the middle of the viewfinder I can select my target. For convenience I have my AF-ON button set to eye AF and when shooting, my thumb always resting on the button. Having locked onto the target with the half press of the shutter button, I push down the AF-ON button with my thumb and the eye AF tracking takes over. Whether it’s stationary or moving, with the eye tracking in operation, fully pressing the shutter butter takes the shots.
There is no competition between the single point focus set on the shutter button and the eye AF tracking set on the back button. The back button focussing takes priority.
If you set up your C1, 2 or 3 to auto update you don’t have this problem.
I have always been a fan of Topaz products, from the older ones to the AI versions and I’m talking principally Denoise and Sharpen. I have to admit though that I’ve been less than impressed with the almost constant updates of these two products that require more and more input to get the best out of them. I recently purchased DXO’s Pure Raw which is my go to first port of call for higher ISO files. This works on the raw file and in my case sends the produced DNG file to Adobe Camera Raw where I can carry out my normal work flow. The produced file is impressive to say the least and I’m seriously thinking of not renewing my Topaz update purchase when the current one expires.
You need to use monitor calibration equipment such as XRite i1Pro Display.
You need to use monitor calibration equipment such as XRite i1Pro Display.
Make sure that you have the latest version of Adobe Camera Raw downloaded. It’s now at least version 14.1 maybe 2. It was only after version 14 was released that .CR3 files could be downloaded into LR and PS.
Surely you will have experimented with using different apertures.
If you have you will be able to make your own mind up as to whether there’s a single aperture that give the sharpest result and use that.
There seems to be this idea that as a generalisation, an aperture of f/8 gives the sharpest result. Anyone with a dslr and who has purchased Reikan’s Focsl Pro to micro adjust their lenses to their camera body will have also used the software included to determine the aperture that give the sharpest result. In all the tests I did with my Canon lenses was that what I found was f/8 was never the sharpest aperture and was much closer to wide open although never wide open. The curve on the sharpness graph across the apertures was quite gentle around the sharpest point. For that reason in bird photography where necessary I would trade the sharpest aperture fir the widest aperture available in order to get the fastest shutter speed.