Shooter41's entire post seems like gobbledy gook because I am guessing it generated by ChatGPT or some other AI engine. He entered in some prompt with the topic, and what it spewed out is what was posted. Welcome to the world of AI trolling

I use a program called 'Photo Time Stamp.' It works great, it reads the photo time stamp from the file and then when it outputs .jpg with the time stamp on it. It's relatively cheap, $10 to $14. It is at https://www.dts8888.com/

I have the Movo MB1000, which is the poor man's equivalent of the Cotton Carrier (was $32.95 on Amazon, not sure if is available). Worked like a champ this summer during our rigorous hikes in Estes State Park.

https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MB700-Universal-Carrying-Holster/dp/B00RF0OF2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460512384&sr=8-1&keywords=movo+camera+harness

That 'ridiculous' exchange rate (or one hell of a sale) must have been quite a while ago.

I took a look, most Canadian dealers are asking about CA$1900 for the Tamron 150-600mm G2. The current exchange is US$0.76 = CA$1.00, so the US equivalent is US$1400 - not a good deal at all!! Most US dealers are $1200 to $1300 for this lens.

I speak of this because I have industry experience.

I'm only a camera hobbyist; by profession I'm an electronics designer who worked at Laird Technologies for a couple years in their mobile phone antenna components division. I've done actual GPS and cell phone antenna design and measurements and worked with the cell phone manufacturers during prototype testing, so I'm very familiar with what their algorithms actually do.

The GPS subsystem on cell phones (antenna + RF electronics + software) are pretty meager in terms of performance, reliability, and accuracy. Often cell phones have an 'accurate' GPS signal (4 or more satellites) only some of the time - at other times, no GPS at all.

I've spent enough time hiking in National Parks in Utah and Wyoming that I know to bring my Garmin Oregon along - with no cell towers, the GPS performance of our phones (Droid and iPhone) are paltry.

Cell phones cannot hold a candle to the GPS performance of, say, a Garmin Oregon or Montana handheld GPS (which sell for $400+ and have much better antennas, electronics, and computing power dedicated to GPS accuracy). A decent analogy is comparing cell phone cameras to your dedicated DSLR or Mirrorless camera.

Regarding the Android phones, my family has 4 Droid devices, so I am familiar with the 'high accuracy' setting. That mode means the phone algorithm uses the GPS signal it (hopefully) gets to augment its cell phone triangulation to provide a 'more accurate' location. It still relies mostly on the cell tower triangulation. Turning off 'high accuracy' saves battery power, but location accuracy is pretty poor (often +/- a mile).

On my iPhone, there isn't a way to turn the GPS on or off, you can just turn Location Services on or off. On that setting screen it says "Location Services uses GPS, Bluetooth, and crowd-sourced Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower locations to determine your approximate location." However, I know Apple uses the sources listed in reverse order, priority wise (cell towers 1st, GPS last).

Oh well, enough of my rant. The point is that the 'location' that your phone derives is mostly cell tower triangulation, and the GPS signal (if your phone can determine an 'accurate GPS') just augments that. If the GPS in your cell phone loses signal, your location could be way off.

The question involved pictures taken on an iPhone. Cell phones like the iPhone use cell tower triangulation for location services and calculating the lat/long they tag photos with. The phone's GPS antenna sometimes is used to augment that info (especially when in poor cell reception). However, GPS is an extremely weak signal since the GPS satellites orbit is more than 12,500 miles above the earth's surface (yes, you read that right, 12,500 miles). There are cases where the cell tower triangulation method yields a different location (by miles!) than the GPS signal, but the phone's GPS might be so weak or unusable that the phone uses its 'best guess' based on the cell tower triangulation.

Even though it has calibration points at 6 focal lengths with 3 distances, it interpolates all the focal lengths & distances in between. I.e. if your G2 + camera body combination it is back focused -3 at 150mm focal length and -5 at 300 and, say -8 at 600 (just making up numbers), it will interpolate (estimate using a curve fit) for every focal length in between - i.e. at 187mm it will be a value between -3 & -5, at 240mm a different value, at 546mm another, etc

It doesn't use the value of -3 at 150mm, then from 151mm to 299mm go to 0, then at 300mm use -5, etc.

I would be silly to think that - or it shows a real lack of understanding of how the Tamron Tap-In tuning works.

That first sentence is an incorrect statement in regards to how the Tamron TAP-in process works, or at the very least dismissive and shows a lack of understanding about what the Tamron TAP-in does. Perhaps an explanation of exactly what it does is in order. Follow me here...

If you were shooting pictures of a subject at one distance using one lens at one focal length using one camera body, and if your camera has an AF fine-tune setting, most might agree it worthwhile to fine tune the AF focus to make sure the focus is tack sharp. Just in case the image was back- or forward- focused by a millimeter or two.

Now, say you change the focal length, and you were a real perfectionist, you'd feel like you had to go in and change that AF fine tune number for the new focal length each time - what a pain in the rear! Your statement of "only good for the distance you set it at" would seem to hold true. However....

The idea behind the Tamron TAP-in is to do the above-mentioned procedure, but for multiple focal lengths and distance. You enter those 'tuned in' values on the Tamron TAP-in program, and it uses those points to create a 'continuous' curve fit algorithm (in engineering-speak, likely a 3rd or 4th order polynomial equation). That correction algorithm is programmed into the G2 lens using the TAP-in console (which is connected to your computer via USB).

When using the programmed G2 lens, you set the AF fine tune on your camera to zero. The G2 sends the needed AF 'fine tune' correction value at every focal length and distance for the best AF focus.

I have a Tamron 24-70 G2 used with a Nikon D600 that I dialed using the TAP-in console. For that lens, the TAP-in has you fine tune the AF using 4 focal lengths (24,35, 50, & 70mm) at 3 distances (1.25, 3, and 11.5 feet). That's 12 (3 x 4) data points that is used do make the correction algorithm for the 24-70 G2 / D600 combination I own.

After tuning, the AF is as sharp as possible for all focal lengths from 24mm to 70mm, near or far focal distance. It will be 'right on' at 24, 35, 50, & 70mm, but even the 'in between' points like 42mm, 62mm - whatever - focal lengths will be nearly as accurate due to the curve fit algorithm mentioned before. This yields continuous AF fine tuning throughout the entire focal length of the lens. Now I have much better AF performance over then entire 24-70mm range, especially at 70mm.

To me, the Tamron TAP-in tuning makes a TON of sense. I refuse to believe that mass produced "prosumer" lenses like the Nikon 200-500 or the Tamron 150-600 G2 will operate perfectly out of the box without some calibration, and Nikon's lack of something like the TAP-in has me leaning heavily toward and saving up for the Tamron 150-600 G2.

I will second the use of GPicSync in conjunction with a GPS logger. Once you get it figured out, it works great. As a few have mentioned, it is important that your camera clock be set reasonably accurately. To make things really easy, on your computer map out your gpx tracks on Google Earth, etc. If you have a good picture of a single landmark, and can roughly identify it, then you read the EXIF time stamp on the photo while also reading the exact time stamp of the GPS track for that spot. (Remember, the GPS track has THE time reference - exact down to milliseconds). As an example, if your picture's time stamp says 11:42:21, and the GPS time for your track at that location says 11:44:18, then you will know your camera clock was set 1 minute, 57 seconds (00:01:57) late. You can enter that offset into GPicSync, then have it automatically GeoTag all your photos (there is a +/- of a few seconds for rounding). Have that written into the EXIF of the photos, and, if you want, I believe it can also correct the photo time stamp for time/date taken.
What can be fun is mapping your GPS track on a mountain hike on Google Earth, turn on the 3D terrain, and see your track going up the mountain. If you import the pictures, you click on certain points and it shows the pictures.

A less expensive alternative to the Cotton Carrier (by about $70) is the Movo MB1000 Multi Camera Carrier Harness Vest (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP34H6Y/?coliid=I38X7N5Y63XYFA&colid=2W9TR4ROUGXLQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it). Mine works great.

The only problem with a dry bag is the material they are made of, which commonly are heavy nylon walls and a velcro / rollover top to make it water resistant. They usually have a more solid 'bottom' of the bag, so by their nature they will store 'open' (i.e. like an open bag). If you have one sitting in your car during a photo shoot, and it gets cold, by its nature, the interior walls have and hold some humidity/moisture in the form of frost. Lots of surface area there. Then when you put the camera in, as it warms up, that humidity will transfer to the camera.

A 1 gallon ziplock baggie that is straight out of the box is ziplocked - zero air & humidity inside, and it stays that way even inside a frozen car. At the end of the photo shoot, you put your camera inside that ziplock baggie, push all the air out, and seal it, will be the dryest possible environment for your camera to warm up in (and, of course all the condensation occurs on the outside of the bag).

I've used dry bags in river hikes, etc. All but the most expensive ones are, at best, water resistant.

Nay, not there yet. Aperture mode 95% of the time

I'm not sure where Jakebrake is getting his information regarding the lenses the Tamron Tap-In consoles supports - supports a LOT of Tamron lenses for Nikon/Canon bodies, including 7 of their zoom lenses (list here: http://www.tamron.co.jp/software/en/tapin//help/lens/). That list includes the 24-70 G2, which I own....

I got my Tap-In console and tweaked my Tamron 24-70 G2 last week. It took about 3 hours using the 'dot-tune autofocus' method. The results at a 1st Communion shoot last weekend look spectacular!

I have the Canon CanoScan 8800F. It includes several plastic guides for scanning slides and negatives (so you can scan 4 or 8 at a time, for instance). Works fantastic, and is very fast

Ditto for me - I've taken some great landscape photos with my D7000. It is a great lens for a crop frame camera!

I am now sad because it is off to college with my daughter, who received the D7000 and all its DX lenses at Christmas this year.

Why? I recently upgraded to a full frame Nikon. Her getting my old camera & lenses was the deal agreed upon during the financial negotiations to buy the aforementioned full frame Nikon.

These negotiations were of course with the person in charge - my wife :-)

So, now I'm on the hunt for a full frame equivalent of the Sigma 10-20 f/4 (that doesn't cost an arm and a leg).