I have On 1 RAW 2019.2 and Photoshop CC. I don't find either software to be intuitive, but the functionality of ON1's Layers leaves much to be desired compared to PS CC.

Thanks very much.

Thank you.

Montezuma, CO

Kodak Tri-X 4X5 sheet film.

Site for Red River Inkjet Paper used to have info on costs per print. Don't know if they list your specific printer.

Dan Burkholder's web site has a section called Tiny Tutorials. If memory serves me, he explains a technique for removal of blemishes globally.

That's great!!

Looks pretty magenta to me; guess that's why I don't do color photography.

I have an Epson P800 - great prints!

I used to shoot Kodak B&W films (predominately Tri-X), but now Ilford HP5. Nearly all my film photos are large format so grain on enlargements is not a factor. Best guess, an enlargement of much greater than an 8 X 10 35 mm neg grain structure will likely be prominent. Not a problem if that's a look you desire. Foma Pan 400 (available from Freestyle Photographic Supplies) is a decent film; my film tests indicate it does not develop as much contrast as HP5 at least when developed in D-76. Be forewarned that manufacture's quoted film speeds are generally higher than the actual film speed, i.e. HP5 actual film speed for my workflow is ASA 320. Good luck, glad to hear he wants to shoot film.

And I would be more than happy to represent the Colorado Branch. I'll even take in film cameras.

I shoot both film and digital. I guess I'm old school, but I still prefer film (exclusively B&W) in part because I enjoy working in my darkroom. I find it curious that some would think film limits your experimentation. I have been developing film and printing for 30 years with varying degrees of success, and still have not experimented with all the printing techniques available to B&W film practitioners, i.e. Bromoil, Carbon Black, Cyanotype, Vandyke Brown and others. I recognize that not everyone wants to work in a darkroom - good for them. As for cost of film vs digital photography: I still am using much of the equipment, camera and darkroom, that I have had for at least 25 years. I do not still own the same computer or post processing software that I had 3 years ago; for me film is cheaper than digital. On the plus side for digital, I have saved several badly scratched negatives via scanning and creating paper negatives. Beautiful images are what I strive for and occasionally accomplish be the format film or digital.

My wife and I did a bicycle tour in Ireland several years ago. We were there for about two weeks in late June and early July and experienced rain on only two days; however, one of our guides did mention we had probably experienced the best weather she could remember for that time of year. We only went as far north as Sky Cliff; I would love to return and spend a good deal more time in the northern portion.

We also spent three days in Dublin. It's a interesting city with much history, but I'm not much of a city person and can't honestly say I would return to Dublin.

For my large format imaging I use a Pentax Spotmeter V. I meter shadows where I want detail and place on Zone III or IV. Read brightest highlight where I want detail and see if it falls on Zone VIII, if not revise development. To effectively use this system one needs to know the your personal EI for the film being shot, the developer being used and the development procedure, i.e. rotary, tray, or tank development. If you really want to nail down exposure and development you might consider getting a copy of Phil Davis's book Beyond the Zone System. I know it's not the purist's idea of the Zone System, and it requires a good deal of "testing" as opposed to capturing images, but it has made my negatives far more consistent in exposure and development. It hasn't kept me from taking a number of photos that are of questionable worth, but that is another subject.

Just to add my two cents worth. Polarizer filters are a must for me. I use them with digital photography as well as with my film work.