I had a good friend who owned and raced one here in Portland, OR back in 1965-66. Pete flat towed the 1600 with his 300D Chrysler.
( I almost got to race it )
Thank you for your time and explaining ON1.
I had forgotten about Canon's DPP4.
Now, I will compare both to see if I can tell a difference in colors.
I kinda got lost with all the different replies to each other.
My question is in ON1 2024.1 I can select ON1 or Camera settings like ,"Landscape ". Does the mean My Canon 80D is using Canon RAW instead of ON1 RAW for bases of editing?
I guess I should list the steps I take when editing on ON1: 1] I crop 2] No Noise 3] Then I select Tone and Color 4] This is where select either ON1 or Canon for base settings in RAW.
I have a very limited income. My current computer has dual V 2630L CPU's with 48GB RAM and an old 2GB GPU video card. It seems I can acquire a newer used desktop computer for around $300-400, using an I7 CPU.
Why?
I am a user of ON1 Raw 2024.1 PP. It takes about 20-30 seconds to process No Noise and a little longer if I use Brilliance AI.
Spagatz wrote:
I apply lens corrections and personal profile and common key words at import, and make global and local adjustments to match color temp and density. Next I do picks and rejects and drag rejects into a subfolder, color code HDR and pano image components. If there are sensor dust spots, I remove from one file and apply to all. While pano and HDR is processing, I pick representative images to locally adjust, then apply the correction to similar images or lighting situations. Lastly go through the remaining images to reject or star rate them. Subsequent edits are individual, not linear.
I apply lens corrections and personal profile and ... (
show quote)
Thank you for addressing "lens correction" . I just researched my photo editor, ON1 2024.1, and it has automatic lens correction. On1 adjusts my Tamron & Canon lens. Although I can go in and make any level changes manually. I have never tried or I guess given it any thought about correction. "I just Assumed"
MrBob wrote:
YES... I think a lot of us have gotten spoiled with our zooms, not that they are not very useful but most of us can still move back and forth a bit. If we thought more of " cropping " as pixel reduction, we would be more careful in our compositions... I need to start practicing some of this stuff !!
Thank you MrBob, regarding correct use of zoom.
I need to accomplish my crop in the camera. This will help in retaining Pixel count. Leveling seems to be most of my correction in crop. At least a smaller amount of cropping to help in composition.
My thinking is I need to place more on what I want as a finished product. Instead of liking what I see.
Thanks MrBob
Can I ask a question?
Statements have been made " Do the camera 1st and lens"
I have assumed.... ON1 automatically made those adjustments automatically.
So you are telling me I should at least review the settings for my 80D and my Tamron and Canon lens?
I always use No Noise ( ON1 2024.1), 1st.
Why, my thinking is help my Canon 80D with 24-105L F4 or Tamron 70-300mm or my crop sensor non L quality lens. Yes, I usually dial back levels a little so No Noise doesn't over correct or process.
Then crop
Follow up with Develop & effects and/or Masking
Usually I use Vignette as last step.
Please offer input or guidance if anyone a better directions.... Thanks
Here are a couple statements
I recently purchased yellow clip on glasses.These are for night driving and bright lights. Wow, they really take the edge off. You can wear them during the day as well.
I too have an Ford Explorer with LED bulbs for all exterior lighting. My fog lights are yellow LED. Very bright and I use them as my day time safety lighting .They almost bright enough to use as a night headlight, almost. I love the high beam ,30,000LM, for night driving. I can see well over a quarter mile.
My biggest problem with LED lights were that I had to buy Load resistors. for turn signals/ brake lights and another set for headlights.
Another high for me was when I replaced the backup lights with LED. Bright.The same went for me when I replaced the rear interior and the front above the dash. Really lights up both for this old guys eyes.
I too used Thousand Oaks sheet filter.
However, I sandwiched the filter between thin cardboard. The diameter was cut to my Tamron 70-300 sun shade. That way , I have the flexibility by simply remove the sun shade.
I am using windows XP. I need it for my graphic vinyl software.
I have Windows 7pro for my old laptop That I use for AIM data acquisition for my son's race car.
I had a 1953 2dr sedan. Cream white bottom and dark green top. I had seats covers made in a cream white with a green top. Then I painted the fabric headliner with white latex paint.
I used Butylrubber recaps.
I was at work with Moore's Audio Visual. Working in the service department, repairing B&H 16mm projectors, Dukane record film strip projectors, Ampro 16mm projectors, RCA 16mm projectors, Da Lite projection screens, Overhead projectors, Opaque projectors, Film strip projectors, and etc.
I remember Mr. Moore calling all of us up stairs to to hear the live radio report.
What I did was to sandwich the Thousand Oaks filter between 2 pieces of solid cardboard. I cut out 2 circles the diameter of my Tamron 70-300mm sunshade. Then cut out the inside so the cardboard was about 1/4" The filter fits nice and tight. Easy removal and storage in a large filter case
Looking at fellow messages, I use Standard photo or Pro with RAW.
I also downloaded ON1 app and process in RAW... always.
I have not printed any cell photos. However, I always use ON1 No Noise and in many cases, I will also use Tac Sharp to help with my cell phone images.