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Sep 19, 2018 12:54:29   #
The ThinkTank belt system https://www.thinktankphoto.com/pages/belt-systems is a good option for hands-free carrying. Unlike a shoulder bag you don’t have to worry about the bag slipping off your shoulder, and opposed to a vest, the belt system puts the weight on your hips; much more comfortable if you have any neck or shoulder pain.
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Sep 15, 2018 11:23:39   #
Check out the work of Scott Bourne https://instagram.com/bourne.scott?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=1aj3alvwrj1cr . He is an Olympus Visionary and president of Skylum.
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Aug 17, 2018 09:24:47   #
Don’t walk, RUN away from any dealings with Abe’s.
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Jun 30, 2018 10:19:44   #
What kind of image are you trying to open? Is it a raw file? What version of LightRoom do you have?
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Jun 28, 2018 08:08:52   #
kskarma wrote:
A little known head type is the "Geared Head". This head allows you to make precision moves in any of the three axis. Here is a link to a Manfrotto Geared Head like mine....easy to use, highly recommended by ME...! https://www.manfrotto.us/410-junior-geared-tripod-head-easy-to-use-ergonomic-knobs


I second the recommendation of a Manfrotto geared head 👍🏻
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Jun 28, 2018 07:54:53   #
AndyH wrote:
Ansel Adams’s original five volume set. The Camera, The Negative, The Primt, Natural Light, Artificial Light. Film based, but still the best, and easily adapted to digital.

Andy


I heartily agree!

👍🏻
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Jun 18, 2018 13:20:53   #
RWR wrote:
There are no light seals for the various backs, they slide into a track.


I remember the back sliding off to change film, but I could not remember if there was any seals along the top and baseplate, but apparently there are. However according to this supplier of light seals: https://uscamera.com/product/nikon-f-custom-light-seal-kit/ “The door channel seals in this camera are made of a photo grade wool blend and rarely, if ever needs replacement”.
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Jun 18, 2018 06:28:09   #
rcarol wrote:
What battery?


If it is one of the F models with a metered prism, i.e. Ftn Photomic, there is a battery in the prism for the meter.
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Jun 17, 2018 06:19:40   #
If you right-click on the image and open the image’s properties box, quite often the software used will be included in the details of the image.
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Jun 17, 2018 06:14:37   #
It will likely need to be serviced. Sitting unused for twenty years the lubricants have probably dried-up. The len’s focusing helical may be stiff and the shutter speeds off. The light seals on the camera back and mirror box are probably deteriorated. The battery may also be corroded. Not using a mechanical camera for long periods of time is the worst thing that you can do for it’s continued proper function.

I don’t mean to be rude, just the facts.
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Jun 17, 2018 05:58:13   #
burkphoto wrote:
If I'm recording JPEGs at the camera for a client who wants Adobe RGB, the client will get original files in Adobe RGB. Otherwise, they will get JPEGs in sRGB.

If I'm converting to JPEGs from raw files in post-production, the output can similarly be Adobe RGB or sRGB.

When recording raw files, it does not matter what the profile setting is at the camera! The appropriate raw profile will be used in post-production to convert the data to the working color space I've chosen, and then from the working color space to the output color space. (That said, my default profile for JPEGs is sRGB, and it gets changed ONLY if the client needs Adobe RGB.)

SOME graphic arts houses prefer Adobe RGB from photographers, because they are used to getting crappy color from photographers who adjust images without calibrating their monitors. Adobe RGB gives them a smidge more ability to adjust it from an original JPEG. (But it's less than they think!)

MOST photo labs printing to silver halide paper (conventional wet process) prefer to receive all files as sRGB. Such photo labs don't accept raw files, and some require you to TELL THEM if you use Adobe RGB, so they can interpret your files correctly. That is because they STRIP OFF the metadata and embedded sRGB profiles when importing files to their servers.

HIGH END service bureaus with top notch inkjet printers from Epson or Canon sometimes allow clients with laptops or notebooks to plug them into their networks and print directly. Doing so allows immediate, on-the-fly conversion from a raw file, through the ProPhoto RGB working color space, to the exact printer/paper/ink profile in use. That is the FINEST printing system available, provided the image is adjusted on a fully calibrated monitor (see below). Such a workflow is 16-bits, too (although 12- or 14-bits at the camera). That greatly improves subtlety of color reproduction.

JPEG files prepared for the Internet ALWAYS should be saved in sRGB color space, because 99% of users do not have monitors capable of displaying much more than sRGB.

Whatever profile you use, if you adjust your images and save JPEGs, you should use a FULLY calibrated and custom-profiled monitor capable of displaying the output color space of choice. NO monitor can display typical working space profiles like ProPhoto RGB, or the color range of a 16-bit high end inkjet printer driver. A few can display a bit more color gamut than Adobe RGB. Even more can display 99% of Adobe RGB. But the vast majority are 8-bit monitors that display only sRGB — and only when properly calibrated and custom profiled.

Proper monitor calibration and custom profiling REQUIRES a hardware device (colorimeter or spectrophotometer), and the software designed to work with it. I can't stress enough what a HUGE difference proper calibration and profiling can make in your workflow. USING a calibration kit does require reading ALL the instructions and directions, and probably requires more than a few passes to get the monitor brightness tuned properly. But once set, what you see on the monitor is extremely close to what you get from the printer.
If I'm recording JPEGs at the camera for a client ... (show quote)


Excellent reply; spot-on!
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Jun 16, 2018 12:15:37   #
Screamin Scott wrote:
That's true but remember that the D300 was a "Pro" DX format camera whereas the D7000 is a prosumer so the build quality favors the D300. Technology wise the D7000 is better no question...


👍🏻
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Jun 2, 2018 08:32:13   #
My Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II allows me to set either the front or rear dials for exposure compensation.
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May 26, 2018 20:51:48   #
ksmmike wrote:
Something to consider. If you're spending $100 each to convert the lenses,


The $100 is to have all four lenses converted ($25x4 type “A” conversion) by John White of aiconversions.com , + $12 return shipping.
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May 26, 2018 07:38:32   #
Go to: aiconversions.com

There you will find info on what older Nikon lenses can be used with what Nikon digital cameras and what kind of conversion is necessary and the cost. John White has been doing Nikon conversions for forty years and I highly recommend him.
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