When doing indoor wedding I usually shoot in manual. You can meter the BG and get your exposure for that, then use your flash when you shoot. The problem with white balance is that when you expose to get the BG, the light is most always a different color temp than your flash. If you use flash WB, then the BG will be very yellowish if in incandescent light, of very greenish if in fluorescent light. You can also use gels or somehow color your flash light to match the BG light and then use the correct WB for that light temp. With all of these problems, it is sometimes better to let the BG go dark. Also, your flash compensation should not effect the exposure of your BG, unless you have a wall not too far behind the subject. Your camera meter sets exposure for the ambient light and your flash usually just exposes what's closest.

The woman with the binocs may be adjusting the focus for each eye. For those who don't know: you cover the right(depending on your binoc model) side and focus, then cover the left side and focus with the small ring towards the back (towards the eyepiece). Or she may have a problem with the alignment of the prism, which she would see double as one person mentioned. Great photos by the way! Lots of interesting stuff. Like the vignette on the waiting photo.

I hope none of you are thinking of shooting weddings.

Check this site out first. Here is a newer flash that seems pretty good. http://steelevisions.com/blog/phottix-mitros/.

Good shots. I think you should have shot the moon picture a little straighter and used some levels to make it pop a bit more. I did some stuff with it, see what you think.

Tree bark?

One other thing I have noticed. If you zoom in to focus and then zoom back out, the focus is not always the same. I have that issue on one of my lenses. Focus only after setting your zoom.

This is a setting based on the "sunny 16" rule. You are correct with your shift in exposure, but you should probably be using a tripod if you're shooting the moon. This exposure will expose the moon nicely with detail, but you will not get much else with that setting. It is usually recommended to do double exposures or nowadays use HDR to get good exposure of the moon it it's setting. Of course double exposures now is one pic of the moon and another of the surroundings and combine them in post.

I have Spyder 3 and I use the colorimiter (the hardware) with another software and I think it works much better. I use Color Eyes Display Pro. It has a free trial. I tried it, liked it and purchased it.

First of all, make sure you know your equipment! If you get any new stuff, get used to it before the wedding. Second, I suggest checking out your local library for books on wedding photography. I have gotten several out from our library and have learned a great deal from them. I have found a couple that I liked enough to purchase them. Have fun, you can never learn it all, so keep paying attention and learning more.

You should also check out WHCC (White House Custom Colour). They are out of Minn. You need to set up an account with them and give them a business name. That because many pros charge lots when you buy photos from them and they don't want just anybody knowing how much they're actually paying for them. They do a very good job and if you purchase over a certain amount, shipping is free and it's 2 day shipping. I'm thinking it's $20, but I don't remember for sure. I haven't used them in a while. I have also used Bay Photo and they are also very good and the prices are good also.

I think the 6D is supposed to be a full frame version of the 7D. Not really sure, that's my thinking.

Another thing about Canon metering/focusing. When you manually select the focus point and you are using Evaluative Metering, the camera gives more "weight" to the area where the focus point your using is located. For example if you use the focus point on the far left, that is where the "main" exposure point is. That's one reason it's not recommended to focus on a subject with the center point and then move to re-frame the image. It will use that center focus point as the main reference for exposure no matter where it ends up. Of course you can also use your exposure lock button when you focus, but that gets into more confusion if your not used to doing these things.

I too had BCG treatments and I'm getting the quarterly checks. One day I go in and get prepped by the young and cute aid. She puts in some lydocaine and puts a "clamp" on the "end" of me so it won't leak out while waiting for the Doc. She comes in and says the Doc was called out to and emergency and we need to re-schedule. She then tells me to get dressed and starts to leave the room. I said, "Hey! Aren't you going to remove the hose clamp?" With apologies and a red face she did. It's great to have a good attitude and sense of humor. I thank the Lord for that. No more tumors so far. Praise the Lord for that too!

As for sharpening, here is a link to an alternate way of sharpening your photos. WHCC recommends this as the method to use for sharpening. I have been using it for several years now and I think it is much easier to use and gives great results, providing your starting with a good sharp image. http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/sharpen-high-pass/ I hope this helps some. As Captain said, use good labs. I also use WHCC and Bay Photo. For small quick stuff I do use WalMart sometimes and it's great for the price.