Pronounce it kind of like the man's name Maury with emphasis on the 1st syllable and a "-ay" on the end instead of " -ee".
Best I can do in American English.
That might not be moire' btw. Could be caused by screening, as in screening for print reproduction for magazines. Since I can't see the original, I dunno. If it is, there's a fix for that in your scanner, and in some versions of PS, known as "de-screen".
Turning the negative sounds like a brilliant fix if it works, and it may. Most "fixes", like gaussian blur simply blur it out of existence which can be very counterproductive if you want a sharp picture. Heck even "de-screen" simply blurs it a little in my experience.
That turned out to work beautifully. In my case it was trying to load anything I put in my laptop that had pictures on it, and since I check the CDs I make for customers before delivering, it was driving me nuts having to shut down LR5 manually everytime.
I was using bridge til I got LR5--maybe I'll go back to it after reading the other comment. I like LR5 opening when d/l my own shots from a card though.
Well, since I do this for a living, 72 DPI is going to look terrible if you leave it that way and it's printed. 300 DPI (not pixels, dots!) is going to give you a great print at 11 x 14 and yes you are going to have to resize it to those dimensions.
265 or 280 DPI is roughly "photo quality" as far as the average human eye can see. 300 gives you an extra margin so why not use it? Personally, and I *swear* I can see the difference, when I'm really going for super resolution I jump it to 350 DPI but it's really not necessary. I'm a resolution freak, I admit it.
If you want an easy comparison, look at the DPI comparisons of resolution on high quality computer tablets like Apple's latest Retina display, or the Nexus, or the Fire HDX. Those screens are incredibly crisp, and they all run at around 300-350 DPI. Forget the pixel numbers. Look at the dots per inch. That's what counts in the end.
My favorite is The Camera Doctor, in Decatur, Georgia. Walking in is like visiting a camera museum and he specializes in repairing and reselling old cameras. Next would be Showcase, over on Lindberg Dr. inside Atlanta city limits. I pick up supplies for my R3000 printer there and I love to look around and dream big. :D
Those aren't scratches. I was looking at this on my tablet and I zoomed in. She's looking down so you don't see her eyes, you see her eyelids. Whole face is blurred, looks like movement. You aren't going to be able to correct that. You can burn in the face for more definition/contrast in PS or another prg like GIMP. Beyond that, you have big problems with the multiple hazy looking sections on the rest of the photo and I don't think you can correct it. I couldn't.
Far as I know, except for PS Express, there isn't an android compatible version of Elements, so get a small laptop/notebook like a Windows or Mac machine. I love my Fire HDX 7" but it runs on Amazon's proprietary version of android. Same problem would happen with a Chromebook I'm sure, ditto the Galaxy. That's the main problem with anything running android--so stick with Windows or Mac.
Just get a Epson V600. Epson has sales on scanners all the time, and they have a refurbished center too. I originally got my V600 plus a 2 year extended warranty for a total of $180, brand new. You can also pick up a good HP scanner at full retail for around $200, but it uses florescent, not a LED bar like the V600 which I prefer. I use all my scanners commercially and the florescents eventually dim while the LED bars haven't yet. I did have a mechanical failure on my original V600 at the 19th month of use but the extended warranty covered it and they shipped me a rebuilt which works fine. Doubt you are going to do the massive amount of scans I do, so you may want to skip the extended warranty. :) It will do everything you said you wanted to scan, it saves in bitmap, tif, jpg, to the directory you want it to, and has excellent controls via software that you can use to edit pics in preview mode. Been doing this since late 2004, early 2005 for a local camera store and I've seen it all and tried a little of everything including all-in-ones. P.S.: If you have something bigger than the scanning bed, just do several scans and stitch them together with photomerge. Easy as pie. Just remember to have each scan overlap the other so the software (photoshop and others) has something to compare in order to assemble them into one picture.
Vivitar made nice stuff a few decades ago, but I wouldn't care to use the modern stuff. Tamron and Sigma were mentioned--I've got some older Tiffens too which were pretty good.
Epson V700 takes about 12 seconds at 800 dpi resolution with the unsharp mask, dust reduction, and color restore tabs checked to do one slide. It does 12 at a time. That is only the scanning, not putting in and taking out the slides. V600 is somewhat faster but you can only do 4 slides at a time so you spend more time putting in and taking out, so nothing gained using it. Probably takes much longer, overall. I personally don't think 1200 dpi is necessary since I get great enlargements (8x10 up to 13x19) at 800 dpi scans, but of course I resize everything in CS5 or CC before printing. If you're just going to view them on a monitor or large screen Tv you might prefer going with the higher dpi settings while scanning. I saw an article in PopPhoto once that said 4800 dpi but that seems wacky to me. I used to use 1200 or slightly above when I got my V600 (have three scanners) but quickly found out for printing it simply wasn't necessary. You enter a name for the slides on the scan page, set the beginning number, and let it fly. It sends files to the directory you assign, and saves in TIF, JPG, BITMAP and PNG, whichever you want it to.
Since scanning and printing old negs is what I do for a living, I'd like to chime in. First, get a pro to clean them. Best advice so far. I use a V600 and V700 for scanning mostly, though I do use a Nikon CoolScan for 35mm at times. Looked at the V500 and apparently it only scans up to 120 size negatives. For larger ones you could do multiple scans of the same negative and stitch them together with photomerge in CS or CC (maybe Elements too--not familiar with the latest versions). That's what I had to do with the V600 until I got the V700 and it works well. The person who mentioned mold hit it dead center--that is frequently the case with old poorly stored film and positives. Nothing is going to get that out. Don't even try. It etches the surface. I have lousy luck with Epson's version of ICE, only the Nikon seems to do it right, but can't hurt to try.