I apologize. I did not read your question carefully. You asked about C-22, I have no idea if that can be done.

You might try this site. I know they do 120 color film rolls. Perhaps they also will process 620. Go to the Photo Services tab. You will probably need to call or email to find out about 620.
https://www.precision-camera.com/

Beautiful.

Yes! The Koni Omega Rapid would do the trick. So would a Mamiya C330, but in both cases it would be camera abuse.

Way back in the dark ages of the mid-seventies I was a small-town newspaper photographer in Texas. Football here is very important so I had the fastest glass I could afford. High school football stadiums are usually dark. Look up Ratcliff Stadium in Odessa, the home of Friday Night Lights. With lights on four poles the place It is not too bright. I never shot a game in that stadium, I frequented other dark gridiron locations.

in those days I was shooting a Canon F-1 and a couple of AE-1s. My go-to lenses were a 50mm 1.4, 100mm 2.8, and a 200mm 2.8. These were prime lenses, good and fast zooms had not come on the scene. The newspaper suggested their solution to the darkness problem of Tri-X at ASA 6,000 souped in HC-110 Replenisher which yielded high contrast and lots of grain. I was able to have a fast enough shutter speed to get useable images. Those fast lenses taught me an important lesson, they were sharp and I could shoot wide open and often get distractions from the background out of focus enough to no longer compete with the primary subject matter. Today my digital arsenal consists of Nikon kit lenses that are sharp enough but they lack the punch found in the 24-70 2.8 or the 70-200 2.8. As someone doing photography primarily as a hobby, my lenses need not be the top-of-the-line lenses the pros are shooting, but there are good reasons why the pros shoot fast glass even when it isn't dark. Image quality.

Agreed. Once you make a deal, don't look back or search for a reason to regret your decision. You have a great lens! Enjoy it and make some beautiful images that are worth more to you than the cost of the lens.

I also have a camera box collection taking up space that could be put to better use. Most of my digital equipment is not high-dollar stuff.

Beautiful

Thank you so very much for the description and the photo. We are surrounded by such great beauty, even at 23 million light years away. Amazing, but I am glad we are at a safe distance. Galactic interaction looks dangerous!

This may be more of an answer than you want but here goes. I remember a Nikon ad on the back of a photography magazine from back in the early seventies. It was of sailboats racing in blue water on an overcast and windy day. Everything was in motion and the bokeh on the highlights of the waves made elongated circles. For me, that unique quality of a mirror lens was used to good advantage.
Sometime in the nineties, I bought a used Nikon 500mm f/8. Today it is so old all the foam in the attractive leather lens case has turned to dust. When I switched to a DSLR I had to modify the lens so it would fit on the camera body. A friendly and generous machinist ground the tripod base so it would fit on the camera which allowed me to rotate it 90 degrees from a horizontal to a vertical format.
I have used it for my limited forays into astrophotography. What appeared to me to be a soft image was often because I had overexposed the image and failed to properly adjust the color temperature.
Focusing the lens is a challenge, especially in low light, so I often use a magnifier on the eyepiece. That helps. Also, the conversion on my D-90 from full-frame SLR is about 1.5, rendering the effective focal length to something around 750mm. any telephoto that long demands a sturdy tripod. Because of the time required to do everything manually, this is not a good sports or a wildlife lens. I rarely use it but there have been situations in which the lens was ideal for me.

Way back in the dark ages I made one out of a piece of window screen mesh. Worked well. Virtually no cost. Next, I took some mesh women's hose and made a soft-focus filter. Ate about two stops but gave a good enough image to earn a blue ribbon in a competition.

Several months go I ordered an infrared filter, R-72, for low cost from Amazon. It makes some interesting images and I fooled around with it for a while. Drawbacks are long exposures. Tripod is a necessity. The image you see on your display won't tell you much because it is all magenta. So you do a little bracketing, fool around with focus because modern lenses don't have the little red R showing where to adjust your focus. shoot with a medium aperture, which further increases the exposure time. All it all, a dedicated camera appears to be a better choice if you are planning to do a lot of IR photography. There are also other filters that pass more visible spectrum light.
The two attachments are the same exposure, one is what the camera gave. The other has been processed to remove the magenta and turned 90 drgre3e3s.

Nicely done. I like the lighting and overall hue.

Bresson had an original approach. He shot using a Leica with a 50mm Sumocron wide open at f/2. Everything else was up to his original way of seeing things. He influenced and inspired generations of street photographers.

DHRoberts is spot on. Use the Telescope lens, but not the eyepiece or your camera lens. Watch your exposure times to keep the images sharp. It does not take long for star streaking to make your images fuzzy

I used to photograph pets with strobes and background commercially. establishing rapport with the animal is essential. Some small treats are sometimes useful. I found dogs did better with the dog on a table and owner present. Using something that made a noise to get their attention without frightening them such as squeaky toy helped with canine alertness. Pet photography can be as frustrating as shooting small children. Sometimes the subject does not want to be the subject. Good luck.
If you are wanting actions shots, such as at a dog park. Follow the advice already given. Low angle. I like to set my camera on the sports setting giving a limited depth of field, or aperture priority choosing an aperture with the depth of field you want and shoot a lot. Action shots such a a Lab launching itself into the water are interesting but might mean you are going to get wet.