Agree 100% although I have my own boxed versions of my software and have not went onto the "cloud" ;-)

A.J.

Wishing you the best in Your Decisions regarding post processing of pictures taken with a camera ( whether raw, tif, jpeg etc. ).

Suggestions :
First -- learn your camera -- time well spent.
Second -- know for what your are going to use your pictures.
Third -- learn which lenses you need.
Fourth -- get the picture right in the camera ( take your time )

Fifth -- Adobe photoshop products are many -- it is the industry standard -- do not be penny wise and pound foolish in the the long run, listening to those that do not know or have not taken time to learn photoshop, albeit not the only photo editing tool. Adobe lightroom is worth your looking. Note that there are many plug-ins to these adobe programs. A good mentor can show you the advantages of each of the various programs.

Sixth -- beware of compatibility issues of hardware, software, and file types. ( your operating system, your browser, your computer system processor and memory etc .... )

Change is for certain and one has to decide how to face change... whether it be camera, computer, operating systems, browsers, memory types,.... ) I migrated from PC to mac when I started 2 photography businesses in 2006 at the advice of a person that had edited for Walt Disney of Hollywood -- I no longer write and compile my own editing programs -- I have tried many different post processing programs ( applications )... I remained with Adobe CS5extended and lightroom and PhotoMechanics, a standalone app by camera bits in Portland, Oregon ( probably one of the fastest rendering programs on the market ). Shooting raw give you all information camera could gather at time of shooting depending on settings etc... shooting in jpeg high resolution may be just fine for one ...depending on what they are going to do with the picture....

There is no end to learning, regardless of what kind of photography you are going to be doing... Best wishes and HAVE fun as you enjoy your journey...

Best wishes, Ed

You must put a lot of value on that camera ( D800 ) which you have had for 1.5 years. One can now get a D800 for under 2000 usd ( just saw ad for 2049 usd) when I logged into UH. As with most digital and old film cameras their value goes down. Even with low shutter actuations ( 7000 you mentioned ). Shutter actuation is not the only thing to consider -- the sensor's age is very important too. Best wishes in selling your camera. CHANGE is one word you can be sure of in this world today -- always has been a certain thing, CHANGE. I am a nikon shooter, and even the D4s will have a very limited shelf life for resale. Some of nikon's greatest cameras they have discontinued -- I tested the world of digital with nikon's D50, and purchased all cameras since.... D50 no longer available, D300 no longer available, D3 no longer available.... etc... de ja vue . Remember you have to let go of something to move on.. into the "Future". ;=)

At only 15-20 feet away with a 300mm lens, using a tripod, you should be able to get a great picture of even small birds... FILL your frame before you snap the picture; and, there is software that can downsize as well as up size pictures within limits. You may have to physically get closer or get a longer reaching lens depending on distance of your subject from camera.

Using a 800mm lens, like nikons, will work also -- but still fill the frame before snapping the picture and use A tripod, especially if at a feeder... Picture of a 800 mm nikon lens.. attached to nikon camera... lot of weight... in money.

I agree with advice from PhotographerJim...

I happen to use Adobe photoshop CS5extended & CS6suite suite. and LightRoom3 & 4

Hello to a new budding photographer,
At first, make it fun.... using a camera 12 mp... wowie...

If this was your first car, Learn the basics, then start out in 1st gear, then 2nd gear, then 3rd gear, then 4th gear... and onward as you have each gear under control. Just trying to shotgun approach driving a car can has discouraging affects;albeit, the same with a new camera.

Keep it fun -- everybody has a camera of sorts today .... keep it fun; and, just maybe she might find it as a hobby or a profession... but too many people try to start out in 4th gear not knowing the machine had a 1st gear.

Keep it FUN
Since it is DIGITAL, Camera basics, work flow from picking up a camera and choosing a lens to the post processing and archiving or deleting a picture, computers & peripheals... software ... There is no one book or a quick fix to be photographer... Enjoy the journey... I did not list specifics because you have to choose the path and where you want to go....
HAve FUN... Look at the big picture of photography first, then pick out where you need to start to get from A to your desired destination (s).

Hello,
When I downloaded picture you have here to my downloads on my mac deck, "thumbnail" 16kb -- small pic and information lacking...

Although the word "Impossible" is cut our of my dictionaries, you need the "original" picture that the photographer took to do anything satisfactory to this picture.. I might say this pic is better than no picture at all .... disregarding the technical aspects of photography. One could, in camera raw, take out some of noise, and then transport to photo shop and use levels on it and then do some sharpening... but I would not waste my time on what I downloaded ( too small )

Alan,
I went from PC to MAC desktop and learned LR, Photoshop CS5 extended, etc through various ways -- NAPP is an association which you can join for $79 - $99 / year and Scott Kelby is the CEO. Price gets you membership, many discounts, photoshop magazine, etc... If you sign up tell them Ed Steinmetz sent you and I will also get an additional two months attached onto my membership.. ;=) Everyone I have referred to NAPP has thanked me many times over. Great instructors and great association -- most bang for the buck.

Lynda is another group online -- that cost usually about $25/mo... and you can tackle each subject in a sequential manner from beginning to end . Great instructors also.

Shane Goldberg of photoshop zoo is another person that is certified adobe expert... great... but I like access to more than 1 person instructing, like in NAPP above or Lynda ( Lynda cost more money )

To supplement any of the above you can always utube google. But I do believe either NAPP ( National Association of Photoshop Professionals ) or Lynda will get you set up right to begin with and then you can explore out from there.

Good luck,
Ed

Everyone is concerned about shutter actuations -- consider the sensor... it ages with the camera too... sometimes more than shutter ...

Your D7000-- keep in mind your camera has a crop factor of 1.5.
Depending on what shooting your are doing, I would stick with all FX lenses, as you can use on both your DX and maybe later a DX body, if you happen to purchase such in future.

I shoot nikon; and, have used other lenses, but prefer to stay with the nikon lenses of best quality. Another brand that is great is the Tokina Pro lenses. I would look at Tokina PRO lenses ( very high quality build ) over other 3rd party lenses.... first.

In my collection of lenses, I have all that you mention--
The 85mm image stabilization VR ( FX)
the 28-300 image stabilization VR II (FX)
the 70-200 image stabilization VR II (FX)

There are really no short cuts is buying a good lens...

STRESS:
regardless whether your nikon camera is a DX or FX, when carrying the camera(s) with heavy lenses attached, it is advisable to not let the camera hang from any strap with lens hanging... according to nikon. When a strap is attached to bottom of camera and lens is attached to camera, the stress of such weight is really not good on the lens mount of the camera...


"For some reason photographers like to pack their lenses attached to their camera bodies. For some even stranger reason photographers seem to pack their longer, heavier, lenses attached to their camera bodies. Why do photographers pack this way? I have no idea.
When you pack your equipment you should think of Sir Isaac Newton and his theory that an object in motion will remain in motion until something stops the motion. Another way to look at this is that that a force of impact on your camera will need to dissipate that force.
Newton’s theory looks something like this: see attached pic


So what does this mean for photographers when they pack their 70-200f2.8 attached to their Nikon D700 body? It means that if your bag should sustain an impact the force through your camera, or through your lens, will transfer from one object to the next, often damaging the weakest link. What is usually the weakest link between a camera and a lens? The mount!
If your bag is dropped, knocked, hit, or otherwise ‘whacked’ your camera body can be spun one way while your lens is spun another way. The result of this impact is you torquing the two mounts significantly damaging both your camera and your lens.
If you pack your body and your lens separately the twisting motion of the camera body and the lens are only felt by the body and the lens individually. The impact dissipates into the padding of the bag. Since neither your camera body or your lens is attached to the bag there is no damage to either the camera or the lens.
I have heard many photographers say, “If my camera is attached to my lens then I can act faster to capture the photo.” I have news for you, if you need to put your backpack down, open the flap and remove your camera and lens kit……….you’ve already ‘missed the moment.’
In news and fast paced situations and I can’t think of a single moment where I thought, “if only my camera and lens were attached in my bag I might have captured that image.”
Fleeting moments happen non-stop.

You’ll see photos all day long if you’re looking, and if that is your intention you need to travel with your cameras out, on your shoulders, ready to shoot.

When you pack your equipment you need to pack it securely. Pack your gear relatively snug so it does not bounce. You need to maximize your space in small area of a bag, backpack or rolling case.
Not only does traveling with your lens attached to your camera significantly increase the chances of damaging your camera equipment while traveling, but it also decreases your packing flexibility. When you pack your camera body and your lenses detached from each other you increase the space in your bag to pack more effectively. By having each item separate you are no longer packing ‘around a camera-lens combo,’ you are free to stand lenses up, stack lenses, lay lenses down, adjust the location of our camera body within the bag.

All of these elements make for a safer and more practical way to pack your equipment ..."

Remember This: Just because others purchase "equipment" to "suspend their camera with heavy lenses " when not in use does not make it a good idea for you -- The "stress" will take its toll on your camera equipment.... at your expense sooner or later, or the person that purchases your equipment in the future.

The D700 is no longer available according to B&H ( although in Europe maybe ) -- therefore if one finds a new D700, regardless from whom you purchase it, it may be higher than the D800, because of supply and demand -- although the D700 camera is now considered "older technology" when compared with D800,D800e, D600, D4 it is still used by many photographers

Take a look at this video from some quick test(s) comparisons.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPyYm38AC7Y

Note: in the last 6 months, I have noticed that the D700 camera, if new, has gone up in price. B&H also indicates no longer available as of the looking today. Although the D700 camera, is " older now ", still a nice FX camera and compatible with the dx D300

My preferences: D4, the D800 models, and the D600, and the D700 -- as I have all the cameras from the D50 to current, it depends on how, what purpose, and where you are going to use
any camera you decide to purchase. \
I HAVE NOT purchased any of my camera bodies or lenses on line -- rather I purchase at authorized nikon dealers ( brick and mortar stores ). In regard to Amazon etc, I have purchased other items and have good luck; albeit, regardless of whom one buys any items, it is always a good idea to shop around, sometimes disregarding the well intended opinions of some people -- do ones own homework before making any purchase.


Good nikon lenses are always a good investment, if shooting with nikon cameras...

I happen to shoot with nikon cameras --
Tethering to a lap top is fantastic, albeit, some do not do it because they say it is to slow.

Light room 3 & 4 allow you to tether to a lap top or computer -- I like tethering to computer, desktop or laptop, because I it can be much more trustworthy than the LCD on back of any digital camera; and you can do quick adjustments for similar shots ahead of the actual shooting, say in my studio.

PS: I do not use aperture although on my computer to tether, although one is able, I have heard.




NOTE: Some programs ( whether tethering or others ) are only supported by certain operating systems and required certain system requirements -- any time somebody suggest a " program, first, " always " look at the system requirements, including the operating system(s) that supports these programs.

What is the end result that you want from your shooting -- Studio primarily -- lenses are the best investment regardless what shooting you -- maybe one can consider an investment.

If you went full frame, but I would not most likely, although I have all nikon cameras from D50 onward... to the latest... it must be good marketing or my curiosity won out over costs.


Again it is usually the person behind the camera rather than camera and all its "goodies ". Some are using iphone in their studio now... no kidding.

Regarding Nikon camera bodies -- They no longer make some dx bodies- for instance the D50 and the D300;albeit, they no longer in production, the D50 was a great camera as was the D300 in correct lighting. The D3, an FX body, is no longer in production, yet it is a great camera.

What you are going to do or do with your pictures will help you determine which camera you will purchase. Do not buy a D3X if you are going to shoot pictures for people that want you to relay the pictures to their iphone.

Really, you will find price between d3100 (14mp) and d7000 (16.2mp) , about $400 and & 800 respectively for the bodies only. If you are shooting in studio primarily -- either camera will work great with your lenses. Save your monies, do not get wrapped up in the "coolness " of having the "artillery" of camera gear that I or someone else has or promotes. All Camera manufacturers want their inventory in your inventory...

In studio, On a full frame, I shoot with a nikon 70-200 in studio, an 85 prime, or 105 prime. Lighting is very controlled in studio generally with elinchrome and RF control . I shoot with a nikon crop sensor sometimes... Depends on what you are trying to do and the effect you want.

Photography reminds me of my owning a boat, you can throw much money at it and it really does not improve it that much -- it is like throwing your money into a hole into the water.... Move slowly -- do not get caught up in the "HYPE". or bias of others, learn with what you have.

Experience over 40 yrs studio/outdoors/ weddings/portraiture.... I thought last night that I should just start shooting with a cell phone or point and shoot with less MP count so people can get photos more quickly on their iphones etc and other mobile devices.

There is no one way... there is always another way and it may be your way.

I stand with Nikonian72 on this D600. And that is the advantage of buying new -- warranty. Think about those selling D600 to other purchasers and they have no warranty ( unless, like some seem to think, have the seller send it in if there is a problem within the warranty period -- )... Not my way of doing business, albeit, others find it satisfactory sometimes.

The manufacturer should step up to the plate to find a solution to a known and repetitive problem... such as the lubricant getting onto the sensor.

Even if one learns to clean their cameras sensor -- there are risks taken if you do not do it all the time. Even Pro Photo sends their cameras out to specific shops in Portland, Oregon, to clean a customer's digital camera sensor. Pro Photo said it is just to much liability to do it themselves... They told me who did it for them and I have all my nikon DX and FX sensor cleaned when needed ( $50 for FX and $100 for FX -- includes cleaning camera up too and if not done well they perform over if necessary at no expense to camera owner ).

If one wants to buy a faulty product, knowing it is faulty, one is not doing the industry's customers any favors in the short or long term.