Posts for: rond-photography
May 14, 2019 10:02:38 #
DAN Phillips wrote:
Personally, I would rather see SOOC than overcooked unreality!
I agree. Unfortunately, some folks think that the photo has to look crunchy! Post processing should usually be done, but the result should not make it look obvious that it was post processed. Just do enough to get white balance acceptable, sharpening that doesn't over do it, and bring out detail in shadows and highlighted areas.
May 14, 2019 07:25:51 #
digit-up wrote:
So...I’m asking for any and all tips on the use of “Affinity”. And it is great not to be bothered with ANY monthly/yearly payment. Any POINTERS will be much appreciated. RJM 
In addition to all the links, tips, etc others have supplied, remember that most of the terms used in Photoshop (layers, masks, selections, adjustment, etc) are not unique to PS. If you are familiar with PS (full blown or Elements) then you already know a lot about Affinity.
May 14, 2019 07:10:34 #
unduki wrote:
This might seem like a dumb question, but it's how... (show quote)
Think back on your experiences with manually processing film. The results from what you sent to the corner drug store for processing were always disappointing and not what you remembered shooting. When you adjust in the dark room to make it look like you remember is so much more satisfying.
Now, you do it without all the chemicals and for free!
Yes, I process all my photos. However, if a particular photo is destined for a contest, a potential sale at an art fair, or is for a client, I put a little extra effort into it.
If I am shooting a bunch of photos that are just "memories" to share with family and friends, I often just hit the AUTO button in LightRoom (or elements back in the day) and then sharpen it.
Don't forget to sharpen - it is not a fix for focus problems, but instead is an adjustment for the physical nature of the sensor that breaks the image into tiny pixels.
May 13, 2019 06:53:38 #
Rloren wrote:
Hello... br My current objective for now is editin... (show quote)
I use LR almost exclusively. However, for HDR, if you do your shoots that way, it is horribly slow. I got Photomatix to process the HDR on my real estate shoots. It does it in batch mode, so you just start it and walk away (for a few minutes). It is very quick, but you will still probably want to adjust some of the results in LR.
As someone pointed out, you might need to clone out a flash reflection, etc. However, you can do this with PS Elements, Affinity, ON1, and many other non-subscription programs.
May 12, 2019 08:41:03 #
Bonnie Halsell wrote:
Learned this tip from a pro wildlife and bird spotter: keep your eyes on the subject and bring your camera up to your eye. Took a little practice not to cheat and look for the camera.
Also, make sure it is your dominant eye that you put to the view finder. I am left eye dominant and usually I will find my subject immediately when I raise the camera to my eye. Keep both eyes open, too.
Google how to determine which eye is dominant if you are not sure.
May 12, 2019 08:37:48 #
GalaxyCat wrote:
I just now got a Photoshop and Lightroom subscription, after many, many years of resisting...
But my files from my new Olympus OM-D E-M5 II are too big (I'm capturing both RAW and LN), to even post here. I can't find any menu to reduce a copy of a jpg to a smaller file, without cropping?
Is there a way to do it?
I know I have to buy books now, and google stuff...
Thanks for someone's help. Everyone at UHH are the nicest in the world.
But my files from my new Olympus OM-D E-M5 II are too big (I'm capturing both RAW and LN), to even post here. I can't find any menu to reduce a copy of a jpg to a smaller file, without cropping?
Is there a way to do it?
I know I have to buy books now, and google stuff...
Thanks for someone's help. Everyone at UHH are the nicest in the world.
In Lightroom, during Export, you have the option of setting the file size. You can choose a maximum number of bytes (under File Settings), or a specific dimension (under Image Sizing).
Just be aware that when you make those choices, Lightroom will not prompt you the next time you export and remind you that you are resizing. This can be a problem if your intent is a full size export and you forget to check those settings. I am guilty of just hitting Ctrl-Shift-E and then Enter without checking, so I have had some results that left me wondering where my export went or why it is not as it should be!
May 12, 2019 06:45:25 #
GalaxyCat wrote:
Here's a quick picture from my new Olympus OM-D E-M5 II camera, and I played with Lightroom Classic CC for a while and decided that I just wanted to saturate the red and blue colors a little. After years of resisting, I now have Adobe's PhotoShop and Lightroom subscription for $10.61 a month, including Massachusetts sales tax.
Just being a little picky here, but can you straighten the horizon while you are at it? Use the cropping tool and adjust the slider (or try AUTO or the level where you drag a line through the reference points to straighten).
Good choice on the subscription. It is a good deal, and so far, I have not spent what it would have cost to buy PS and upgrade it each year!
May 11, 2019 07:38:07 #
Patsworld wrote:
Is there still a way to purchase the stand alone Photoshop software without doing the Cloud and monthly subscription method? Thank you in advance for your response.
Elements is a good choice. It has all the photographic components you need to do what photographers do in PS. It has layer masks, content aware fill, quick select, yada yada. PS is geared toward the printing industry. By that, we mean the printing with ink on a printing press. If you are not sending your output to a printing press, you don't need all that other stuff, and Adobe puts most of the "good" photo related stuff into Elements (that is why it is "Elements").
There is tremendous support for Elements - get a Scott Kelby book for it and you will be quite happy!
May 9, 2019 10:05:50 #
DeanS wrote:
My only significant complaint regarding the E-M1 MkII was the menu system. I found the menus to be abear to navigate.
They are extensive. However, for most of what you actually use on a camera (aperture, shutter speed, iso, focus control, WB, etc) you never need to go beyond the dials and buttons on the body. When I need to do something that is not covered there, and not accessible on the super control panel, I Google it. Lots of people with time on their hands have figured out a lot of stuff I don't even think of trying!
May 9, 2019 08:42:41 #
latebloomer wrote:
Opinion on Olympus Purchase 20190508 br I would li... (show quote)
Beyond technical capabilities of a camera, the way it feels in your hand should be the number one priority. Not silly. I am thinking from the mention of "M1" and "II", as well as being the "second most expensive" Olympus, that you are looking at the OMD M1 II (not M10).
Definitely a great camera and my current main camera. You will love it. I understand your concern over grip on the Pen F. I have rented it twice and finally bought an OMD M10 II as my "small" camera. Not as many pixels as the Pen F, but actually a little smaller and a better grip (but not as good as on the M1). Have fun!
May 7, 2019 08:18:13 #
chrissybabe wrote:
Not too sure just why you would want the liquid inside the camera.
Proof read because without it you can lead others to make serious mistakes.
Proof read because without it you can lead others to make serious mistakes.
May 5, 2019 06:51:48 #
xptom wrote:
Can you use Adobe Bridge with Affinity Photo Editor, or do you know of another DAM program that would work?
Just tried it. The answer is YES.
Default is to open photos with PS (of course). But, interestingly, if you edit Preferences | File Type Associations, you can associate a file type (such as .psd) with Affinity (Photo.exe). You will still have the option of opening with PS if you want, but the default will now be Affinity.
May 4, 2019 07:55:27 #
Juy wrote:
I see and hear all the time that if you have a so ... (show quote)
Odd that we spend so much time obsessing on this. It is not a new concept. We just didn't think about it when the 35MM camera was invented. Here are the focal length equivalents from 35MM compared to 4X5 and 8X10 cameras. Put a 135MM lens on your FF camera and you have the equivalent of a 900MM on a larger camera. Same concept putting a 135MM on your 4/3 camera, just a different calculation.
Approximate equivalents of lens focal length
35mm 4x5 8x10
20mm 65mm 120mm
24mm 75mm 155mm
28mm 90mm 200mm
35mm 115mm 240mm
45mm 150mm 300mm
52mm 180mm 360mm
63mm 210mm 420mm
90mm 300mm 600mm
105mm 360mm 720mm
135mm 480mm 900mm
May 4, 2019 07:46:41 #
Black Elk Peak wrote:
In Lightroom I edit my RAW photo and then export i... (show quote)
Yes to both. Open any supported image file (.psd, .tif, .jpg, etc) and edit it. It is a full feature editor with most of the capabilities of PS.
May 3, 2019 08:12:36 #
jerryc41 wrote:
Have any of you seen Tony's video about how important good gear is in photography? We keep getting responses here saying that the gear doesn't matter. It's the photographer that makes the picture. I've never believed that, and that's why I buy a new camera occasionally. Otherwise, I'd still be using my parents' old Kodak box camera.
The D750 is my main camera, and when I use something else, the results are not as good.
The D750 is my main camera, and when I use something else, the results are not as good.
I have to agree that the equipment does make a huge difference, but the photographer makes the photo. Give a monkey a Hasselblad and you MIGHT get a good photo eventually. Give a good photographer a good, consumer grade digital or film camera, and you WILL get some good photos!
I think there are a lot of people who aren't satisfied with results and get a better camera, when they should be learning how to make better photos!