Glad that I had my 1st DSLR (D70) converted with 720nm filter installed. Hand-held shots are easy, no more 10 to 20 second exposures, tripod, focus set up, screw in the filter, etc. etc . Of course, one really needs sunshine, and suitable subject matter. Have fun!!
Hanson wrote:
Any suggestion to convert 35 mm color negative film to digital image?
My Canon Canoscan has a setting in the programme to do the conversion Auto. When I do conversions through the camera, I do a 'White Balance; through a piece of Processed (No image)negative film strip.
I have the 18-- 35 Sigma Art lens for my Nikon crop cameras. Great optics. You should be pleased with it.
I used to find the 45 degree metered prism finder was good for Aerial shooting. That was some time ago...70mm film-back, and power wind.
Although heavier than my Hasselblad, I liked the RZ because of the higher flash sync' speeds. My Bronica S2 was sync' at 1/40 second. Not so good for fill-flash outdoors in sunshine.
I went with the Mamiya RZ for the 6x7 format, and my 'Standard' lens was the 110mm. f/2.8 . I also had the 37mm RB Fish-Eye , 50mm. 65mm. and 250mm. lenses. I got the 6 x 7 outfit, as I had just clinched a 3 year progress photography deal of a Factory building project. I started using 6x6 format, but the Site Manager wanted 10" x 8" set of colour prints every month. To save cropping SQ negs I went for 6 x 7. Not sure if Pentax was on the scene in 1967. Cannot help with value for selling. Have not considered it for my outfit.
First camera I used, was an older brother's Ensign Full View. Most of the time (only 11 plus) I had no film. The cheapest 'Film' was 'Gratispool' (Glasgow based) Paper negatives. Send the film off to them , they would process , send prints, and a replacement Gratispool film. That was in the 1940's/ 50's. The first camera that I bought, was from Woolworths, think it was made from Bakalite. Laid on it's back, it looked just like a military tank (but much smaller). It took 127 film , had two red windows to see the numbers on the film-back. In use Number 1 was wound to the first window, and exposure made... Number 1 was wound to the second red window and another exposure made. Then number 2 was wound to the first red window etc..etc... Using the 16 numbers one could get 32 pictures. (with a bit of luck, and concentration). It was small simple and handy to take with me on cycle-rides. my other passion. First decent camera I could buy was the Corfield Periflex...First real SLR, was the Practica Super with Tessar lens. Such happy days ...experimenting with chemicals in the dark-room.
It's the logical approach. Glad to help.
swflaboatman wrote:
TY Pablo8...."Equal amounts of red/green/blue".......of all the many vids and articles I have seen on this subject.. I have not seen this ... Finally!! The light bulb goes on!
It's the logical approach. Glad to help.
Don't have an iphone............SO.. assume I will be safe... P.S. don't have a Pacemaker either..
I did use my 10"x 8" Kodak grey cards for a number of years (Pre Digital Days). They became rather scuffed/marked. so along came a Plastic Exposure disc, 5" diameter Grey one side , and white on the other. A fine pattern on both sides, if one needed to check/ pre set focus. No manufacturers name , but "Full Colour Balance Disc" is marked around the edge of the disc.. Have used the disc from APS frame up to 5 x 4 neg size set ups. If one includes it within a sample shot, the grey, or white side can be read with PS or whatever editing programme one uses. If this reads as neutral (Equal amounts of red/green/blue ) then a good colour balance will be assured. If you do NOT want a neutral balance, then don't bother using a Grey/White card reading. Just "Stick your finger in the air and guess", if it pleases you.
DWU2 wrote:
Can anyone identify whether the following f/3.5 24mm tilt-shift lenses are in any way different?
- Bower SLY24TSC 24mm f/3.5 ($649.99)
- Samyang Tilt-Shift SYTS24-C 24mm f/3.5 ($729)
- Rokinon TSL24M-C 24mm f/3.5 ($799)
They appear to be of identical appearance. Do they differ regarding glass quality, warranty, or in other ways? Or, are they just 3 different labels of the same lens?
I would say that the Rokinon is the better (Best) lens, as it costs more than the others.!! s that lateral thinking??
I'll stick with the Nikon D6.
Don't sit there reading what he wrote. Get out and use the new camera.!!
Why are you wasting your time on the computer. get out and use the camera!!