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Posts for: Pablo8
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Feb 17, 2021 03:52:32   #
Glad that I had my 1st DSLR (D70) converted with 720nm filter installed. Hand-held shots are easy, no more 10 to 20 second exposures, tripod, focus set up, screw in the filter, etc. etc . Of course, one really needs sunshine, and suitable subject matter. Have fun!!
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Feb 12, 2021 03:52:07   #
Hanson wrote:
Any suggestion to convert 35 mm color negative film to digital image?


My Canon Canoscan has a setting in the programme to do the conversion Auto. When I do conversions through the camera, I do a 'White Balance; through a piece of Processed (No image)negative film strip.
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Feb 2, 2021 08:03:00   #
I have the 18-- 35 Sigma Art lens for my Nikon crop cameras. Great optics. You should be pleased with it.
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Feb 2, 2021 03:47:22   #
I used to find the 45 degree metered prism finder was good for Aerial shooting. That was some time ago...70mm film-back, and power wind.
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Feb 1, 2021 04:13:55   #
Although heavier than my Hasselblad, I liked the RZ because of the higher flash sync' speeds. My Bronica S2 was sync' at 1/40 second. Not so good for fill-flash outdoors in sunshine.
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Jan 31, 2021 04:59:24   #
I went with the Mamiya RZ for the 6x7 format, and my 'Standard' lens was the 110mm. f/2.8 . I also had the 37mm RB Fish-Eye , 50mm. 65mm. and 250mm. lenses. I got the 6 x 7 outfit, as I had just clinched a 3 year progress photography deal of a Factory building project. I started using 6x6 format, but the Site Manager wanted 10" x 8" set of colour prints every month. To save cropping SQ negs I went for 6 x 7. Not sure if Pentax was on the scene in 1967. Cannot help with value for selling. Have not considered it for my outfit.
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Jan 30, 2021 02:37:12   #
First camera I used, was an older brother's Ensign Full View. Most of the time (only 11 plus) I had no film. The cheapest 'Film' was 'Gratispool' (Glasgow based) Paper negatives. Send the film off to them , they would process , send prints, and a replacement Gratispool film. That was in the 1940's/ 50's. The first camera that I bought, was from Woolworths, think it was made from Bakalite. Laid on it's back, it looked just like a military tank (but much smaller). It took 127 film , had two red windows to see the numbers on the film-back. In use Number 1 was wound to the first window, and exposure made... Number 1 was wound to the second red window and another exposure made. Then number 2 was wound to the first red window etc..etc... Using the 16 numbers one could get 32 pictures. (with a bit of luck, and concentration). It was small simple and handy to take with me on cycle-rides. my other passion. First decent camera I could buy was the Corfield Periflex...First real SLR, was the Practica Super with Tessar lens. Such happy days ...experimenting with chemicals in the dark-room.
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Jan 29, 2021 03:11:44   #
Rab-Eye wrote:
Same here!


It's the logical approach. Glad to help.
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Jan 29, 2021 03:10:08   #
swflaboatman wrote:
TY Pablo8...."Equal amounts of red/green/blue".......of all the many vids and articles I have seen on this subject.. I have not seen this ... Finally!! The light bulb goes on!


It's the logical approach. Glad to help.
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Jan 28, 2021 03:21:18   #
Don't have an iphone............SO.. assume I will be safe... P.S. don't have a Pacemaker either..
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Jan 28, 2021 03:04:21   #
I did use my 10"x 8" Kodak grey cards for a number of years (Pre Digital Days). They became rather scuffed/marked. so along came a Plastic Exposure disc, 5" diameter Grey one side , and white on the other. A fine pattern on both sides, if one needed to check/ pre set focus. No manufacturers name , but "Full Colour Balance Disc" is marked around the edge of the disc.. Have used the disc from APS frame up to 5 x 4 neg size set ups. If one includes it within a sample shot, the grey, or white side can be read with PS or whatever editing programme one uses. If this reads as neutral (Equal amounts of red/green/blue ) then a good colour balance will be assured. If you do NOT want a neutral balance, then don't bother using a Grey/White card reading. Just "Stick your finger in the air and guess", if it pleases you.
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Jan 27, 2021 03:24:11   #
DWU2 wrote:
Can anyone identify whether the following f/3.5 24mm tilt-shift lenses are in any way different?

- Bower SLY24TSC 24mm f/3.5 ($649.99)
- Samyang Tilt-Shift SYTS24-C 24mm f/3.5 ($729)
- Rokinon TSL24M-C 24mm f/3.5 ($799)

They appear to be of identical appearance. Do they differ regarding glass quality, warranty, or in other ways? Or, are they just 3 different labels of the same lens?


I would say that the Rokinon is the better (Best) lens, as it costs more than the others.!! s that lateral thinking??
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Jan 27, 2021 03:16:10   #
I'll stick with the Nikon D6.
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Jan 27, 2021 03:11:37   #
Don't sit there reading what he wrote. Get out and use the new camera.!!
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Jan 27, 2021 03:10:25   #
Why are you wasting your time on the computer. get out and use the camera!!
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