At least it’s not hidden !

It would appear that the zoom ring must be at 50mm to operate the macro ring. Pull the zoom to 50, press the silver button and rotate the ring to a hard stop by rotating to the left as viewed from the user’s viewpoint (same as posted photo). Reasonable to assume the button will pop out when you reach the hard stop.

If the ring is already locked in the non macro, normal use position, unlock and run thru the macro sector and back to normal a coupla times in case something is hung up inside. If all this doesn’t get you back to normal, do realize the value of the lens is about $15 and just move on.

Is it possible to fake a color that a person who is color blind cannot see or distinguish?

I do a lot of presentations to cactus & succulent clubs throughout the nation on nature's geometry in succulents. One day a color-blind person recommended that I not use red arrows and green arrows on the same slide because both colors looked the same to him. And certainly don't say, "The red arrow shows.... and the green arrow shows...." I took his recommendation to heart and changed my presentation to take that into account.

Some of you may remember me. I used to post a lot of images and been pretty inactive for awhile. Currently, I have no camera or lenses and decided to start from scratch. So, I'm going back to my old workhorse from years ago. Enter Canon 7D. It may not be the best choice in the world, but I know this camera can do the job.

I found one on Ebay that comes with a Sigma 18-250 DC HSM lens for $350! I couldn't pass it up. The camera looks solid and there seem to be no issues. So, I hoping to post some new images soon with this set up.

Thank you! For close up /macro I use the Canon 100mm L lens, and the above pictures were taken with the Canon t3i body (consumer grade crop sensor). The flash is the wonky Venus/Laowa dual head flash. The diffusers are a pair of Chinese instant noodle bowls, lined with silver cardstock paper from an art supply store. There are two spaced apart layers of that thin packing foam material that cover the front of the bowls, plus an extra strip of foam directly in front of the bulb in the flash heads. You can see the Exif data at the link. I try to photograph for background lighting, so I have to 'push' things at times like shooting at ISO 400, even though that adds noise in this camera.
I photograph in Raw, though I rarely take advantage of that (I should!). Rather, export as a big Jpeg and do Post processing usually in Gimp. I always crop to compose (sometimes a lot), and it really helps to use the G'Mic plug-in in Gimp to do de-noise. Then unsharp mask. Both of these at their default settings. Other post processing in Gimp that I commonly use is to play around with the shadows and highlights sliders, or maybe the curves tool. Export as a jpeg, reduced to 95% which really brings the file size down from 10+ Mb to around 3 Mb.