sscnxy

While mowing my lawn today, I saw this mantis desperately scrambling to get out of the way, so I gently scooped it up and put it in a cup for a portrait session later. Studying it’s activity all the while the mantis was perched on a plant on my kitchen counter, I was intrigued by how purposeful its behavior was. It appeared to groom its front legs like a house cat, turn its head in the direction of commotion, and climb further away from the camera lens as if to keep its distance when I tried to position the mantis for better depth of field. After a half hour of my invading its privacy on the plant’s stems, the mantis acted as if it had had enough and would repeatedly hop off the plant onto the countertop. It wanted out, so I released it onto the hedge outside, after I had grabbed a few shots. Learning to shoot macro has programmed me to pay attention to the behavior of every nifty little critter. They have personalities.

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sscnxy

I am seeking the recommendations of UHH's fine group of macro shooters with regard to how I can improve upon my macro photography techniques. I used an on-camera speedlight capped with a small white, mitten style modifier for lighting. Thus, the catchlights show up in the compound eyes. Is there a better way to light insects? With regard to lighting, I'd like to stick with simple DIY modifiers, rather than succumb to a GAS attack for ring lights. Any suggestions on how to do better DIY type macro lighting.
In addition, I think the images would've been better with a more 3-D look if the background appeared more separated from the subject, just like for portraiture.
With regard to focus, I think I've reached the limit of sharpness because I'd already resorted to using the max magnification in live view mode to manually focus and then release the shutter with a remote cord. What I've noticed whenever I use live view with max magnification is that the lens' focus ring throw distance is not long enough, so trying to nail the sharpest magnification with my fingers is hard. I usually have to tweak the focus ring back and forth watching the detailed image until my eyes feel convinced that focus has been achieved. Any suggestions on how I can get focus any better? Yes, the camera was on a good tripod.

I do appreciate any advice to help me improve.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I had meant to comment on this one earlier!
These are very nice pictures, and good observations. Their ain't nothing like a mantis. They look at you, and sometimes you realize: It's wondering if it could eat me! This one is the European mantis, a species imported from Europe. The way to tell is the bold markings on the front legs. Also the dark eyes suggest that this may have been photographed in the early morning. Their eyes turn black at night, and slowly lighten in the day. Seeing them with pure black eyes is pretty spooky.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I had a chance to look at the exif data on the last picture.
Shutter: 1/250. Good. That will stop movements, especially with the flash. It can be slower, though, since you can then adjust other settings to make use of the additional light. You can even get away with 1/80 or slower if you are well braced and the subject is still. Again the flash helps. I understand a restless mantis is challenging, though.
Aperture: f/16. This gives a lot of depth of field, but I personally avoid it since it can soften pictures by diffraction. Others have good reason to disagree. I use f/14, which gives you more light. Focus on the vertex of the nearest eye and focus on the nearest feet, and don't worry about the rest being in focus.
ISO: 100. Wow! So no sensor noise. But that is very hard for indoor photography. You should be happy with ISO 200. I use ISO 400, usually, as that buys me a lot more light. I definitely get noise, but that can be reduced in post, followed by unsharp mask.

This is a male, and males will fly when they get riled up. So for this one you could photograph in a staged shot in front of a picture window that opens up to good light in the yard. This can give a natural looking but pleasingly out of focus background. Probably ISO 400, though. Pose on a cut off tree branch, and have the room light off. If it escapes, it should stay near the window since they head for the light. I do this even with actively flying insects, although it can be exhausting even so.

A nice big female won't fly. But they can jump and a landing on the hard floor would be fatal. That can be posed on a branch in the yard but not too high off the ground.

You might see this male again. It may turn up at night, with deeply black eyes, if you leave a porch light on. They often do this to get an easy meal from insects that were attracted.

sscnxy

Thanks Mark. I value your input always and keep your posts in my profile so I can go back and look up your ideas. I'll use your suggestions the next time I get to practice with a mantis. I agree it is an amazing little animal to know and appreciate.
NY

Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

When working with a tripod (there are +'s and -'s) with a short throw on your focus ring critical focusing will be easier with a simple focusing rail. Reasonable cost ($<30) ones are available on eBay.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Very nice.

napabob Loc: Napa CA

never tire of watching and shooting them, they are easy to feed with tweezers and a still moving critter, then they practically ignore you while they dismantle their prey

sscnxy

Thanks Don. I think I'll do that and start looking for a decent rail because tweaking the focus ring is just not precise enough, given how I like to do the best with what I have.

NY

sscnxy

Your ideas matter to me, Sippy, because you know this stuff!
Thanks looking at what I seek help with.

NMY

sscnxy

Thanks. Next time I get such a chance, I'll try the feeding trick and see if I can "catch it in the act."
Nifty variation on a theme, eh?

NMY