I like to simplify explanations if I can. Auto exposure averages the light the best it can. If you have very bright areas auto will try and do the job but over exposed areas or blown out areas have no data recorded to the sensor. In manual you can slightly underexpose the image to expose for the light area (sky in many cases) and with RAW you can adjust all areas you have pixels with data. No data captured nothing there to work with.
You might want to investigate lens adapters first. That is, if you still have your Canon lenses from your film cameras. There are adapters to mount them on Sony cameras. Old glass on digital is fun. Check it out.
If you are on a budget, get a set of extension tubes and use the lens you have. If you get a macro lens at some point you will still use the tubes to go better than 1 to 1.
I use LR for most editing. Affinity for tools I need and Nik for their great plugins.
You could pick up one of those pull behind shopping carts and take them all with you. Just saying...................
I read an article recently discussing a 50mm f1.4 vs buying a f1.8 lens. A point was made and I can't question it, was that a f1.4 will be manufactured to a much higher quality all the way around as reflected in it's much higher price. Glass and Mechanical tolerances and overall performance will be at the highest quality. Personally I love having f1.4 bokeh available when I want it.
I may be wrong, forgive me if I am. does the the d200 have a screw driver style motor drive focus in the camera? If not a newer camera in the D7100/7200 class and better will let you pick up great auto focus film era lenses which are in some cases excellent glass and are reasonable. No VR but great GAS fun.
You can get both wants satisfied with a used Manual Kiron / Lester Dine Macro 105mm Cult lens. You can find them on eBay and sometimes on KEH. Sharp lens all metal construction. If you go to the Macro section here at the hog you will see examples of great work as there are many photographers who shoot with this lens.
I got 8 and feel lucky not smart. Some were just gut calls.
If I go to a drag strip I want a fast lens..........................sorry the door was open.
I am not a lawyer (thank God) but I think if Nikon was to put film type software adjustments into their camera they would have to pay royalties to Kodak, Fugi, Agfa etc. just to use the product names which are trademarks. There is post processing software out there that does do just what you want. Also, we who know what film actually is and did are not their market much longer.
The histogram is a great tool if you take the time to learn what it does and then use it. I use it a lot when shooting with old Manual Ais Nikon lenses. It is a better meter than the old match needle internal light meter.
Just great! who has such time and patience to go through all those old movies to snip out those clips and piece it all together. such talent. They must be unemployed as well.
I like #2. It is slightly brighter and the driveway looks much more attractive.
Good Idea, then they could drop it into Dropbox and be able to access from their phone in the field.