Thank you, I believe that PPI can be different depending on camera and quality of images, my Fuji has 4 different quality settings images which vary in file size I agree you can’t change what your sensor sees but you can adjust what you use.And I have choosen the quality of my prints through programs for printing or forms for online. I enjoy your posts. Thank you.
My understanding is that you can shoot at a range of ppi, but you need a different range of dpi to print and another to publish at There are a couple of formulas to help you do this, or you can do it ,manually or use a program ie Az resize to do the math.
I think your approach is right. I would checkin the glass available for eeach camera, in both name and other brands,as i think good glass chosen well is more important than the camera, I happen to like th cannon line of lensesses so I would choose my camera based on that.There maybe a wrinkle like IBIs vs os. Good luck.
1 appreciate your __ rheumenation. I think that the individuality of photography occurs when each photographer decide how theywant to process and there aretamang type of photos and photographersto buttonhole.
No my humor is low it was pretty funny forgive me.
Xpatch wrote:
Not about money about best image quality. Learn before you quote badly:) action without knowledge is fruitless
What is your post processing insight? To help
Not about money about best image quality. Learn before you quote badly:) action without knowledge is fruitless
I just added a 30 day trial of topaz de noise time to Capture[ impor. Denoise has a very good rep, I shoot high iso wide open , with minimal flash so I want to try. It seems we can add a main program and then add plugins if the program is weak in some areas. For example capture [ co,or management is excellent, I would not do major changes but I might tweet with some of Fuji’s add on. Helicon Focus stacker is specialized and I use it occasionally;;y. Yo me the joy of a La caerte vs price prixe is why I moved From Adobe To my customized needs.
Reformat in camera i\. Insure compatibility. I have a back up program which quickly sends all my i,ages to Amazon, and capture 1 offers an automated backup on import,
I shoot with a Fuji and I have used the cloudy,preset, a 18 percent grey WB card, the palm of my hand (old school) and kelvin adjustment through live with to set WB. Also Suto There is also a light meter on my phony. Most day cloudy works, or 5500k. I like shooting WB in manual through live view. As i shot EAW and use Cspture one I am sort of indifferent to WB as is is all changeable in PP presets ,and I shoot through OVF, so I see it. And can compare to EVF with a flick I care more about tonal range and not loosing high and low light. I’d still like to be able to bracket or burst shoot wb.
You will never see daylight or be happier
I would not mess with firmware, and I think if you read the small print you are prohibited or it voids all warranties. sorry. Plat with the huge array of settings. I made a rudimentary estimate on Fuji x 100v and based on the number of choices, I think you have 10K plus setting combinations
This is my daily read snd source of a mixture of knowledge and intelligent opinion. I trust the info here and use all the parts of the sites. It’s the best conglomeration of photo knowledge I know.
Dont use digital zoom. The ppp has a lot more control.