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Sep 5, 2019 16:55:39   #
leftj wrote:
Actually you're fooling yourself. You can't tell the difference with the naked eye.


Be careful with that naked eye, you don't want to scratch it or have water splash on it... for me I use reading glasses because my naked eye would be useless without it.

I was thinking of upgrading to UV reading glasses as of late...
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Sep 5, 2019 16:46:37   #
Retina wrote:
The idea of being ready with a camera sounds good, but how often are we in reach of a camera and not have time to set the exposure in some way? I agree a point and shoot can be handy for the glove box, though these days a cell phone is just as useful for those rare scenes worth documenting on the spur of the moment. Occasionally when driving or walking I will encounter an unexpected scene that forces me to stop. But if I have that much time, I certainly have a few seconds to adjust the basic settings. In other words, the idea makes some sense but sounds more like a solution in search of a need.

Some of the responses make me wonder. Is using auto focus also considered unprofessional? Not that I am at risk for gaining that title, but some readers like to know the latest rules. I don't see this electronic feature dismissed as quickly as some of the others.
The idea of being ready with a camera sounds good,... (show quote)


I have caught so many shots within milliseconds with a Fuji X100F, and it is always is around my neck just for that reason... especially at an event or photo shoot.

In fact, I'm editing several dozen shots at the moment for two magazines that are gun and shoot style from the Fuji. Some of my best shot can be produced from this stealth camera at a moments notice.

I wanted to take a few minutes while editing to comment on that. The right camera for the right task is most important, Don't expect a big DLSR with a 6 pound 24-70 lens to be effective, especially out in the public.

I own several 1DX MKii's and a 5D Mk4, but rely on the Fuji X100f to be ready at a moments notice. That could be why so many Pro's own the X100f.

My recommendation is to go out and purchase a capable camera, and not argue the virtues of automatic settings on something that is out of it's element.
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Sep 5, 2019 08:29:43   #
And then,
... when you buy a new car, be sure to get the $1500 deluxe paint protector system... and don't forget the plastic seat covers.
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Sep 5, 2019 06:14:06   #
Najataagihe wrote:
Keep your camera on Auto-Everything as its standard stand-by configuration so you can get the grab shot.

Leave it that way, unless you have a good reason to change something.


I prefer something more point and shoot ready.

Instantly ready, and good for most anything is my X100f Fugi... You only need to turn it on, and move your feet to compose...

I like to see the eyebrows rise with confusion when I meet someone walking the streets with their arsenal hanging from their necks, and a 100lb back pack strapped to their backs...
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Sep 4, 2019 10:00:56   #
It will be very obvious at about page 16 of endless argument that UV filters are the cats #ss... even though no professional uses them...

Sure there are times... but wouldn't you think factory installed UV filers would be included in the box if there was any credibility.

The sermon ends with the same outcome each time, and that's why time sharing, life insurance for dogs, UV filters and vitamin pills for pet fish all have something in common...
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Sep 4, 2019 06:43:11   #
Gene51 wrote:
I have some lenses that can't have a screw-in front filter - 600mmF4, 150-600mm. 14-24 - I've damaged the front element on the 14-24 and it cost me $250 to get it fixed. I have dropped a 100-300 that had a filter attached - mangling the filter ring but not the lens. A camera bag strap failed another time and I dropped a 24-70 and an 80-200. both had filters, both had front element damage. It's a mixed bag - and Kool-Aid comes in many flavors. I feel safer with a front filter on - especially in inclement weather or in situations where the filter, not the lens, is exposed to the elements.

Tiffen is usually not a very highly rated filter - Hoya uses better glass and coatings. The premium brands use better glass and coatings, and metal rings. Enjoy the Kool Aid - pick a flavor you like - bottoms up!
I have some lenses that can't have a screw-in fron... (show quote)


... see what I mean, It get's fun
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Sep 4, 2019 06:32:12   #
Klipsch wrote:
Is this a problem that has been corrected? Has this topic been discussed in this forum already? I'm thinking about purchasing this model but am now having second thoughts.

Thanks for your input.


It is one of my best purchases I have ever made personally. The color, image quality, speed, low light performance and versatility are second to none. Dual possessor is a big deal when it comes to moving objects.

Oil? Just clean the sensor if that becomes a problem, but I see no issues.

I do shoot with the 5D MK4 also, but the the 1DX MkII is so much more... I see a huge advantage for the 1DX MKii in shadow detail, color cleanliness, especially in low light, plus the lack of a buffer at 16fps is amazing.

Do not hesitate, it has a rating of 500K on the shutter for a reason...

The benefit of a C fast card slot adds to the quickness, video and downloading.
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Sep 4, 2019 06:16:44   #
Silverrails wrote:
Go with Nikon, has much better Glass, ask others here their Opinions

... Your a funny guy
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Sep 4, 2019 06:08:51   #
This will be fun...

UV is an integrated part of all dlsr sensor designs.

UV filters are for element protection in bad weather. They could be just clear glass, but the manufacturers hype the grandeur with magical powers.

A hood is the best method for day to day protection. I do use gradient and polarize filters in 90% of my personal work, but that is necessary, and I see no degradation in sharpness from those. I doubt that you will notice any problems unless the filter is cheep plastic or off brand. Reflections and glare are the negatives.

Lens coatings are extremely robust so just clean the lens when needed... and that could be once a year, with mostly blowing off dust.

I destroyed a 24-70 with the shattered remains of a UV filter drop years ago and woke up, but many who have had a cup full of UV flavored kool Aid, will try their best to convince you of the absolute need and benefits.
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Sep 3, 2019 12:11:59   #
JeffDavidson wrote:
Or 8 X 12


If 8x10 is the needed size...

size it to best fit the 8x10 as a smart object rather than cropping it. That way you can go back and adjust the image if the print is not suitable, and the resolution is retained.
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Sep 3, 2019 11:14:30   #
1"= 96 pixels 8x10 is 768x 960, but that always ends up not quite in sync with your system.

To eliminate the oddities that most systems have, print anything as an 8x10 image and save the file. That way you use the actual image size that the printer produces.

Just take your produced image, then convert the image you want to print, into a smart object, reduce the opacity to size it over the test print you made and imported. Then increase the opacity to 100% and print a perfect 8x10.

By sizing as a smart object, you will get a perfect full size result at 300ppi. Save the image size information from what you have gained by doing this.

This works well for business cards and spacing multiple images also.
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Sep 3, 2019 06:51:28   #
calla wrote:
Ok....officially going crazy!!! I’ve been trying this last night & all day today with no luck!
I’m trying to resize a photo to print an 8x10. Shot with full frame camera, aspect ratio is 3:2. If I try to print 8x10 it crops photo so I’m losing body parts :-(
Thank you in advance for any direction, suggestions.


Your print sub menu will have options to fit, fill, fit to frame ect. check those, you most likely have the wrong setting.
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Aug 29, 2019 15:25:43   #
Architect1776 wrote:
Then my 6.5mp 10D should do total darkness wonderfully.


The SLR may be a better choice... I think those are single pixel
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Aug 29, 2019 15:17:48   #
Go for the window with natural light and use a reflector. experiment a bit.

If you plan on going with Jpeg then use portrait mode and/ or bring back the contrast a bit further.
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Aug 29, 2019 10:00:51   #
1DX Mkii is my personal choice for color and low light at 22 mpx, Detail could be argued for my the 5D MK4 at 36mpx... and then, my Fugi X100f at 24 mpx can do great job when least expected.

Pixel quality far outweighs pixel density in my opinion. Recent video's on youtube are claiming that the Fugi 100mpx has too much detail, and claim that portrait retouch artists hate it. Printing is one thing, but when is too much?
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