I have a camranger that works well with my older Canons. They have a smaller version that just came out. You can view the images and operate the camera from your iPhone or pad. I also have a Canon R. This camera and I think some of the newer Canon DSLRs allow you to operate the camera and view images on your iPad or iPhone. The only problem with this process is that it runs down your camera battery if you sta connected to the iPad for a long time.

I download my images to my computer after every shoot. I open my processing software (C1) to insure that the images are all on the computer. I wait a day for my automatic backup to back up the C1 catalog onto my backup hard drive, CrashPlan and Time Machine. Then I always reformat the card. I reformat to erase the images from the card and prepare the card for the next shoot. Reformatting completely erases the card leaving nothing to write over. Simply erasing the images eliminates the directory, but leaves the images to be written over.

You should bring your walking sticks. We went two years ago. My wife had both of her knees replaced and while some of the trails were smooth, walking on the lava was very uneven. She borrowed a walking stick from the boat and it made the trip much easier. I carried a 20L back pack that fit into a large dry bag for use on transfers on and off the boats. The water was smooth and I really did not need it, but if the water is rough you may want the dry bag. They can be easily packed and do not take up much space. You will not need anything longer than your 200mm on a crop camera. I would bring a wide angle lens. You can see some of my shots on my web page bweberphotographs.com. You will find a page on the Galapagos.

I use exposure compensation in tricky light situations. I use exposure compensation in conjunction with the histogram. I can change the exposure slightly to prevent the histogram from clipping one side or the other thus preserving all of the data I will need for post processing my RAW files.

I made a quick review of all of the responses to this post. None of the many responses point out that the 24 - 105 L is a fixed F4 lens while the other lens is not. I did not look up the specs on that lens, but I think it stops down to at least 5.6 and the end of the zoom. so aside from the better build quality and much sharper lens the 24 - 105 provides fixed F4 lens.

He has also published an excellent book entitled "The Speedliter's Handbook". This is my go to guide for any lighting problem I encounter when using one or multiple speedlites.

I find that the problem with "color neutrality" is that tries to render everything in neutral light. When I shoot sunset or sunrises or any image with different quality of sunlight, my goals is for my image to reflect the light I see. I do not want "neutral light". This is why I rarely use reference cards or an expo disc. I want the the image to show the light I am trying to capture when I press the shutter.

I have done it and it is very easy and helpful in settings with miltiple light sources.

I always shoot RAW. I find the auto white balance my Canons is a very good starting point, and if necessary I can adjust white balance in Capture One. I prefer to use my eye for those adjustments instead of a white balance tool. Capture One allows me to adjust white balance in separate layers. This allows me to adjust the light balance if there are multiple light sources in the same frame, such as bright sunlight and shadows, or sunlight coming through a window and interior lights in part of the frame.

I have the Giotto 8384 tripod and never noticed this adjuster. So... I just experimented with that knob and discovered that if you fully extend the tube that knob allows you to rotate the fully extend tube. You can also use this feature when you extend and tilt the tube. It does not work if the tube is not fully extended as the tube blocks this rotation. I think the best use for this form of rotation is when the tube is extend and tilted and you do not want to rotate the head.

I never use filters on sunsets or sunrises. They change the mood I am looking for. I have attached a sunset I took on Cape Cod recently, and one I took in Key West. No filters, cropped and processed with C1 Pro.

Kodak has a service that will digitize your slides. Check with the about the cost. I think it is reasonable. I looked into it briefly, but the do not handle 6 x 7 slides.

If the Tripod is going to be used in your studio and you are not carrying it any where I would not waste your money on Carbon Fiber. I would spend the extra money on Carbon Fibre if you are carrying the tripod to most of your shoots. Most of the major manufacturers make high quality Aluminum tripods that will meet your purposes. You want one that will reach the required height with as little of the center column exposed as possible. I also suggest you purchase a "L" bracket. You will be shooting many vertical portraits and you want the camera centered on the tripod. High quality custom L brackets are available from Kirk and Really Right Stuff.

I sold cameras to in the seventies. I used to tell customers - you are spending a lot of money on this camera. As long as you are choosing a quality brand, make a camera you feel good about using and carrying around. It has to feel right in your hands, not some technical reviewers.

I think the ExpoDisc is primarily intended to set white balance. I have used various white balance tools and I have not found them helpful for anything except simple lighting situations. and these are well handled by the auto white balance on my cameras. I alway shoot RAW so I can set white balance that will enhance some of the unusual lighting I see in my landscapes. However those pictures are easier to handle if they are properly exposed. A good light meter will handle the exposure properly.