This describes my technique closely as a busy real estate photographer, except for the tilt shift lens and pole. I do vary the Iso between 125 and 400, aperture usually 7.1 indoors and 9-16 outside. Companies do the pp, however for one company I bracket 3 for exteriors in aperture priority mode and merge with photomatix using natural fusion setting, no tone mapping. This works well for interiors in rooms with darker interiors and bright windows, or anywhere I want a more premium result. I don't let the underexposed image get too dark, just enough to pull a window view. Too dark or using tone mapping can cause shadows, muddy uneven walls and ceilings. The shutter speed varies greatly on manual shots with ttl bounced flash. This is not Architectural Digest, but agents are very pleased with the photographs at the competitive price points. It is fairly high volume for me, but does not feel like work as it is so enjoyable. May upgrade to full frame in future but really not needed for this. I use Nikon D7100, Nikon 10-24 mm and sb700 speedlight with included diffuser, Manfrotto tripod with 410jr geared head.
DavidPine wrote:
I have found this topic interesting because I retired from shooting RE and architecture. From my experience, the subject property more or less demands how you are going to shoot it. HDR, strobe(s), shims, or a mix (flambient). Also, what you are being paid for the amount of time and effort you require to do the job. I don't like blown-out windows that are prevalent on architectural shoots but sometimes they are appropriate even on RE shoots. You are telling a story of a home and you are to convey a feeling that will attract someone to wish to preview it in person. Images are a hook and nothing more. The reason houses with excellent photographs sell quicker is because they often get more personal viewings. The key image, in my opinion, is the elevation image. The front of the house. Buyers often drive neighborhoods looking – they can't see inside but how the house looks from the outside often attracts them. The same applies to someone seeing a flyer, MLS image, facebook image or, newspaper image. That's about a 3 second hook to get them to look further. Some people shoot the interior to make it look huge. I have found that 18mm to 35mm works great. I usually shot a room using two points and always attempted to show a window (not blown). Sometimes a single point image works well. I seldom shot a room without having all the lights on. I have moved lightbulbs around when they messed up the white balance. I used mostly bounce flash because it worked well for me in most instances. I used f/7.1, ISO 320 and a shutter speed that varied greatly depending on the ambient light (1/30 to 1/200) and manual mode. If I had an entire shoot HDR I would use Aperture priority and 3 shots on 2 steps. I mostly did that for play and so I wouldn't be in a rut.Don't get set on "one-way-is-right". You may have to use all the techniques on a shoot so learn them all. I only shot swimming pools off-hand. I used a good carbon tripod and a geared Manfroto head. I used tilt-shift often but mostly a Nikon 14-24 f/2.8. Elevations I would often use a 24mm tilt-shift or a Nikon 24-70 f/2.8. I have used pole mounted cameras and I often had a tripod mounted on a hard surfaced deck mounted on my truck bed. That would give me 7' to 9' elevation.
I have found this topic interesting because I reti... (
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